survivalshop

It reads to display till 8/22/11

That could be why DPMS lowered there 308 upper receivers rail height. You can adj. the front front sight ,because the difference is not very much . Some make sure they use the "F" marked front sight assembly . As far as a BUIS is concerned , if using both front & rear , they work as stated above , you just have to sight them in . Of course if you are using a railed gas block & put a BUIS on it , the rear sight has to be comparable .

The reason I'm interested is how that length bbl. will perform. There are reasons bbls. are kept at certain lengths , but its not writen in stone .

The 60 looks practical , but hay ,can't go wrong with 100 ,as long as it works, that is .

Well, ya just need to barrow one or take it some where ,we need photos for the team here. <thumbsup>

I don't see anything in the photo ! <laughs> Nice rifle & can't wait to hear how a 21 " bbl. shoots.

I use Brownells 44/40,for more years than I care to admit . Just make sure when you cold blue anything , to oil it ,a lot , it will soak the oil up ,some times for a couple of days. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1112/Product/FORMULA_44_40_reg__INSTANT_GUN_BLUE

I'll take a photo of the cover .

Probably not the mag., but check for burr's & smoothness of the inner part of the feed lips. Have you tried other manufactures mags.? Run this rifle wet with lube ,everything but the chamber.

Yep , cold blue. Some things need to be fitted to these rifles .

Might be worth a call to them.

It is great you found this sight helpful. My M1 has a Birch stock & was made in Dec.,1943 .I think I have the sight ,you can look that up , some where. I still shoot her once in a while , she gets lonely in the safe ,just telling war stories to my AR's , but sits next my 1903A3 , I'll bet they have a lot to talk about . <thumbsup>

I looked on the ballistic tables in the back of my Hornady reloading manual( third edition ) & it gives a lot of good info on bullet drop for a specific cal./bullet . It has nothing on 175 gr. ,but it does have info on 168,165,&180 . You look at the velocity at the muzzle & it will give some good info on drop & sight in . Of course its mostly theory ,but gives you some where to start or think about . I also checked my Speer & Sierra manuals & they both have them also. Mine manuals are old , not sure if new ones have the tables in the back any more . They should .

Magpul gen II , BUIS, Bushnell 1.5x4.5x 38 & they don't fit under my extra high Burris Tactical rings for my Millet TRS1. Yes both scopes are too big to put them under, probably because how far back they are for me to get a good sighting ,but I would not use them any way ,its not like the mounts are quick release ,so for me the buis is not needed with these scopes . Now, most of the CQB scope types ,there would be room & I would use a quick release mount.

Its called the Treasury edition & its the best of 2010 articles . Not sure if you will get it with a subscription . The cover is silver & mostly color pages. I can take a photo of it .I got it at a book store.

If you have a chance to look at the big anniversary edition of the shotgun news(its been out for a couple of weeks already ) . Its got two articles about making an AR type rifle more actuate .(worth the cost of the paper ) While there are a couple of things I don't agree with the Arthur's , they have a wealth of info , that you can try out

Shooting 200 yd. range, there will be many factors , You will get more drop with any heavy bullet , but also the heavy bullets generally fly better at extended range . You can look up any bullet weight /vol/range to see what drop it will have. Check this sight out. http://handloads.com/calc/ To the left you can calculate the BC if you don't know it .I put in a 175 & 1400 fps(MV) & it came out at about 40" drop @ 200 yrd . but that was just an example . I have a Smith Enterprises brake on my 16" 300BLK . They make two different brakes in .308 , I picked the shorter one ,because I wanted to keep OL as short as possable. It works real well , so much so I may change the Vltor on my 16" 308.

You can sight the rifle in for any one of the test rounds & it really doesn't matter where the others group on the target . Once you pick the bullet weight & charge you want or that suites your needs ,re sight the rifle for that one . They won't be that far off . The 135MK's I'm using now shoot about 2" higher than the 125 TNT's @ 100 yrds. . Might have something to do with BC of the 135MK bullet . COL may change things up also. I was surprised that a heaver bullet shot higher than a faster lighter one myself. I dumped a twenty rd. mag. just to make sure the rifle was OK & this cartridge is very quick on return target acquisition.

I remembered to bring mags yesterday for the range & I really like this trigger . I could only shoot on the 50 yrd. range because of the PD had the 100 yrd. range ,but one hole group , just amazing .

Went to the range with a new Burris mount & some more 135 MK loads & have to say the Burris mount makes all the difference in the world . The too low rings make sighting difficult to say the least. I could only use the 50 yrd. range so I won't post ant targets ,but this load is pretty close to the one I want . With a better trigger ,It will be a very good performer . I probably had a 1/2 " group at 50 yrds' & really wasn't trying very hard , I was using the chrono to test this load. AVG. VOL. --2080 ES----------92 SD ---------30 The Extreme Spread , I'm going to have to work on, not sure why its up that high . could be a lot of things including how the Chrono is reading the bullet . The Standard Deviation is not bad , kinda makes the ES worthless. This ammo was with Rem. ACC BLK primed brass, 17.5 gr. ,H110, 2.110 OAL. Loaded on a Dillon 550B with Forster bench rest die set.

Awesome , I like your hand guard, it shouldn't be pretty any way . Look in the 300BLK loading ,I put some chrono results with the 135MK's.

Took both the 20"DPMS & 16" CMMG to the range yesterday & switched uppers around to test The magpul mags. Put the 20" DPMS upper on the CMMG lower ,installed a 20 rd. Magpul mag & it fired about two rounds & had bolt over FTF. Reinserted the mag & it fired one rd. & same thing . Put a 20rd. Cproducts & dumped the entire mag, no problems . Inserted a 19 rd. DPMS mag ,dumped all 19 with out a hitch. Put the 16" upper (SI Defence upper receiver ) back on the CMMG lower . 20rd. Magpul , FTF first rd. ,got it to feed a round & had bolt over FTF second round . Installed 20rd. CProducts mag , dumped all twenty with out a problem . Installed a 19 rd. DPMS mag & dumped all 19 with out a problem . All ammo used was milspec XM80C. I just had to test this ,even though I knew what the out come would be before hand , but hay, ya don't really know till you try it . Note : And by the way , the Magpul worked fine in the DPMS 20" all back together.

I just put a Burris PEPR on my 300BLK . Its the second one I have & makes the sight picture perfact for me ,but I have my scopes so far back (maybe my old eyes ) that I can't get any BUIS under them . Just doesn't matter what mount or rings I use.

Instruction read " use standard armorers wrench to apply 50-80 foot-pounds of torque as necessary to alien the lock nut to gas tube channel. " . I think I used a YH wrench on mine & I made mine flush with the upper receiver ,no loc tight. Has to be fitted that way . I didn't like the gap .

I think they have the Hornady 300 Whisper with 110 VMax also. It will shoot in a 300BLK with no problems. I'm rolling my own, but the availability of factory ammo is a good source of brass & you get the fun of shooting it and comparing it to your reloads. Cutting that 5.56/.223 stuff down is time consuming , easy ,but it takes a little more time.