98Z5V

.338 LM, by chance?... <dontknow> ;D

I haven't had any dealings with Bank of Ass (can I say that?...) since they took over the .mil Govt Travel Card BS from AMEX. I hated them then, and I've never opened any kind of personal account with them, over that fiasco. Never will, either. They SUCK. IMHO, of course. <dontknow> Eff them.

Yep, love mine. I have the 18.5" mid weight stainless NM barrel. Great. <thumbsup>

I never really though about how "restricted" I was, even in a gun friendly state like Virginia. As I got closer to moving (which didn't really take long at all), I realized how much Gun-Friendlier it is in AZ - and how much I missed being here. Yes. :o <laughs> I refuse to buy roll pins anymore - I won't buy a gas tube unless it comes with a roll pin. All gas tubes I buy immediately get mounted into a gas block, just so the pin doesn't get lost - and I can't afford to have loose roll pins laying around... It never ends, though. A gas block in the safe, with a tube sticking out of it... that tube is gonna get damaged somehow. I protect them by attaching the gas block to a barrel, and securing the free end of the tube into an upper receiver... And then... Now you're getting it... <lmao> <thumbsup> Spare parts cause me grief, and cost me more money... <dontknow> Markstone, don't worry man. You probably won't end up like me. But... <laughs> *** The previous message was brought to you by Gun Builders Anonymous. All persons interviewed are real, and all events have occured. Monetary expenditures have not been exaggerated in any way. All ammo has been fired; no unfired rounds have been taken from the range. ***

There's a 0.040" difference (40-thou) in the F marked front sight base and the standard front sight base. You can make that difference up easily in front sight post adjustment with a standard base. It's not a big deal, and the adjustment is there in a standard base. If it's a concern that can't be lived with, then Bushmaster sells a front sight post that's taller, that you can use in a standard base, just so you don't have the base of the sight post cranked up as far. From what you're describing, I don't think that's the issue here - F marked or standard bases. Something else is going on, besides that. You still don't need to be using the large aperature to zero the weapon. That's a given. The small aperature should definitely not be on a different focal plane, as you're saying.

All I was doing was responding to the OP - I cannot be personally responsible for the structure and word choice of every person that posts on this board... <lmao> In all seriousness, I'd try the small sliding basement window thing - separate it into two windows, or just use one of them, once separated. It kinda depends on the size of the "cat" you're trying to contain... <laughs> <lmao> <munch>

Please define... <lmao> <dontknow> ...and if I ever visit, may I partake?... <thumbsup> <munch> <laughs>

I'm glad you guys signed up, and are here - a very warm welcome to you. <thumbsup> On another note, I need to order more, so you'll be hearing from me. I knew when I put the first one in, that I was gonna go broke outfitting the other ARs... <laughs> Thanks for joining.

Is there an elevation wheel built into that rear sight? If so, what's it set on? Also, don't use the large aperature for zeroing, or any kind of precision work. Use the small peep sight on there for anything with accuracy in mind.

"Don't cry. We'll get you a Noveske tomorrow." <laughs>

Maaaaaaaaan... No doubt. There was never any way I wouldn't see this one. :o <laughs> Cabela's is really good about transferring to their other stores, too. I can have them send it to the Cabela's in Glandale/Phoenix. I can't do it right now - but I want to.

They will have their own .308-specific rail system, too. This is gonna be a nice setup. <thumbsup> ;D I'll get the rail in the same state that I told you about for the upper and lower. 8) .308 SBR from hell... <laughs>

^^^ That's very cool... <thumbsup>

Welcome aboard, Steve!

Hey man, that's not my fault... :o Deny all you want, you're just as afflicted as the rest of the bunch... <lmao> ;D Welcome aboard, Mark. Enjoy the comaraderie, as it's plentiful (whether you want it or not). <thumbsup> Disclaimer to those uninformed - I didn't want to lose that damn roll pin... <dontknow>

Man, I knew it looked like stencils, but in today's world the kid that came up with it might have named it Times New Goober, or something equally senseless... <dontknow> <laughs>

I'll try... <dontknow> ;D What's the current font that you used on what we have now? I've got a buddy that'll just about have anything you'll need - he's got 53,000 fonts for his printing business. <thumbsup>

