Parts Compatibility for the DPMS 308

[archangel2003]

I'm looking for info on parts compatibility for the DPMS 308 upper and lower.

I have just purchased a stripped DPMS upper and will be welding the lower (from the flat spot) as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function.

I also have a flat spot AR-15 lower that I just got the stripped upper for and will also be assembling and welding it at the same time, also as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function.

The issue I have is I have read where there are differences between the different models, (DPMS, AR-10 and so on) or makes and I would like to know what fits what, and what is specialized.

I see some charging handles listed as AR-15 and 308, so are they the same?

If not, are all 308 charging handles interchangeable or do I need to look for one listed DPMS?

I would think the 308 would be longer as the upper and the BCG are so hugely larger/different than the AR-15.

Also, some places seem to indicate the upper forward assist parts (but not the dust cover) and the lower parts for the DPMS 308 uses the same parts as the AR-15.

 

 

[washguy]

Arch       Do what??   welding? flat spot? WTF?    Wash

"I have just purchased a stripped DPMS upper and will be welding the lower (from the flat spot) as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function.

I also have a flat spot AR-15 lower that I just got the stripped upper for and will also be assembling and welding it at the same time, also as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function."

[archangel2003]

Arch       Do what??   welding? flat spot? WTF?    Wash

"I have just purchased a stripped DPMS upper and will be welding the lower (from the flat spot) as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function.

I also have a flat spot AR-15 lower that I just got the stripped upper for and will also be assembling and welding it at the same time, also as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function."

http://www.theflatspot.net/

http://www.theflatspot.net/308-receiver-flat-dpms-style-like-ar-10.html

Yep, welding together from flat pieces of "heavy" metal.

I have already welded one of their 3 piece lowers and built an AK63-D.

All that I have left to do is sand blast the small and raw parts, Parkerize it, then reassemble it.

The AK barrel and bolt have already been head spaced and the barrel was reamed and pinned to the trunnion.

I'm spending the winter building a few guns for a spring shooting trip and the main focus is doing it on the CHEAP.

The AK is about 95% done but could be assembled as is (ugly) if dire need be.

The AR-15 and a DPMS "AR-308" are about 10%ish done.

Here is one of the parts in question.

AR 308 CHARGING HANDLE

• Manufacturer: PRECISION ARMS

• Model: AR15/AR308

• Caliber: 30CAL/7.62

• Color: BLACK

• SKU: PRE308CH

 

Edited January 29, 2016 by archangel2003

[archangel2003]

Tried to edit and now it wont let me.

Arch       Do what??   welding? flat spot? WTF?    Wash

"I have just purchased a stripped DPMS upper and will be welding the lower (from the flat spot) as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function.

I also have a flat spot AR-15 lower that I just got the stripped upper for and will also be assembling and welding it at the same time, also as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function."

http://www.theflatspot.net/

http://www.theflatspot.net/308-receiver-flat-dpms-style-like-ar-10.html

Yep, welding together from flat pieces of "heavy" metal.

The say "mild steel construction cut on a 4000w industrial CNC laser" but some parts look like they came off of a rather sloppy plasma cutter and show signs of a lot of heat.

Either way, it fits together rather well for the size of cut pieces that they are.

I have already welded one of their 3 piece lowers and built an AK63-D.

All that I have left to do is sand blast the small and raw parts, Parkerize it, then reassemble it.

The AK barrel and bolt have already been head spaced and the barrel was reamed and pinned to the trunnion.

I'm spending the winter building a few guns for a spring shooting trip and the main focus is doing it on the CHEAP.

The AK is about 95% done but could be assembled as is (ugly) if dire need be.

The AR-15 and a DPMS "AR-308" are about 10%ish done.

Here is one of the parts in question.

AR 308 CHARGING HANDLE

• Manufacturer: PRECISION ARMS

• Model: AR15/AR308

• Caliber: 30CAL/7.62

• Color: BLACK

• SKU: PRE308CH

 

[washguy]

"I'm spending the winter building a few guns for a spring shooting trip and the main focus is doing it on the CHEAP."

Ok on the cheap huh?  ive seen many places that have ar15 lowers for like 49 bills..... so you are gonna take a P.O.S. steel plating weld on it or get in touch with Maduece and JB weld it...and you have never assembled an ar308 from an upper/lower made by a legit company?  I bet thats gonna be a good looking piece of work  ....now I know what im going to do when ive completely run out of $hit to do                  Wash

[archangel2003]

"I'm spending the winter building a few guns for a spring shooting trip and the main focus is doing it on the CHEAP."

