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I'll go a step further here. If you've free-floated the gun, used a good barrel from a good manufacturer (that can be a "standard barrel" from most good manufacturers - doesn't need to be an expensive "match barrel" from a custom shop), have a good trigger in there, don't have serious headspace problems, and haven't done anything drastic to mis-match a buffer... That gun should repeatedly shoot well. Looking beyond the "poop happens once in awhile" things with manufacturers, and a few bad parts getting out the doors on seldom occasions, there's not too many other reasons that THE GUN shouldn't be capable of (close to, or at) 1 MOA shooting at 100 yards. That says nothing about the shooter's capabilities. Given those basics, a good shooter should be able to get that gun at 1 MOA at shorter distances. When you start fine tuning the guns, and putting more money into high quality parts - and paying attention to combinations of parts that work well together, and you can shoot, that's when you'll have a gun that's capable of great accuracy at long distances. My $0.02, for what it's worth... EDIT - I forgot to address ammo, most importantly here. Some ammo won't shoot 3 or 4 MOA at distances of 100 feet, let alone yards. Match the quality ammo to the rifle configuration, or you'll find yourself pissing into the wind trying to get good groups, provided everything else is on par...

In short, to make a semi auto rifle accurate: free-float the barrel. use a good trigger. use a quality barrel. verify your headspace upon assembly. use the appropriate buffer. In a nutshell, that's what you can do to make an accurate semi auto. Everything else is fine tuning parts to make them all work together. There's not really much to making an accurate semi auto, besides not using crap-parts. What makes an accurate semi auto is the shooter. A good shooter can make a crap-parts gun look good most of the time. A piss-poor shooter can't make a $5k custom build look good, no matter what. Parts won't help that, if the shooter is not up to par, and it doesn't matter how much you spend, or tweak on the gun. Bottom line - look at training first. Assess that, and figure out what needs to be done, either gun or shooter.

Welcome aboard, brother - recognize you from the AR-15-board side of things. <thumbsup>

Same as the AR-15 pin. It's about 1/12th of an inch. Hit this for exact dimensions: http://www.biggerhammer.net/ar15/pins.html

Just noticed that on the Bushmaster MOE .308... Cool change. <thumbsup>

Damn. That is a nice setup, coming straight from a factory. Good find, Drew. <thumbsup> That MSRP ain't too bad, either. <dontknow>

I'd like to see something from JD Machine Tech about this one, considering I found the link to it posted by someone called "kaiserworks." Since the two used to be business partners, it looks like one shitting on the other. Not good business, kaiserworks. Dumping on an ex-partner for supposed wrong-doing doesn't make you look better... http://www.10news.com/news/26649839/detail.html

They did a good job on that one. I need that for my 20" 5.56 gun. I've left backups off that gun due to scope clearance, and the regular rear MBUS was close but not enough. These will do the trick. <thumbsup>

If you guys are close to Zanesville, go check out Briar Rabbit Shooting Sports. Worth the drive even if you're not that close, really. I grew up in Zanesville, and we used to have 4-wheeling competitions on the site that this range is on (Y-City Hilltoppers; they left one of the buildings onsite painted with the mural. Cool <thumbsup>). Last time I was back there, I checked it all out - very good complex. Rifle range goes out to 400 yards, and there are several cool outdoor "shoot rooms" set up on the top of the hill. Pretty sure those are pistol only, but I shot 5.56 on them (time of day, number of people there, have a connection with the owners, etc.). You might not be able to blast rifle caliber into those things when you're there. <dontknow> http://briarrabbit.com/

That'll probably be tough to video the "lack of flash..." <laughs> That will be a cool vid, man. <thumbsup>

Yep, on flat ranges it was foamies or the issued silicone flange plugs. In the woods/dirtpile - nothing. Everything you need to hear all happens before the shooting starts.

