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You'll be able to find a copy of the TDP out there somewhere - it's still up in a few places. It's the actual document with all the specs, and it clearly lists 303 stainless for gas tube material.

Too much recoil timing - there's too much time allowed for the BCG to travel rearward, then forward. It's the 7 5/8" extension. These things were designed around the 7.000" extension. That extra 5/8" each way is another 1 1/4" of BCG travel - and time. You might need more than a 10oz buffer in there, too. Which buffer is it, exactly? It's gotta be pistol-specific, and longer than 3.250" carbine buffers are. .40 is a mean caliber, it's "10mm Lite..." I'm running 8oz pistol-specific buffers in the 9mm and .45AR, and the .45 used to double on me once in awhile because the buffer was too light (ran an H3 buffer and $1.75 in stacked quarters before), and the BCG was moving so fast. Blowback pistol caliber ARs are hard on hammer pins - get some KNS Precision anti-rotating pin sets in these things.

Nope, 303 stainless. It's the only thing that's ever been spec'd for the gas tube, once they came up with that.

303 is the mil-spec, because 303 doesn't work harden with heat, ever. That's why it was spec'd for gas tubes in DI ARs. 304 is what alot of guys make headers out of. 304 changes shape once it gets it's initial heat - which is why header-makers can "be off" once in awhile. No worries for them, because the headers will "conform" to where they should have been made in the first place. 303 is hard to get, but it's worth it, in the long run. I've blown out 304-stainless headers a few times, due to heat, right at the collector, both times. It can't handle the concentration of heat, long term. My $0.02.

This is for new member @Betanio - you've been viewing this topic all night, man. Send the question already. It's quite alright to post it right in this thread, zero fear of bringing up old threads. We're here to help, man.

You using 303 stainless or 304 stainless on your gas tubes? Very interested in the shooting results, man.

He's crafty, ain't he. We need to keep an eye on Doc, brother...

NICE, brother!!!

Okay, so this is finally going down tomorrow. Kinda. Last weekend was Mother's Day - that weekend was out. My parents are snowbirds, and flew back to Ohio last Wednesday, so the past two or three weekends were spent with them, before they flew back. GP John has been busy as well. So TOMORROW we were taking out the 375 CheyTac and checking out the farm in Gila Bend. Last night after work, I went to the shop, and gotthe scope mounted and leveled in the new 40 MOA rings, on the 40 MOA base. 100 rounds of ammo ready to go. He called me at 1pm today. Someone called him up and asked if he still had the gun, how much he wanted. He threw out a ridiculous number. The guy said he'd take it. The gun is sold. SHIIT!!! We're still going out to the farm in the morning, and checking everything out. I'll take the .260 and the Win Mag. We'll see what happens.

ToolCraft .308 BCG for $124. The vendor is very reputable. https://www.armorally.com/shop/toolcraft-ar10-308-bolt-carrier-group-black-nitride/?v=7516fd43adaa

A1 and A2 stocks use the exact same Rifle receiver extension, buffer and buffer spring. Internally, the parts are the same. The only difference between an A1 and the A2 stock are what it takes to mount it to the Rifle receiver extension. The A1 stock is a direct bolt-on, with the supplied vented screw. The A2 stock is 5/8" longer than the A1, so you need that 5.8" spacer, and a 5.8" longer vented screw. On a .308AR, the rifle buffer needs to be 5.200" long and weigh 5.4 oz. Anything else is junk. For the spring, I'd use the Armalite EA-1095 spring. YOu can get the parts you need directly from Armalite, but it's not completely necessary to do that. Hardly any company screws up the rifle recoil system. I have seen one or two Aero Precision rifle recoil system kits that were off in measurements - those are the only ones, I think.

Dirk, I did the roll-through tour inside that link you put up - that thing is CRAZY!!! Damn, that's a nice setup, brother!!! Been in Larry's rig - amazing. I can't believe how far these things have gone now. Toy hauler/garage, with mini-stack washers and dryers in there, move from the "garage" into the main living quarters, and it's nicer than most hotels you'd stay at. Unreal...