Ok on the cheap huh?  ive seen many places that have ar15 lowers for like 49 bills..... so you are gonna take a P.O.S. steel plating weld on it or get in touch with Maduece and JB weld it...and you have never assembled an ar308 from an upper/lower made by a legit company?  I bet thats gonna be a good looking piece of work  ....now I know what im going to do when ive completely run out of $hit to do                  Wash

Get in touch with Maduece and JB weld it?

Sarcasm ninja, eh?

So, who is your Maduece?

I said weld, not glue, and just because some places have them for your "49 bills", I'm doing it for only $28, (AKA 28 bills) home grown and without any markings.

If I wanted to have the same "P.O.S." as everyone else, I'd follow your herd.

The only AR style weapons I have ever used were USMC issue, so no, I have never built one from scratch.

If you don't have a constructive or helpful opinion, keep them to yourself.

Thanks for the warm welcome there car-wash-guy.

Edited January 29, 2016 by archangel2003

[shepp]

Wtf is going on here? 

I don't understand the welding part

Dmps is is the most popular 308 pattern

nothing ar15 will work with your 308 

yes 308 charging handles are longer

Edited January 29, 2016 by shepp

[ChaseFan9]

Get in touch with Maduece and JB weld it?

Sarcasm ninja, eh?

So, who is your Maduece?

I said weld, not glue, and just because some places have them for your "49 bills", I'm doing it for only $28, (AKA 28 bills) home grown and without any markings.

If I wanted to have the same "P.O.S." as everyone else, I'd follow your herd.

The only AR style weapons I have ever used were USMC issue, so no, I have never built one from scratch.

If you don't have a constructive or helpful opinion, keep them to yourself.

Thanks for the warm welcome there car-wash-guy.

Aw hell....

Don't be so quick to "go that way" AA.  Granted, Wash MAY have come on a little strong (I figured military guys would be used to it), but you have to remember that you're talking about welding together the receivers of a rifle that you started out saying you are unfamiliar with, a practice that doesn't make a lot of sense to folks, on a platform that is notorious for compatibility issues for both new AND experienced builders, and it definitely wasn't the most easily understandable post ever, anyways.  And this group is great, almost everyone here would gladly help out as long as you're civil and clear.  

 

So please, hold off on the name calling at least until you get settled in

[mrmackc]

AA, no disrespect here about your handle by abbreviating it to AA. How about posting pictures of your projects.  We may change our opinions if we see some of your work. Yep it sounds kind of strange so far. Maybe we just have a lot more to learn. 

[DNP]

Calm down there sailor.  Everybody keep their poop together and we'll see if we can get through this.  Don't know if you've read much on this forum before, but I think you'll find that Wash is one of the loved here. He can get out on the edge a little at times, but he will bend over backwards trying to help people figure out an issue. Don't get offended by a few words on the Internet. He expects us all to keep our big girl panties on and at least pretend to be men.  This weld together kit is something we haven't seen much around here. I remember seeing links to one at some point in time, but I don't think we've actually seen someone do it. We can try to keep you on track with the other parts, and you keep us up to speed on how the kit goes. That's if you can remain calm. Remember you're the new one here. 

 

I would still mark that gun when you're done with it. And keep a record of it should it ever be stolen. Don't need to register it anywhere, just have some form of serial on it. Only way to get it back and prove that the dipshit they catch with it didn't make it himself...no markings, maybe he built it. 

[slugger43]

Hey Arch!  Fascinating!  Given my level of welding skills, I can see me ending up with a paperweight, but I'd love to see pix of your 308 as it progresses.  I've done a few 80% lowers, but have never seen these "weld-up" kits.  Given the price, I'm tempted to mess with this.  Got about 7 million questions.  Pictures!  Pictures!

I would still mark that gun when you're done with it. And keep a record of it should it ever be stolen. Don't need to register it anywhere, just have some form of serial on it. Only way to get it back and prove that the dipshit they catch with it didn't make it himself...no markings, maybe he built it. 

I second this.  My 80%'s are all identified so I can prove they are mine, if necessary.  And photographed.

And oh, yeah, welcome to the forum.

Edited January 29, 2016 by slugger43

[survivalshop]

 Car Wash-Guy , that's a good one ?  Sorry bro , I couldn't help it .

