Gas Block Alignment and Spacing

[98Z5V]

This is to assist with gas block alignment and spacing.  How often have you worried whether your gas block is centered over the gas port in the barrel - is it off the shoulder?  How much is it supposed to be off the shoulder?  Did I get it right, or do I have to shoot it and find out, then take the damn thing apart again?...

 

Don't worry about it, basically.  For the most part, the port in the block is larger than the gas port in the barrel.  Mostly.  However, if you really want to check it all out, it's very, very simple to do, when you're using a set-screw type gas block.  This info won't help for clamp-on blocks, but you can measure for that and confirm.  That info comes later.  Now, for the set-screw blocks...

 

Here's the hardware for the example: Rainier Select 18" mid-gas .308 barrel, Geissele Super Gas Block.

 

 

As you can see, the Rainier barrel is already dimpled, for use with a set-screw block.  Not all barrels are dimpled, but that is an easy process to make happen.  Next time I get a non-dimpled barrel, I'll go through it.

 

 

Now, gas block manufacturers all do this same thing - on the set-screw blocks, they drill for the set screw locations, and the rearward set screw hole continues straight through, and becomes the gas port in the block.  No kidding, check that out next time you get a new block.  It's non-complicated machining.

 

Here's a look THROUGH that rearward set screw hole, and you can see the gas port in the block:

 

 

To exaggerate it, here's a punch, right down through:

 

 

Easiest way to see how far you have to set that gas block off the shoulder, is to slide it on the barrel they way you'd install it - then flip the block 180 degrees.  You'll turn the block upside down.  You should be able to look THROUGH that rearward set screw hole, and center it on your gas port in the barrel.  Center the block over the gas port in the barrel, and check the distance from the shoulder that it is right then.  That's how far off the shoulder you'd need to mount it, to have everything centered up. Pretty simple process.

 

 

^^^  As you can see in that pic, the Geissele Super Gas Block will mount flush against the barrel shoulder on this Rainier barrel, and it will be centered. 

 

Here it is again, side view:

 

 

Hope that helps somebody, somewhere, sometime.  Have fun, check your $hit, build more rifles.  <thumbsup>

Edited May 18, 2015 by 98Z5V

[Dane Armory]

Did you buy that ?

[98Z5V]

Buy what, brother?  There's lot of "that" in the pics...  <lmao>

[Toolndie7]

As soon as I saw that I knew what you were going to do. Not a bad idea for the guy on the bench.

[survivalshop]

  I have a Clamp mount VLtor on my 300BLK that has an alignment hole or where they drilled the Blocks gas port out , through the first clamp screw hole . No photo's , I noticed it when installing it with the new ALG hand guards .

  I've been noticing the Match Barrels I've been getting of any Caliber  , through measuring , they all butt up against the Barrels shoulder . The Tapered pined A2 sights type should have room for a Hand guard cap . I say should , because we have one we are talking about here ,that no room was left between the Barrels shoulder & sight to allow for this .

 

  Good post , I have never used a set screw type Gas Block , but will use a Geissele on my next Build . Nice Gas Block .

[Toolndie7]

 

 

 

 

I think your thumb is broken <dontknow>

[392heminut]

Great post Tom! <thumbsup>

[survivalshop]

I think your thumb is broken <dontknow>

 

  I think that's his toe's  <lmao>

[ChaseFan9]

Great post, Tom. This should probably be pinned, I've seen so much confusion on the topic.

[blue109]

I think your thumb is broken <dontknow>

seriously...

[MikedaddyH]

The clamp !

[EngrBob]

Thank you.  Excellent presentation.

[98Z5V]

I think your thumb is broken <dontknow>

  I think that's his toe's  <lmao>

seriously...

 

That's the thumb, not a fukkin' toe, you wiseasses.  Both thumbs have been broken numerous times, and they dislocate easliy.  It's quite handy for throat-punching some a$shole with a thumb jab, and not having to worry if it's gonna break.  Just do it, reset it, drive on.  :eek: <thumbsup>

 

The gurgles are awesome, afterwards...  :banana:

 

The clamp !

 

What "clamp?"  The Fortis Switch rail in the pics?  There's no such rail in the pics, Mike...   Don't know what you're looking at...  <dontknow>

[slugger43]

Posts like this are why I'm here.  Super easy to understand clearly illustrated info.  Thanks!

 

Not bad for a guy with a busted whateverthehellitis appendage.   Hahahahahaha    Throat-punching makes neat sounds.....

[Rsquared]

That's the thumb, not a fukkin' toe, you wiseasses.

What? Wiseasses around here? Say it ain't so. <laughs>

[NTXshooter]

Great post.  Many thanks.

[ChaseFan9]

I figured the thumb just came from years of flipping that selector to fun mode....

Post #200! <lmao>

Edited May 20, 2015 by ChaseFan9

[Microgunner]

Well presented tutorial, thanks.

[tbready]

I've made a homemade jig like this one here for actually drilling non dimpled barrels. Works like a champ.

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/Slide3.jpg

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/Slide4.jpg

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/Slide5.jpg

Edited May 25, 2015 by tbready

[Christopher67]

I've made a homemade jig like this one here for actually drilling non dimpled barrels. Works like a champ.

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/Slide3.jpg

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/Slide4.jpg

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/Slide5.jpg

 

Very nice!