Tripledeuce

I haden't thought of the Kimber, as around here, they go VERY dear! Had a marlin 2000 with the original McMillen stock, didn't shoot it much, to heavy. Sold it to one of our 4-h junior shooters. Had a 77/22, somehow I just could not "warm" to it. Have a 10-22 all original in the safe, 200th year model. Hasn't been out of the safe in almost 20 years. Been thinking of a 10-22 with a carbon fibor bbl, but keep thinking back to shooting rabbits at 200 yards with my old Win 75. Now, THAT was fun!!! Ever try to find one of the "old" Winchesters or remington bolt guns, recently??? Scarcer than hens teeth, unless you spend rediculous. Respectfully Terry

Personally, I don't really think that there is a "good" 22 sporter out there, anymore. The Marlin 2000 was a good gun, also the "old" Remington 541 delux. or the older Winchester, don't rember the model. I'v been pondering this myself, latley. Respectfully Terry

An extractor ripping a rim off is indiditive of a hot load, or a rough chamber, or a gas problem. As a gunsmith, the first thing "I" would do is a through cleaning, followed by a bore scope check of the chamber, a chamber cast, followed by either a slight reaming of the chamber( my DPMS 260 chamber was slightly "out of speck" and to tight on the body, took a finger turning of the chambering reamer to bring it up to speck. Then a chamber polish, followed by test firing with "good" ammo,then the CBC. Also, I would check the gas port size, and, if over gassed ,install an adjustable as block. I would polish and de-burr the extractor. Not much, just a quick polish. I'm still learning AR's, but ,with 50 years of professional gunsmithing, this is here I would start. Respectfully Terry

2:30pm, found 5 boxes of Federal 9mm ball on the shelf at wallyworld. $13,95 a box! Terry

I think that this has to be one of the ideosyncontes commen to the AR. In the late '60's an through the 70's I sold and re-loaded for a number of Winchester 88's and 100's. All loads were at, or somestimes over "the book" max. Especially with the 284 ctg. Some of those projectiles got stuffed WAY down in the case, both levering the 88, and self loading the 100. None, when fired, showed any more pressure signs than did "the normal" rounds. Again, I accept as fact that you have seen it personally, and it does happen with AR's. if you do say so. Altough I'v got 50 years of professional gunsmithing experience, I still have a LOT to learn about AR's I have already learned that "normal" reloading practices do not always work with the AR. Thank you for expanding my education. Terry

Friend 98v5z, respectfully, HOW? can a set back bullet ruin your day, and rifle? Ruin a group, yes, but I'v seen many deep seated bullets shot, and not one ruined a rifle. Respectfully Terry

I, personally do not crimp. But I make sure I have suffecient neck tension to hold the bullett. I,also, personally use small base dies on all my semi autos, as all chambers are not the same. Respectfully Terry

The chamber on my DPMS 260 Rem. was "withen Specs", but a match grade chamber removed several thousandths from the body of the chamber. Reamer was dropped into the chamber, and turned by hand. Full length sizing is NOT the same as using a small base sizer die. I would reccomed a chamber cast, and carefull miking of it and the fired brass. Respectfully Terry

Try cleaning the bolt lock really well. also, run a reamer/drill ( by HAND) through the gas port, just enough to clean the carbon, not to open it up. Respectfully Terry

We got ours last week. Respectfully Terry

I use the Hornady "one shot", great stuff for most reloading!!!!! I use it for everything except case forming. respectfully Terry

I love the 165's in the 308! Respectfully Terry

What brand and size primers? What load in each? The wolf takes large pistol mag. Respectfully Terry