There are no links - I directly uploaded them to the message. Might be your computer settings or server firewalls, though. <dontknow>

I did a quad rail on my .308 so I could free-float the barrel, then have options down the road. Right now, all I use it for is bipod attachment, and I stuck Knight's rail covers on there to hang onto. I've got a sling attachment point mounted on the front part of the rail that works great (still nothing attached to the barrel), but that's about it. Later, down the road, if I feel the need to attach something to the rail, I've got that option. At the time of my build, using a quad rail as the free-float option was about the only option, so that's what I went with. I've got flexibility now for whatever I want later.

Show me these two, right here. The $1k one, then the $1.2k one.

Buying and building are two completely different things here. This isn't 5.56... :D

What kind of a minigun was that? The Dillon M134 isn't anywhere near 10k rpm. The older GE M134 was a little higher than the Dillon, but not like that. EDIT - what kind of FFT were you running that bent up like that? I know, lots of questions... <dontknow>

They don't. However, they do make compatible parts for DPMS-based, LR308-based semi auto .308s. There's a big difference between AR10 and non-Armalite .308 semis. They're a great company to work with, and their stuff is top notch. You can't fail using their parts. <thumbsup>

Eeeeehhh... I'm not sure how much of a .308 semi-auto rifle you build for a grand, or even $1200. It won't be much, and it definitely won't be tough. On another note, I don't think you need a barrel strong enough to fix a bayonet to - if you get to that point, you should be on your backup. If your backup is down, and you're looking for something to fix a bayonet to, you're in very, very deep poop. Call 911, call for immediate extraction, or hit your E&R Plan... <dontknow> If you're not in a Combat Zone, and you're thinking of going to fixed bayonets - your plan was bad. If you're IN a Combat Zone, use the weapons you're authorized to use. You'll have friends nearby that are in the same shitstorm that you're in. My $0.02...

Here's the NRA rebuttal to all this nonsense. Great piece of work by the authors, I must add. <thumbsup> 1683_.pdf 1685_.pdf 1687_.pdf

I ended up picking up a pack of 12 Surefire batt's and didn't have an issue. I'm pretty sure that's an Arizona thing, though. Maybe it originated from some kind of control of Lithium or something? <dontknow> I sure as hell hope it wasn't because Surefire batteries are "weapons batteries..." :o

Multi Cal lowers are already marked appropriately, i.e. Cal: Multi. The law requires caliber to be marked, and it is - as Multiple Caliber. The law won't change - caliber will still have to be marked, just as it is required now. The law might have to be clarified, as in "Caliber must be specifically marked, and 'Multiple' isn't specific enough..." or something along those lines. The BATFE's job is the clarification. No law needs passed to change the Cal: Multi markings, but the current law needs to be specifically clarified in regards to caliber markings in order to enforce such a change. They still won't be able to take away something in the future that you can legally own right now. Right now, it's 100% legal to own such a firearm. Example: You can currently legally own a Pre-Ban rifle in almost all states now, as long as you're complying with the federal/state/local laws of such a Pre-Ban rifle. Again, just my humble opinion, but I don't see it going any other way.

I'll try the Cabela's here in Glandale, AZ later this afternoon... I don't think that's a requirement for Surefire batt's here... <lmao>

You're fine. Some states already require it - like CT where Drew lives. If you were in a state that required it already, you wouldn't have been able to pick yours up from the FFL with it marked "Multi." The law hasn't changed, it's not the law yet, but they're trying. At the point that they pass it, they can't go back and say "You have to get rid of that." It'll be another national law made up by idiots, and there will be a whole lot of Multi Cal lowers out there (the ones out there now) that will be "pre-ban" items on a list. Manufacturers of these have the serial number range of everything they manufactured by what date, so you'd be safe down the road. Making stupid laws like this just makes it a pain in the ass for those of us that build these "adaptable" things and still want them adaptable... My $0.02... <dontknow>

DEFINITELY not something you'd say publicly amongst this group... <lmao> <laughs> <munch>

'Bout time you got on board... <thumbsup>