Matt.Cross

Moved it to the clubhouse...

Welcome to the forums! To edgecrusher's point, the semantics of AR10 vs. 308 AR is important when you're trying to set up your build. There are two primary or somewhat standard versions, DPMS/SR-25 type and Armalite which is the AR10. There are other outlying brands with proprietary formats, but aftermarket parts for those brands either rare, custom made, or nonexistent. Armalite and DPMS both make 308 ARs, but only Armalite makes an AR10. Knowing the difference will save you a lot of trouble, trust me.

Thanks man, I'm nominating you for sainthood. <thumbsup>

I've got mixed feelings about it, I really don't want him to have a good experience with them, I'll feel all the more cheated. >:D

The main thing is ask any questions that cross your mind. We've answered lots of them for others, and the only stupid ones are the ones that hurt you because you didn't ask. So delve in and we'll help you every way we can. <thumbsup>

Sounds good so far with possibly an exception or so. What kind of hunting are you planning to do? The reason I'm asking, is because you want rigidity for an 800+ rig, and rigidity means weight, which means you're packing more weight when hunting. As for lethality at 800+ yards, you're going to be quite limited with the bullet weights that will get you out there and weight concerns might limit your accuracy at that distance. Bottom line, you might have to choose whether you want a distance rig or a closer range rig that won't kill you to carry on the hunt. Welcome to the forums BTW... :)

Welcome to the forums! Thanks for the info.

Thanks for reading up and then posting your question, that's very sensible. :) You can use a DPMS bolt in an Armalite bolt carrier and vice versa, however you CANNOT mix bolts and barrels. Armalite bolts will only match AR10 type barrels, and DPMS bolts only match LR308/SR-25 type barrels. Use carriers interchangeably, but bolt type must match barrel type.

Being that the 2nd stage is where the shot breaks and therefore the critical stage, the 1st shouldn't cause much concern IF you can clearly feel where it ends. Is it rough enough that can't feel where the first ends and the second begins?

An enabler, HERE??? Are you crazy? You've got a better chance of involvement in a snowball fight in hell.... LMAO

Well, I bought my paint yesterday. Going for Midnight Metallic Blue w/ Gold stripes and Gold rim accents. Before and after pics to follow soon...

I've heard that some precision shooters like to loc-tite their barrels into the upper, but to be completely honest it seems more important to have the receiver face and barrel extension shoulders squared with each other for maximum surface contact. Also, the barrel nut being squared similarly to the front shoulder of the barrel extension for maximal contact & rigidity. Get those things right along with barrel nut torque and you'll have a hole-stacker for sure.

Definitely. <laughs> Old me -> :wub: New me -> :bitchslap:

I echo this sentiment. In my humble experience, person behind the gun notwithstanding, the barrel and trigger are going to be the keys to what kind of accuracy you will get.

Glad to hear it brother. Honestly, I've never taken issue with the quality of their product, everyone I know that has one says they are fantastic barrels and I don't doubt them for a minute. At this point, if they hadn't dealt with me in the manner that they did, I would buy blanks from them and simply complete my own barrels, but even that is out of the question. I honestly wouldn't piss on Woody if his guts were on fire.

ROFLMAO

Ditto. I hate BATFE regs.

It's almost perfect, just needs an Ops Inc 12th and you're all set!

That last comment I quoted wasn't directed at you specifically, it has long been common here to see complaints from members who bought knock-offs on FleaBay. Being that it is a company that doesn't support 2nd Amendment rights is the first reason I don't buy off Ebay, the successive reasons are the ones Tom already mentioned. It's hard to go wrong buying from reputable sellers/manufacturers.

I'm collecting Fossil Tri-Chrono type watches, they're pretty nice and you don't have to feel bad about beating them up.

FDE seems doable, hmmmm....

Welcome to the forums, make yourself right at home.

From a business standpoint, just because it's a good idea doesn't mean it will be popular. Businesses usually sell what sells well.

The shop does guarantee their work, and their work looks amazing.

Alright fellas, it's time to get my personal pickup some body work and a new paintjob from head to toe so to speak. Right now I've got a quote for the body work and full paint job + rim accents for $2k. The body work consists of pulling two minor dents and taking care of various deep scratches & scrapes. The paint work is the aforementioned bumper-to-bumper job plus some rim accents to make those wheels pop with the paint scheme. The paint in question is PPG Omni Plus. Anyone care to make suggestions or comments on the pricing & materials?