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I've been wanting one of these triggers for a pretty long time, even though I'm hooked on the Jard triggers. <dontknow> I've got a Super 3 Gun (S3G) on the way, and it should be at my doorstep next Wednesday. I'll shoot it next Sunday. Can't wait to try it out. <thumbsup>

Putting a .223 BUIS on a .308 AR isn't going to harm a thing, nor change a thing. It'll work just like a straight-up fixed iron sight setup on the .308. It's up to you to zero them at whatever range/distance you want. What wouldn't work is an A2-type rear sight with the elevation adjustment wheel on there - that's specific to the .223/5.56 ammo. Those "hundreds" on that elevation wheel will not give you the desired range when run on a .308 AR. Those numbers wouldn't be accurate like they are on an AR-15.

YHM does make free float tubes for .308s, but only in DPMS pattern - and they only make them for Fulton Armory. If you want one of those tubes, the only choice you have for buying it is through FA. <thumbsup>

Other countries. They don't want to assimilate. They can GTFO as soon as possible, too. They don't like it here? No problem - pack your damn bags. >:(

Barrel extension and bolt need to be compatible. Armalite design or DPMS design. Either barrel will fit in the upper receiver, and either bolt carrier with work in the upper receiver. Keep those two parts matching, and almost anything else on the gun is "whatever you want to do." <thumbsup> Disclaimer - "whatever you want to do," minus of course, upper receiver threading. Free float tubes will need to be specific to the threading on the upper...

I sure as hell hope not - he can learn to shoot all he wants. I'll supply him in .22LR, but if he thinks he's going to keep shooting 5.56, he's about to learn... J. O. B. When he sees the next receipt for a case of 5.56, he'll think again. "J O B if you want your F D E, kid!" <lmao> By the way, I did damage the current crop of FDE the other night. It'll get delivered to my FFL on the 20th, so I'll have a few pics up shortly thereafter. <thumbsup>

Yes. <thumbsup>

Just saw this thread - I can't believe Heath hasn't been mentioned yet. bandit10-4. I've picked up two Jard triggers from him, at different times. What an awesome asset to the site. For others, don't even hesitate to do business with him in the least, if that chance comes up. Heath, thanks for what you've already done, buddy. <thumbsup>

Before and after pics, of his progress on the rifle over 3 weekends. Now, he's been shooting a CO2 powered pellet pistol since he was 7. His transition to the M4 .22LR rifle has been excellent, and he's picking it up quickly. Two week period, three weekends in a row. I think he's getting it. <thumbsup> He's been a sponge for information and practice, but he's trying to learn everything too fast. I keep slowing him down, but it's working. First target, shooting at the thing all afternoon: Last weekend, doing much better at grouping. There's a couple .45 ACP holes in there, too. <thumbsup> We'll keep going out there until he can out shoot me. Instruction ceases right then... <laughs>

Pretty significant diffences - they not only just lowered the profile, but completely redesigned the whole thing. Kinda what I'd expect MagPul to do, really. Very nice. <thumbsup>

That is sad news. Don't know what to really say, besides I hope the family will be strong.

Nice! Been looking forward to seeing the side-by-side since your earlier pics. <thumbsup>

Daaayum! VERY well executed! <thumbsup> One big question - did you paint the Pmag? If so, great job. If not, where'd ya get the FDE Pmag? <laughs> That is a very well put-together rig.

Man, you know I did, too! <laughs> I worked with him prior to going out the first time, and he'd shoulder the rifle on the right shoulder, then screw his head all the way over to the side so he could sight with his left eye - it was strange. I worked with him on using his right eye, but that wasn't happenning, not at all. Did a little "dominant eye test," and sure as hell, he's left eye dominant. At that point I taught him how to shoulder it left handed... <dontknow> ;D It'll take awhile to get him to use his right eye, but once he gets that, he'll be able to shoot pistol with both eyes open. <thumbsup>

That's what I'm thinking. Especially when Wilson is saying they're supplying "modified" Lancer mags and that's the only thing that'll work. Not quite sure I'm up for experimenting with what their modifications are - even if I buy a few from them. 300BLK keeps looking better and better. ;D Someone will figure this all out, with the mags. Once that happens and it'a a common thing, it'll be more appealing.

Shiiiiiaat. If I was doing that, I would have built an AR-1..... Oooops. can't say that here. ;) That's why I built a SR-25-based .308... <thumbsup>

I know, I know. I even gave the lecture about the "suspect your measuring devices" if you suspect foul play... :-[ I will say this - there are different types of "fits" when you're talking about precision parts. If the real size was 0.002" under what the 0.154" trigger pin size is, that's an "interference fit." Most of those are only 0.001" under, and trying to make something 0.002" under work is gonna be a problem, fight, issue, etc. <dontknow> "Precision fit" is what this should be, here - 0.001" or 0.002" over sized on the hole. Based on the size of the hole/pin in the first place, 0.002" would be sloppy for what we do and know. If that true size of that hole is 0.152", something ain't right. Sanding and filing pins isn't the answer.