You're right on, Matt. You use the adjustment to restrict the gas flow. You can't increase the gas flow, because it's only going to max out what the stock gas port will allow. If you needed to increase gas flow, you would have to drill the gas port bigger, and go from there. Different types of rounds are going to produce different gas pressure, though. That's where I was originally going with my comments. Sure, a 168gr from Winchester is going to be about the same as a 168gr from another manufacturer. When you start seeing different powder charges for different weighted bullets, the pressures aren't going to be the same across the board. Will a .308 semi cycle alal of them? Yeah, most will cycle almost anything. Some don't like certain types of ammo. Changing/asjusting the gas port flow with ana adjustable block isn't a bad thing. You crank it down far enough, and it's not going to cycle everything out there, though. I'm interested in the gas volume/gas pressure aspect here.

Here's a start, brother. ;) What do you want done with the lettering/design?

I don't think I understand the "once adjusted open position" part of this, and how it equates to loads. The amount of gas pressure will be dependent on the amount of powder, and that's all about the load of the round. You can't tell me that a hot load for a certain heavy bullet will produce the same amount of gas pressure as a subsonic load for a light bullet, given the exact same gas system? Am I confusing what you stated for "same volume" and trying to equate it to "gas pressure" here? I can load a case hot, and it'll still make the "gas volume" requirement to cycle the action - with force - a hell of alot faster than a case loaded for subsonic. The lightly loaded case might still make the same "gas volume" required to cycle the action, but it's not going to cycle as fast as the other one. If I cut down the pressure (gas port size, through an adjustable gas block) for a certain round, just to make it cycle with less force, it might not cycle a round that has a lesser powder charge. Maybe it's not enough pressure to lock the bolt back on the lsat round, but everything else functions fine. Maybe, it's not enough to throw the bolt back enough to strip the next round off the top of the magazine. Not good at all. Curious about this...

Example of a 2-point with a quick adjust: Fabbing up something like that would not be difficult. I'm running that exact sling on a mid-range 5.56 gun with a 16" barrel. I use a single point on 3 4 other 5.56 guns, one two are 16", one a 14.5", and on the new 11.5". On the .308 with 18.5" barrel, I'm re-using an old 3-point sling - I won't be doing any left-right transitions with the .308. Had I not had that sling laying around, I would have put another quick adjust 2-point on the .308, just for ease of making adjustments as I carry it. Edit - forgot about one of the 16" 5.56 guns. :o <dontknow>

That rationale just made me laugh my arse off. Excellent use of words. <thumbsup> I personally load a 75gr Hornady TAP round into the chamber of a 14.5" (pinned and welded, i.e. "legal") AR every night, and load a 230gr Speer Gold Dot into the chamber of the Kimber Desert Warrior. I sleep peacefully, and they're nearby. The middle of the night, awakened from your favorite dream and half stupid, is not a good time to be doing anything except basic reactions. Target ID, safety lever, and whatever has to come after that. Verbal commands from you will happen, whether you know it or not - it's almost like a self-protection version of Tourette's. Keep It Simple, but you must Keep It Safe - your house might be different than mine, so "safe" depends on your surroundings, and not mine. FWIW, I used to load a Moss 930 SPX every night, bird-bird-buck-buck. Nothing in the chamber. Rack the charging handle, and it was ready to go. From what I've seen about buck penetration (wallboard) vice 5.56 penetration, the 5.56 gun is now the primary.

Cautionary note to people - this part will work if you already have your load developed and are stuck on that, or if you always shoot the exact same brand/load of factory ammo. Blue Loc-Tite is easy to remove, but it's not necessarily easy when used on a small set screw. And it's not gonna happen fast. If you change handloads or factory ammo often, you might find that your rifle won't cycle like it should with certain loads. My humble $0.02.

It's kinda like we're all barging into your living room - when all the guys are around, nothing good happens... <lmao> <dontknow>

Hopefully, Tom Miller doesn't kick me in the nads for this, but I saw the drawings on his board. Comparo pics of the billet .308 lower in the works (bottom, in pics) compared to their own billet 5.56 lower (upper, in the pics). I've got a 5.56 billet set from them, and it's one very fine piece of hardware. The initial drawings of the 5.56 pieces ended up looking identical to exactly what was release, so I have no doubt that this is what the .308 parts will look like. <thumbsup>