   Now back to this welding stuff, I have a frame flat for my MAC 10A , that has to be folded & welded to be able to use & I know they have them for an AK , but it looks like the link you posted is of an all Steel Lower that can be welded together . Hope there is a jig to make sure the alignment of the parts is available , because there is a lot to the Lower Receiver . You have your work cut out for you , that's for sure & please post photo's of your progress , its something I would not even contemplate on doing & I've been building AR type Rifles since the late seventies .

  What most may be thinking here is , as I , These rifles ( 308AR's ) are hard enough to know, because of component compatibility issues , you have put yours into a whole different realm , so to speak . Good luck & keep us informed if you so inclined , we will answer as best as we can , if you have questions . 

 

   

[archangel2003]

That dishwasher guy did not scare me off at all, just got my dander up.

In for a penny, in for pound?

My video skills are, seriously lacking, but I did film a few minutes of welding the 3 piece receiver for the Hungarian AK-36D I made as well as a brass tumbler.

https://www.youtube.com/user/archangel20031

I bolted the front and rear trunnions in and used a set of spacers I made to locate the hammer and trigger pins.

Everything bolted together and worked perfectly after I finished welding and grinding, so I took it back apart to parkerize it (also another home build nearly complete and will be added to YouTube) once it's warm enough to fire it up in the garage with the doors open.

I have to say the best friend of the builder of an AK is the sloppy as hell allowable tolerances.

I did find 1.6mm metal is a lot easier to F.C.A.W weld than the 1mm is.

I'm still dreaming of a T.I.G welder.

I'm betting that the AR lowers, being made of so much thicker metal, should be easier to secure and tack-weld together.

I'm waiting for the lower assembly kit to show up so I can verify function of the individual parts.

I did order a couple of stripped poly lowers (just in case) way back before the last panic so have an example for assembly, and I also have a stripped AR-15 upper and a magazine.

Once I get the AR-15 together, I'll put the 308 together.

The DPMS 308 stripped upper just got here so all I need is a magazine and to know if enough of my AR-15 parts will work for fitting the 308 together.

 

[archangel2003]

I second this.  My 80%'s are all identified so I can prove they are mine, if necessary.  And photographed.

And oh, yeah, welcome to the forum.

It will be unique enough that photos will ID it.

I was thinking of etching a picture of a pissed off Casper on one side with "Restricted to Militia Use Only" and

"A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

on the other side.

[slugger43]

Mine has (right side) a laser-engraved ghost, and says "Civilian Use OK, Not only for M&P"  Left side has an identifier number, caliber, and city and state, all engraved.

Kind of fun putting a little "tweak" to the powers that be on my project.

[guruofhotrod]

Interesting, I do a lot of metalworking/fabricating in my line of work, I noticed you referred to flux core MIG welding - seems that gas shielded

would be a better choice? if it were me, I'd find access to a TIG welder for this project (before you ask, yes I own one, a Miller Synchrowave 250)

That would give you much more control of the process to minimize warpage. I was also noticing that you have to drill the holes for the detents/springs

that can be a little tricky unless you have a jig or are using a mill - just sayin  One last detail that I saw on the website you linked, the mounting for

the buffer tube is unthreaded and they mention something about welding a castle nut to the rear of the receiver to attach the buffer tube - hmmmm

I have seen the correct tap on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-3-16-16-High-Quality-Taper-Tap-Gunsmithing-Others-New/151075274968?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33876%26meid%3D55dd864c7f9d4c9387c600d04e8d831f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D281625392253

I know it's not exactly "cheap" but it really would be the correct way to do the buffer tube threads. One last thing, Wash really is a great guy, he's

been doing the 308 stuff for quite some time, pretty mechanically inclined and contrary to what you might think can be very helpful with getting the

bugs out of these builds and trust me, it's quite a challenge to make one of these builds work properly the first time out.

[unforgiven]

AA you want to be a dick you'r in the wrong forum.Just sayin.

[archangel2003]

AA you want to be a dick you'r in the wrong forum.Just sayin.

I was the one who was treated with disrespect, on my first post no less, and was just asking for someone to share some info. and I'm the dick? Just sayin.

