98Z5V

If you change up the guts of the recoil system, you can keep that 7.750" internal depth extension, and it'll work. You just stick two quarters in the extension first, then put in the spring and buffer. Those two quarters take up the excess internal depth. It'll function just like every correctly-made 7 5/8" internal depth extension after that. Any old off-the-shelf AR15 H3 Carbine buffer will work (or the Armalite AR-10 Carbine buffer, it's the exact same thing), and add the Armalite EA1095 recoil spring, and you're in action.

Time for me to invest more time in the .300 Win Mag. I looked up the best projectile I cound find for it, per the load manual, and it's the Hornady 225gr ELD-M. It's impressive, with a G1 BC of .777 and a G7 BC of .391. Sectional Density is .339 on that slick pig. With my preferred powder of RL-22, I can get that thing going at 2800fps. Here's what it would look like, doped out - I'm supersonic at 1700 yards: I need to put time into this one, and really develop the load for it. If I can get it to 2800 fps (max charge in the Hornady 10 manual, with RL-22), I'm 60 yards away from a mile, supersonic. Time to find the projos - I have the powder, brass out-the-ass for it, and the CCI primers. I've been wasting my time working up my 195gr loads... No more of that. The H-10 manual specifically states that you need to max-charge RL-22 to see the benefits of it. I'm down with that. I'll start a grain lower, in 0.3gr increments, find some sweet spots, then 0.1gr the next batch to find the winner. This fucker is going a mile. Hell or High Water.

Be careful with gas tube roll pins!... What you described was my exact psychosis with an extra gas tube roll pin. I know they're tricky little bastards, and I know they can't be left alone - or they'll disappear. They do that when you try to install them. I lost one, one time. I had to wait a week to get the next one it - then I smashed that one. I ordered TWO more. The first one (of the two) went in, with a chamfer on it's end. Then, I had a spare... I chamfer the end on them now, and use that chamfered end right against the gas block - and smash that little unruly bastard in there with a good mini-hammer whack. Once it's started, it's over, for it. It's going in. So, in fear of losing that spare, I had to order a gas block to put it in - WAY harder to lose a gas block, right?! I figured, with the gas block in the cart - why not just get a midlength AR15 gas tube with that block? Pin them together at the same time - NO WAY to lose a gas block with a midlength gas tube hanging out of it... That gas system ended up being a midlength-gas 16" AR15 precision gun in no time flat. That extra gas tube roll pin cost me about $1.5k... Little bastard.

Wait 'til I get this Mod H finished, brother. You'll shat yourself...

Aluminum gas blocks are not a good thing for longevity on gas guns. They erode quite quickly, due to the gas pressures-through-small-holes that they have to deal with. My $0.02 on an aluminum gas block.

See if you have any damage on the ears of your lower, from the BCG impacting it. The internal depth on the receiver extension is too long, at 7.750" internal. It should be 7 5/8" internal depth. That enough of a difference to makethe BCG smash the ears on the lower - I'm curious if yours did.

This is exactly what I want to see from AR15 bolt catches in a.308AR. They don't typically have enough height, or throw, to grab a .308AR bolt face. Maybe the BCG body - but that doesn't work. In addition to that, they're too short, from to back, and don't usually have enough protrusion to even catch the mag follower, and hold the bolt open. I'd love to see the pics of your other functional AR15 mag catches holding a .308AR bolt open on an empty mag. Please show an overall pic of he gun, as well...

With the physical differences between the two, that's gonna be hard to pull off in a .308AR, with that specific AR15 part. You have pics of the ones that you have, that work just fine?

5.4oz carbine buffers won't work on a 7.000" receiver extension, as aon off-the-shelf part. What's the length on that 5.4oz buffer?

That's a pretty badass idea right there - Recce Rifle...

That sucks, in a way, but it's funny as hell. That's a lesson, right there, folks. Lesson 65b. You snooze, you lose. I saw someone in here about 30 minutes ago, looking at this thread. If they wanted it, it should have been grabbed then. It is what it really is - You snooze, you lose. That's Lesson 65b here.

Good ammo for those - the 123 ELD-Ms are just about perfect, for those guns.

Mine was $265 OTD from my Gun Pusher, and he owed me. MAP is $299.99 on them. You'll need to know someone to pull it for less than that. MSRP on that Trijicon RMR RM-06 Type 2 is $699. I don't know what the MAP is on them, and can't find anyone that lists it.

Oh shiit!!! I'll PM you my work address to send it to, right now!... My bad...

So will the .30 cal Brakeout, Rene. I've got a couple .30 cal muzzle devices on Grendels, but my brake on the .260 is the VG-6 Gamma 6.5. Allen Engineering make their brake for 6.8 cal, but don't advertise it. Only place I know that keeps it in stock is Precision reflex. That's so close to 6.5mm it's not even funny, and it will set you up for an Ops Inc/Allen Engineering can. https://www.precisionreflex.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=186717&CAT=4212

I swear that thing was half the damn cow...

You're gonna kick me in the nutz, but... I'm just ordering a HUGE batch of Cerakote this coming Friday... I've had shiit weather for painting, for so long, that it never got done. Now that my weather has been nice, I figured I better get off my ass and get this painted - along with 3 or 5 more...

Yes, they are. http://www.cci-ammunition.com/products/primers/primers.aspx?id=30

Take a look at that thing close - that should be a pretty narrow section that the mag catch passes through, and the hole that it passes through is not a tight fit. That's something to look at, but it's not going to have a giant impact in the mag catch function. How many -thou do you think you'll have to machine, when moving that mag catch placement upwards, on these lowers that are giving you issues?

Instead of the trouble of welding mag catches together to take up space of a re-machined slot..., Machine the slot upwards, to what you need. Fill the bottom with HTS-2000 alu brazing rod, re-machine the bottom until the slot is 0.250" from the top. That would be alot easier, and it's also a permanent fix for that lower.

That's a strong possibility, right there. I only run CCI 41s in my heavy 5.56 loads, just for that reason. It gives those 75s a little bit more velocity, and gets them over 2750fps. That's where the magic happens on those projectiles. You don't need to use them in any 300BLK loads, but that might be a benefit, if it works the same...

Water seems routine, but can never be underestimated. That's a tough way to fight it out. That sucks to read, brother... RIP.

Never heard of that lower - that's their mag catch height?

I use CCI 400 primers in all my 300BLK loads, and have never, ever used a magnum primer. There is zero need for that, at all. There is also no way you will ever get close to a full-case capacity on a 300BLK load, for supers. That's why the basis of the cartridge is pistol powders. Pistol powders are what it take to run this type of load, due to the specific case capacity, and the projectile. This is just .30 Carbine, reinvented. Same powders, same projectiles if you're comparing the lowest weights - 100~110 grain. The biggest difference between those two is the case itself.

This right here, brother -great for shrimp on a skewer on the grill.