^^^ Those are the things I've been looking at, too - without the benefit of having a 300BLK already on hand. Just the measurements you've given means that you'd have a round, seated like the others at the current seating depth - sticking out 0.017" further than the 2.250" mag length. That's probably the thing that guys are talking about with the modified mags, and only using Lancer mags. I need to pick up a Lancer 5.56 mag and check it against my plethora of Pmags, just to see what's going on between the two. If I can't use (make, modify, or buy) a Pmag for the x40WT, then I may not be running it. If I have to modify a Pmag to run the x40WT, and it affects the function of running 5.56 through that same mag - then I may not be running it. I'd like to get into this round for many reasons, but common use of parts is the primary reason. If that's not gonna be the case, then it's not worth it. Especially when the 300BLK will run in my comon parts. I'll order up a Lancer mag just to check out what's going on. That's a pretty small price for admission, without diving headfirst into it. <thumbsup>

The one thing that bothers me about this whole affair is this: small-pin trigger standard is 0.154" diameter. On ALL ARs. Not some, ALL. How did Mega make something that doesn't even conform to the standard of the common trigger group? Why did they make something tight, for something that really IS an industry standard?!...

You are 100% correct. Other people are overthinking this, but you're right in your thought process. For a living now, I build motorcycle engines ALL the time. If you want bearings out of the lower crankcase halves, heat it to 200 degrees for 30 minutes (not gonne work on a firearm part, but that's not a motorcycle engine, and vice versa). Heat those biotches up, smack them on the table, and out pop the bearings - because the machined bearing areas have expanded. So did the bearings, but not as much as the bearing areas. Before I put bearings into a case half, I heat the case halves, freeze the bearings a couple days prior, and literally drop the new bearings right in there, fully seated. Small, light tap to ensure, and all is good. Anyone that tries to apply physics to this will get it wrong - they'll think heat will expand a hole, and close the diameter. Anyone who has done it knows that it doesn't work that way. Just sayin'... <dontknow>

Or, just another safe. They multiply, too... <lmao>

We went back out today. MAN, I love my new Kimber!!! ;D My boy dug into my secret stash of .22LR CCI MiniMags. He managed to blow through a 500-rd box. His targets previously were looking decent, but he started to put it all together today. He's been saving his "favorite" target every week, but he threw the older ones away today when he brought this one home. 25 yards, and he's getting it. <thumbsup>

For most things that we do with the BATFE, we use two different forms - Form 1 and Form 4. Form 1: YOU are the "manufacturer." You put together your own SBR, SBS, whatever, from other manufacturers ready-made parts. Example: Buy anything you want for parts for an AR15, including a short barrel, and "manufacture" your own Short Barreled Rifle (SBR). This requires a Form 1 to the BATFE for Tax Stamp approval and receipt of the Tax Stamp. Once you receive that Tax Stamp, you can assemble your SBR, in this example. There are a couple other things involved, including engraving the lower with "Manufacturers" info - YOUR info. Form 4: Let's keep on the SBR example here. You want to buy a full Colt 12.5" barreled AR15. That's a NFA item, and a Short Barreled Rifle. You order it, get it's serial number, and put that information on your Form 4 and send it in to the BATFE. It gets shipped from the manufacturer (Colt), to your FFL Dealer. It sits there until you receive your BAFTE approval and the tax stamp. At that point, Tax Stamp in hand, you go to your dealer and fill out the 4473 and pick up your factory SBR. Form 1 - you're the manufacturer. Form 4 - the factory is the manufacturer. Suppressors are manufactured by the companies, and require a Form 4, unless you're making one from scratch, on your own. Check this link out: http://www.silencerresearch.com/Silencerguide.pdf

Wait... Respectable people, or the magwell grip?... <lmao>

I don't think it's necessarily a mag problem, but a machining problem with the uppers. Or lowers. Height-over-bore kinda thing. Uppers are being machined with the bolt carrier circumference too high, over the top of the mag, or the lower-to-upper stack height is being machined too high. There's no standard to follow for machining these rifles. Nobody follows a "set" set of plans during machining. When we combine different uppers and lowers, the true flaws come out. With guns having bolt over run problems in .308, that's the first thing I think of. Different uppers and lowers combined, and the machining differences between the two companies isn't even compatible - because they're all doing what they want to do. What upper does CMMG recommend using? Does that upper run with Pmags? Now, I'm not defending Pmags here, I'm just trying to think of ideas that might lead to the real issue. There are so many guns that Pmags run perfectly fine in - mostly uppers and lowers from teh same company, though. Just a thought... <dontknow>