Interesting, I do a lot of metalworking/fabricating in my line of work, I noticed you referred to flux core MIG welding - seems that gas shielded

would be a better choice? if it were me, I'd find access to a TIG welder for this project (before you ask, yes I own one, a Miller Synchrowave 250)

That would give you much more control of the process to minimize warpage. I was also noticing that you have to drill the holes for the detents/springs

that can be a little tricky unless you have a jig or are using a mill - just sayin  One last detail that I saw on the website you linked, the mounting for

the buffer tube is unthreaded and they mention something about welding a castle nut to the rear of the receiver to attach the buffer tube - hmmmm

I have seen the correct tap on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-3-16-16-High-Quality-Taper-Tap-Gunsmithing-Others-New/151075274968?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33876%26meid%3D55dd864c7f9d4c9387c600d04e8d831f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D281625392253

I know it's not exactly "cheap" but it really would be the correct way to do the buffer tube threads. One last thing, Wash really is a great guy, he's

been doing the 308 stuff for quite some time, pretty mechanically inclined and contrary to what you might think can be very helpful with getting the

bugs out of these builds and trust me, it's quite a challenge to make one of these builds work properly the first time out.

Most of the holes needed are on parts I can clamp and drill before final welding.

I have an antique, heavy duty automatic tapper (like a drill press that can reverse while threading a hole without stripping the threads) and I use it as a drill press.

It's great for drilling and tapping, now I just need to swap out my standard taps for gun taps.

As far as the buffer tube, I have a metal supplier I have worked with that has that tube in stock in any length I want so was thinking of cutting one to the proper length, capping it, and welding it on.

Other than using a threaded hole for the rear take-down pin spring, i see no reason to need it to be detachable.

I have the print/dimensions for the tube used for the adjustable stock and I have the material to make the adjustment hole rack.

[Matt.Cross]

Let's consider our newcomer friend warned regarding his mistake and give him a chance to otherwise get along, I think your points have gotten across. 

Don't sweat the small stuff AA, we'll be glad to help you as best we can.

[Robocop1051]

This plate steel version does look a lot better than some of the previous versions I've seen. Unfortunately, my welding skills look like Michael J. Fox trying to thread a needle. I look forward to seeing a finished product.... I reserve the right to talk shiit if you weld anything like i do. Lol. Chances are you don't if you're taking up this project.

[guruofhotrod]

On the subject of the buffer tube, there is a spring and detent that retains the buffer/spring combo that is retained by the end of the buffer tube,

I guess you could weld the tube in after installing the detent/spring - if you ever had a spring break (springs can break) you'd have to cut the buffer

tube loose to repair it and then re-weld it - another option might be to recess a castle nut into the hole in the receiver that would otherwise be

threaded and carefully weld it into place (this is where the finesse of a TIG welder would be a big advantage - either way alignment of the buffer

tube is critical since the BCG has to be able to travel back into it without getting bound or hung up from mis-alignment - I think I'd stick with a

factory made buffer tube FWIW

[mrmackc]

A A appears to want a cheapskate way to build a functioning LR308/7.62X51 gas operating semi-automatic rifle using a $28 plate steel lower receiver weld-together kit.  Probably in order to make a Utube video to show off his home garage building skills just as he appears to have done with a AK 47 receiver.

Any recommendations for using modern method like a $59 1-13/16 taper tap or a  $1K MIG or TIG welder will shoot down his Cheapskate project goal..

Did any of you regulars see the Utube of the guy that did the video of the guy building a  a working .410 shot gun from black pipe with a hacksaw and a crackerbox ac welder?

This appears to me, to be in the same order of a deal, that is my 2¢ worth.

 

[guruofhotrod]

I hear ya, there's no "cheap" way to really do this - even "bottom of the barrel" parts are gonna cost several hundred $ to obtain

unless someone he known donates an upper and other misc parts. If he cuts too many corners I'm afraid someone will likely get hurt

firing this thing - if he hasn't already put some rounds through a 308AR he probably should so he will know what kind of forces his

project will have to contain - the thought of a BCG, buffer and tube getting launched into ones shoulder sends a chill up my back.

 

[jtallen83]

I'd highly recommend a long string for the testfire...........

I'll never underestimate what a good metalworker can pull off. I've seen some antique tools welded back together and finished off so well the naked eye would never know. The hours the used to do this were extensive though so it's a matter of what is your time worth when you assign the cheap label to a project like this. No doubt it can be done but WHY is the word that comes to my mind.

[mrmackc]

It may not necessarily get to the point of a firing test in order to accomplish the primary goal of making a Utube video.

I do agree that an ingenious person can do creditable work with what appears to be antiquated tools. Just look at the accomplishment that "Carbine" Williams did while in prison in Texas before WWII without either the internet or Utube or a M2 Carbine forum web site. 

Edited February 1, 2016 by mrmackc