98Z5V

Lots of guys have cut barrels, and made improvements. A former Marine Sniper runs a school out here in AZ, and he disproved this myth. By cutting the barrel an inch at a time, and shooting 900 yards, everytime. Zero loss of accuracy. Maybe a change in DOPE, but no loss of accuracy. Contact GPS Defense for more info. They used to have a very good article about it up here, and I've linked it before - they used a SawZall to cut the barrel, and re-test - and didn't even recrown the barrel. https://www.sniperschool.com/

This fat hooker finally got some paint today. My custom Cerakote mix. I call it SHIIT BROWN. It's amazing in the sunlight... Oh, let's not stop there - lets just paint the Athlon scope, too... It's FINISHED now. Proper dirt colored, and it's right. Everything is good in the world.

The thread is ELEVEN YEARS OLD, Sniper. 11 years old. Keen perception skills you got there. Oh, welcome to the board - go rip up the Intro Section, and tell us all about yourself.

Contact them.

What lower receiver is this?

How far did you turn that buffer face back? The Tubb CWS pushed the buffer back another 0.080", and it fixed ALL of these problems. Just curious how far you went, and it solved it. 0.080" was the answer, on the old-school CWS.

Shoot the gun, it's not gonna blow up in your face. Shoot the gun, and see what happens. This is probably a non-event, and definitely didn't happen during shipping. I'd shoot it, if it was mine. But, I shoot dented brass, too, just to "fire-form" it one more time, and make it good again.

Great idea for the machining of the buffer face - and that defilitely solves the issue, and gets the buffer in contact with the back of the BCG, and pushes it off the retainer, just like it's supposed to. I'm with Jim, though - David Tubb doesn't make the CWS anymore, the the offset pin is a very easy solution. Despite what anyone argues - the design of the lower is a 6* forward offset for the pin, and lowers that are drilled straight-up vertical for the pin are not right, and will cause issues.

ToolCraft. Brownells house-brand is ToolCraft as well. Aero Precision used to be ToolCraft, but they've switched up their supplier, it's no longer ToolCraft - but the BCGs are still just as good. It'll take digging, but I'll find out who the new ones are coming from, for Aero.

@Rsquared - you're gonna piss your pants laughing at the vision-in-your-head that I just left you with... and I only want one thing, from you. I want you to admit that you pissed yourself, laughing, over the scenario of you and Rene in Big-Chair/Little Chair...

This is easy, brother. Use the small chair to replicate a FULL SIZE chair - SMART mentality, right there. Now, the ultimate payback is build that Large Chair. Wait for it... And you get you and Rene together. YOU sit in the LARGE CHAIR, and you stuff Rene into the smaller chair - and post the pic of THAT!...

Thanks for the kind words, man - seriously. Every one of these is a work in progress, until it gets perfected, and functions flawlessly. My goal in life is just to make every .308AR out there work like it should, and information is free, if people aren't dickheads, demanding it. Problems with the gun? We, collectively here, work through it. Every .308AR should be perfect, do what you want it to do, based on your design for the parts selection, and your real expectations for the gun - but that's not always the case... - because there are 3 major platforms, and zero uniform standard, and ONE -GAZILLION manufacturers, some of which don't even know what the fuk they're doing in the first place.... So, we need to tweak, tune, modify almost every gun that comes from "somebody" everytime "somebody" releases their new "whatever" gun. Hard to stay on top of - but if you stick to the basics of the designs - that WORK - then you make the gun RUN by resorting to the basics of the designs that REALLY DO WORK. Then, the gun runs all the time, with all the ammo. Life becomes perfect, then. The shiit that works - is proven. And, don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit. Life will be good. That's my soapbox speech for the night...

Indeed. In the bugout plan, there will always be a spotter up there.

...If he's gonna run that .224 Valk against them! PLUG 'EM UP!!!

If you think bolt bounce is the issue, then the only cure for that is heavier buffers. Springs alone won't fix that. Just heavier buffers.

That's one damn good looking, well-thought-out gun right there. You knocked that one outta the park!

And watch for HogZilla again, sneaking up on you...

You can do 1200 yards for free, if you want to drive to "south of Phoenix, AZ" and shoot where I shoot. The 1760 is free, too. We can go longer, if we want. It's just a matter of setting it up, and having enough gun to do it. Right now, we only have two .300 Win Mag guns doing the mile, but I'm gonna risk it with the .260 Rem sometime soon. For the Win Mags, we're talking about setting up 2k yards, just to see what happens with them.

Real Avid has one kinda like that, but I think they only make it for AR15s, not the Large Frame ones. It's this one:

Yeah, isn't that Shiity?...

I harp on this at the Shoots - have a rig for your gear. It's only important when we hike up that hill, and do the High Angle shooting. We're not driving trucks up there to the shooting position, with all our gear in the back of them... like Long Range... One day, I'd like to set up the High Angle shoot as a real Long Range shoot - and get targets out there to 1k yards and beyond. It's not gonna be hard to get those targets out there at distance - those that have shot that hill know that. We have FOREVER range from that hill... However, gonna have to get your shooting gear UP there. Chest Rigs are the answer, for most of your shooting gear. Here's a hell of a deal on Optics Planet right now, for a good chest rig that won't break the bank. $68 bucks, VooDoo Tactical... What's not to like?... Buy 'em before they're gone. Pick your color... They have plenty... https://shop.opticsplanet.com/voodoo-tactical-tactical-chest-rig.html?_iv_code=1VA-CRG-20-9931-20-9931105000&_iv_gclsrc=aw.ds&_iv_gclid=CjwKCAjwvMqDBhB8EiwA2iSmPKWFcYpEiIJoOHNxmIErw7JBmmCkPO2eU2L3CZlTHDb8o2oYdGGyPhoCIgkQAvD_BwE Up there - we're only limited by ballistics - and what you can get up that hill. We're not limited in any way by and kind of distance... Once again, pic courtesy of @blue109, and his excellent form on the hill... #Mk12Madness

Kinda, yes. Not gear oil treatment, but TWICE AS GOOD as WD-40!!! Blows away PB Blaster for a penetrating oil, too, by FAR. And I do get it from @JBMatt https://justicebrothers.com/products/industrial/jb-80/ I use it everyday at work, and keep a can in my range box for "BCG LUBE WHEN YOU NEED SOMETHING NOW!"... Just used it today at work, to loosen the rusted ass brake cable adjustment nuts on a 1983 Honda ATC-200E Big Red. 38 year old ATC... Worked like a charm, too. Zap it, let it sit for 5 minutes, free'd up those corroded nuts/threaded brake rods. Cool thing about the JB-80 - it eliminates acids in your fingers. Silicone spray won't do that. Use that fancy gun-company silicone-infused gun rag on your blued shotgun barrels - then touch them and put them in the safe. 6 months later, you have your rusted fingerprints on that barrel. JB-80 kills acids. Wipe the blued surfaces with that stuff, and you can two-fisted man-handle those blued parts, and THROW them in the safe - the acids in/on your skin, the JB-80 eats it. That's why I treated that oldass PT-92 with it, after I had rust on those blued parts.

These days, with the chaos and anarchy in big cities - that is a GOOD thing!...

Damn good lookin' gun!

Plastix Revolution does a good one - but with a reaction rod, you won't need a vise block. https://www.plastixrevolution.net/products/223-ar-15-308-ar-10-upper-receiver-vise-block