98Z5V

For function, the billet set has an additional feature - bolt release on the right side. Billet is about asthetics - it looks damn nice. Other than the integrated ambi bolt release, it's the same as running a regular forged set. I got the 31st set made, so that's pretty cool. It turned into a damn nice rifle. Spike's billet set build details in this thread:

NY Strip went down tonight. I was so damn excited to fire it up on this thing that I forget to snatch a pic of them when they were done... <lmao> This thing ROCKS!

Damn, just saw this - I'll dig around for it and try to find the info again. EDIT - tucson308 was the member that made the bolts, and has the dimensions. I searched his posts and didn't find the pic, though. Robocop was the member that sent the bolt to him to base his measurements from, and I think it was Robocop that posted the "dimensions drawing..." I can't remember for sure, now. Pretty sure it went down that way...

WASH!!! <lmao> Finally picked up a new grill today - Char Broil Classic 6-burner with warmer. It gets it's maiden voyage tonight!

If you're running this ammo through a semi-auto, make cure it has some kind of crimp on it, roll-crimp, taper-crimp, whatever. If they're completely UNcrimped, you will have bullet setback sometime. You will. When the projo gets pushed back in the case, the pressures go up...

I'd think that sizing them smaller would increase pressures - sizing the OD slightly smaller, with wall thickness remaining the same - that MUST reduce case capacity, even a little. Might be able to FL size some, run other through the SB die, and measure case capacity. If the numbers are different, that's the easy answer - I think?

That's easy - seriously. It's time consuming, and you have to stay very alert for it, but... All you do is follow each step every single time. *Make sure every case is trimmed to the same length, and sort those suckers by weight. Consistent cases. *Hand seat all your primers. Go for the exact same "feel" or pressure to seat them, and don't overseat them. If one doesn't feel right, or takes more pressure to seat, that case goes into the "Range Ammo" pile. It's not used for precision loading. *Measure every single powder drop. Every one. *Seat every bullet to the same depth. *Measure the OAL once loaded. If one is shorter, don't mix it in with the rest when you're going for accuracy on targets. It won't run the same, and will impact differently. If one is longer, no big deal - seat it deeper. Literally, that's it, in a nutshell. When loading for precision, you want every single one that you make to be like all the others. It's about consistency. Coming UP with the load is a different subject.

I'd say run the hat, Larry - nothing at all wrong with that. It's people that will toss on a USMC cap, then hang a Navy Cross, Bronze Star, Purple Heart on the side of it, or some $hit like that... :bat:

Double-check the loaded length of those - see it they're even mag-length. If they're too long, you'll have to remove the tip on the projectile, or fire them from a bolt gun.

TactiCat does NOT know what to think of the giant desert toad... <lmao>

He's got some GREAT videos - make sure you check them all out. There's a couple that are SEAL vs Ranger, and the $hit is hilarious!!! <lmao>

EDIT - $HIT! I lost a whole response in this one! :rant2:

Loose barrel will DEFINITELY cause that, brother. Check out the post from survivalshop on diagnosing his buddy's CMMG rifle with a loose barrel nut...

On .45 ACP 1911s, I carry it with a round in the chamber, hammer back, thumb safety up (on). But that's on the .45. The .22LR is different, so I don't know on that one. For muscle memory and ergonomics, it's a hell of alot easier to drop the safety lever down than it is to pull the hammer back. Just in the manner of drawing the weapon, your thumb is already in place for the safety lever - not so much for the hammer-pulling. That equals extra movement. You don't want extra movement, if you need the weapon. Minimize as much as you can. Simple tasks.

That IS some funny $hit!!! <lmao>

Lot of it has to do with "demilling" for importation of foreign weapons. Certain things you have to do to them to bring them into the country.

I've got a couple Spike's forged lowers, a couple of their BCGs, then their billet upper/lower set and a Big A$$ Rail. They do put out quality stuff. <thumbsup>

Average... over the string. And, she's a sponsored 3-Gunner. I'd like to see the shots on a timer, check out all the splits, from a normal human being... <lmao> Both vids that were on that FB page were sponsored 3-Gunners, and you could definitely hear the rate of fire slow down on that one guy. That's why I want to look at each split. $hit, I'll just buy a Hiperfire 24C competition trigger and run a vid myself. Right beside a S3G vid. I'll determine which one can be shot faster by a mere mortal, about as equal as all things can be equal. I'll run both in the same rifle. Just got another good paycheck - trigger will be ordered soon. After I run it, I'll decide whether I'm keeping it and putting it in something, or if it's going to the FS section here. <dontknow>

Damn. We missed BIG TIME!!! <lmao>

That's a BIG BEER!!! I'll bet the little smarta$s can't chug the whole thing... <lmao>

...aaaaaaand I'll be working tomorrow... :'(

This kinda stuff makes my blood boil. 'Nuff said.

Nah, brother - I got the tip from ya, but I haven't had the time to drag my a$s over there yet. I missed out, too... <lmao> You know who I'll be going through for powder now. <thumbsup>

RIGHT ON! Welcome from AZ - let us know where you're at. Really? You're gonna call it "a few" times? Eff it, I'm moving into your back yard... <lmao>

11.5" barrel w/ A2 flash suppressor is exactly 20" OAL, from the back of the upper receiver. Charging handle and forward assist stick back a little more, but I measured to the back of the receiver.