I got my start in professional gunsmithing, 50 years ago, building 1911's!!! Things were a lot different, then! I used to refer the genunine "Colt" 1911 as the best do it yourself kit on the market. A lot of the new guns are better than the "custom" jobs of years ago. Just the result of tighter tolerences, and the factorys introducing many of our old "custom" features as modern "from the factory" jobs. Yes, you can still build a great gun, but figgure 80-100 hours on it. Almost ALL hand work, though some will be taking a dremmil tool to things that should be done by hand. I'm not trying to talk you our of it. But it is considerably more than assembling a AR. I can build an AR from "parts" in a couple of hours. A 1911 will take , depending on the parts, two FULL working days, to a couple of WEEKS, full time. I'm currently working on an 80% lower. I HOPE it will be as accurate as my KImber. Slide to frame fit is only important in shooting the gun from a mechanical rest. If you sight each shot, its all in the bbl, slide fit! This has gone on long enough, In fact, numerious BOOKS have been written on the subject. Just rember, in the end, you will probably spend as much in jigs and tools as you do in parts, that is, if you want to do it right. Its not out of your league, but it is work. Respectfully Terry

In all probability, the "problem" was the bolt being partialy engagued when firing. Pull the bolt all the way out, the gun works, Terry

Sorry, brain dead.

And, Berdan primers come in a varaity of sizes!!!! What size were you ordering? Respectfully Terry

In the 1950's my dad had a part time job as a gunsmith. In the 60's my younger brother and I found a couple of Italian Carcanos that he had stuck away. We had a limited amount of factory ammo, and imagine our suprise when we went to reload them and found berdan primers!!! Well, we took an ice pick, and pried the old primers out, and with a electric hand drill, drilled out the post from the cases, forming a flash hole, while getting rid of the berdan post. Then we used a Lyman primer pocket reamer to remove the crimp, and open the primer pocket to "standard" dia and depth as the berdan primers were slightly smaller than the regular primers. Loaded those suckers up I don't know how many times!!!LOL!!!! Of course, we held the cases in our hands while doing all this to them.LOL!! I'd do it a little differently, now! Respectfully Terry

#1 on my list would be Brownells DVD on how to build an AR. Respectfully Terry

Thank you! I try to give practical advice, when I give any at all. Being in the retail gun business for @50 years does give me some experience. The reason I mention mention my years of experience is so other members will know I'm not some newbe spoutig. Thries". Another thing I have first hand knowledge of is the difference between Brownnels oxy7 and Dulite. Two completly different bluing chemicals. The Oxy7 will remove ALL copper fouling from a bbl. Duelite will not remove ANY copper. Respectfully Terry

When I had my gunshop open to the public, We Blued every week. The final tank contained 5 gal of wd40. As we added guns, it would heat up to well over 175*. We left the guns in it over the weekend, and wiped them and put them together on Tuesday Morning. The bluing seemed deeper in color, and much more resistant to scratches! Also, our customers said that the guns seemed much more resistant to rust. I don't blue any more, but when I have one done. the first thing I do when I get it back from the bluer is heat a tank of wd40 to 175, put the gun in it for 48 hours, and then wipe it off and put it together. Haven't had anything rust in 40 years, LOL!! Respectfully Terry

The RCBS Rockchucker combo is hard to beat!!!! Had one since 1971. It still gets used, even with a RCBS Big Max( a really heavy duty single stage press) and TWO progressives. Respectfully Terry

I'm lucky! I don't EVER have to worry about buying a tgun!!!! My wife buys more than me.LOL!!! The "true" 1911 is over a hundred years old. And look who is copying it!!!! EVERYBODY!!!!!!! If I were buying anything but a genuine Colt, or Kimber, I think I'd get the Sig. I guess you either like the 40 or don't. Wife and I tried both, and didn't care for it in any of the 4 guns we tried. Give me the good old .45acp any day!!! Respectfully Terry

" If all else fails, read these instructions", That used to be printer on ALL Beauhler scope rings. Mea-culpa Terry

I have a DPMS bbl on my lar8 and a dpms bolt. I would guess that the buffer tube would be interchangeble. What do you mean by "reciever extension???? Do you mean the bbl extension? in which case its yes. Or the bolt carrier? in which case is a no. Respectfully Terry