Forming your own 300BLK brass from 5.56 brass is a lengthy process - to do it right, and "easiest." Oh, I know. Somewhere here is a listed twenty-something step process for converting LC 5.56 brass to 300BLK. My .260 - Yes, I measured neck thickness before, on various .308 Win brass. The Hornady Match brass was the most consistent, and that's all I've ever used to make .260 brass from. It's excellent brass. However, move that diameter down, and you've got the same amount of material taking up a smaller diameter, and the neck outer diameter dimension is larger than it should be. I turn the necks down on them all, both inner and outer diameters, perfectly matching every time. Some need more turning than others, but the inner and outer neck diameters will always be within the limits that I set the neck turning die to - and that's on Hornady Match brass. I can only imagine what I'd have to do if I was mixing lots and brands of different 7.62 NATO brass. KM Shooting is the neck turning products that I bought. .260 Rem is the only case that I neck DOWN. I'd turn the necks on any brass that I had to neck down in caliber. Necking up is not an issue with wall thickness. I currently only neck up 25/45 Sharps and .338 Federal. Those two never have issues.

You already bought the CMMG BCG? Dump it. Get the ToolCraft BCG. Recoil system. Fixed stock or collapsible stock setup? What are you going for here? Rifle recoil system or carbine recoil system?

I don't hate him. I LOVE HIM LONG TIME!!! Edit - Did I tell you that I finally got to sleep with him in Vegas. For real... I got to sleep with Rob. It was dreamy... 🤩

Let's talk again first - RL-22 is a go, for sure. We need to up that projectile weight to the 285gr Hornady ELD-Ms for your gun. That's where the magic happens, brother...

Depends on the round in which you intend to fire, and the maximum distance that you intend to engage targets.

That fucker walked up and shot the 200 yard target... with a 1911... What an asshead...

Grind up the white stuff - not the gray stuff. I got this...

Last time i calculated the .338 LM loads that we shoot out of Ron's MRAD, they were 90 cents a round...

Brother, I've never payed a single penny for any .260 Rem ammo, as of yet. I've never purchased any factory ammo. I built my own from Hornady .308 Win Match brass, and buy the components, though. That gun has never, ever been fed anything but handloads, it's entire life. We need to get you into reloading. High price on 147 ELD-Ms would be $40 per 100 box. 40 cents each. RL-22 Powder let's call $35 for a pound (7,000 grains in a lb, I'm loading 43.0gr per round = 162 rounds per lb. $35 / 162 = 21 cents a round. Primers = CCI 200 Large Rifle Primers at $32 per 1000 box, so 3.2 cents each. I'm 40 cents + 21 cents + 3.2 cents per match-grade long distance loaded round. 65 cents per round, brother. You can see how reloading equipment pays for itself pretty quickly. If you have the brass, you're golden. I turn the case necks down, exact, every single time I make a piece of .260 brass from Hornady .308 Match brass. After that, I never have to do it again. That gear was $100, one time purchase, and it came from KM Shooting. I don't count that into the cost-per-round. https://kmshooting.com/

I wanna try 5lbs of Tannerite, with an airbag booster. We need a couple airbags for testing, prior to. We need to time the "button push" to the airbag detonation. Once we've got it down, fill a pumpkin with 5lbs of Tannerite, time the shot with the airbag-booster shot, and send that exploding pumpkin up there pretty damn high...

YOu need a DPMS-based "Low" rail for it, based on what I saw on the link above. Just the fact that listed Gun Tec as a direct fit for their lower - Gun Tec only makes DPMS Low upper receivers. This is gonna be fun. I'm interested to see where this goes, and how it functions. Their .338LM AR doesn't run.

It's a great rail design - follow the torque instructions, don't go over the torque limits. I've had one since 2010, and love it.

It's a mil-spec patterned trigger in that gun. Otherwise, they wouldn't be able to run the Blackhawk trigger (primarily advertised as an AR-15 trigger) in the MSR-10 Hunter model.