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Robocop1051

Promotions Director
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Everything posted by Robocop1051

  1. Up to 2000 yards. Variable. First focal plane. Mil dot. and..... Go! Please don't kill my wallet. I have three kids to feed.... and a wife who can only tolerate my nonsense so much.
  2. Definitely go with the Oracle. +1 to what JT said.
  3. Lol. Killshot hasn't logged in since 2012
  4. Too soon?
  5. What do you guys think about wasting Steel case ammo for function testing rifles? My latest build needs to get TORTURED and I'm debated on how I want to go about this. The way I see it, I have three choices: 1. Steel (TulAmmo, Wolf, etc) @ $0.35pr 2. Remanufactured brass $0.45pr 3. Inexpensive bulk brass $0.60pr This is NOT for accuracy. This is just for putting a new rifle through the motions and getting some wear on the parts. Part of me says go cheap, but I worry about the quality of steel ammo. I need consistency in the loads to make sure I'm adjusting the rifle properly. Should I trust the cheap stuff?
  6. Wasn't it YOU who said people should be required to have a license to own a Dremmel?? Honestly though... worlds greatest invention!!!
  7. They still have elevation at the front. is a rear elevation really that much of a difference?
  8. You have a very accurate format to start with. Like a fixer home, you have good bones to work with. You shouldn't have to change much to sqeeze a little more out of it. A trigger ALWAYS helps. There are several flavors to choose from, and everyone has different tastes. You can't go wrong with Geissele, Jard, Timney, CMC... But there are plenty of others as well. Ditch the muzzle device and get a decent brake. You won't make many new friends at the range, but it'll take some of the bit out of the recoil, which may eliminate any unseen flinching. Update your recoil assembly (buffer, and buffer spring). You can go heavy with an upgraded spring, or go with a JP SCS. Either will make the rifle shoot a lot softer. That' about all I can think of for an SASS. It's one of their better off the shelf rifles. I'd be more concerned with shedding weight than trying to squeeze a marginal amount of accuracy out of it.... But if weight was an issue, you wouldn't have bought the SASS.
  9. I'd go up to 0.099 and then depend on the adjustable gas block if needed. The gas block is at 0.125, so going to .099 still leaves plenty of room. #40 or #39 standard drill bit should suffice. A 7/64" should suffice if you can't find the others.
  10. The spring should definitely be the heavier .308 spring. I recommend the Armalite AR10 spring or the Tubb flat wire spring. It's not so much about absorbing the recoil, as much as it it is to drive the BCG back into battery. If the spring is too light, you'll get issues stripping a round from the mag and putting one in the pipe. Especially with a full/new mag.
  11. I've been torn between the Bk9 and the Tahoma. If I had the BK9 blade on the Tahoma handle, I'd never buy another knife again.
  12. Daddy like!
  13. Don't get me wrong. I have both SS and CMV, but they have much different shooting purposes.
  14. SS barrels are really only more accurate if you're stretching the maximum out of the cartridge. At sub-500, you'll get very minimal performance change. SS also wears faster than a quality CMV barrel with a quality melonite finish, by almost double... 7k rounds vs maybe 4k rounds. I think is was Faxon or Criterion that wrote a great article on how "less expensive" doesn't mean "less quality". They point out that melonite (in any of its forms) is exponentially better than chrome lining, in longevity and performance, AND it costs less to apply it. Utilizing the benefits of modern technology reduces costs and increases the quality of he product. So an SS barrel is technically more accurate, but will you be able to take advantage of that with what you are doing? A high quality CMV barrels is likely more accurate than 90% of the people who use it.
  15. I miss having @Jgun around. He was a smart guy. (This is for 300Blk, but the concept is similar)
  16. I also remember an old member loading Sierra 125gr flat bottom proj's and getting nearly 2600 fps in his 300Blk. I'm pretty sure Hornady makes one too.
  17. So reading up... I guess it doesn't matter much. a .308 proj in a Russian SAAMI barrel (and vise versa) might only be off by .001 in actual measurement. It looks like POF and Faxon are already prepping for this by making all their barrels slightly undersized. Giving optimal performance to SAAMI cartridges, and damn good performance on .308x39 hand loads.
  18. Let me try to find some source material... i met a guy who actually has a .308x39 chambered barrel, and he hand loads brass x39 casings with .308 projectiles. To my recollection, he's getting 1MOA or better. Ill find my info and bring it back here.
  19. I'm not moving this… I'm leaving it right here so everybody can see it, and I'm locking it out.
  20. Not all receiver extensions are created equal either. The A2 extension being the longest, the Vltor A5 and the Armalite AR-10 being the next longest, and the AR-15 being the shortest. There are even shorter tubes, but I haven't seen one or heard of one that'll work on a .308. The size and style of your buffer doesn't necessarily determine your gas system, but the two do effect each other and may require "tweaking". This is especially true with the .308. Generally this is done with buffer weights or controlling the gas flow in the system. You can have any length barrel and gas combination you desire. Normally I like to put the longest possible gas system on a barrel. That gives me a rifle length gas system (DPMS and Armalite have different lengths) on a 16" barrel, a mid length gas system on a 12.5"-14.5" barrel, a carbine gas port on a +10.5" barrel, and pistol length gas on everything else. Barrel length and gas length ratio will determine the size of the required gas port, to a max diameter of 0.125" (or 1/8"). For example, on my personal .308 rifle... I have a 17" barrel with a rifle length gas port, drilled to .099". I am using an entry length (carbine length without adjustment holes) extension with a carbine 10 oz. heavy buffer and a Tubb AR10 flat wire spring.
  21. Buffer tube (the proper name is "receiver extension") length only dictates what stocks you can use and which buffer/spring combo you need.
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