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Hogue FF Forends -- Any Good?


COBrien

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I'm loving my "little" DPMS LR308T, but I have come to the conclusion that I do not need the railed gas block. This rifle is currently wearing a Weaver Kaspa 3-12x50, but will soon be getting something more like a Primary Arms 1-6x24. I'm looking at a low profile gas block and a longer FF forend, specifically Hogue. I like the fact that they're not "tactical" looking -- just plain and simple.

Having said that, I would like to have at least a standard sling swivel stud to mount my bipod. I'm torn between getting a rifle-length forend:

706475262.800x800.jpg

or a carbine-length forend:

1745968283.800x800.jpg

with one of their "3-gun" extensions.

354379788.800x800.jpg

Of course, whichever route I go I will have to buy a DPMS "AR-10" (that's how they listed it, I know the difference...) Forend Coupler.

 

Anybody have any opinions about these products?

 

Thanks in advance.

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I like hogue for other things but havent spent the money twards the plain and simple yet... I like simple but that gets complicated easily! 

In otherwords you can make your own mounting holes in aluminum easier than others .. Do if it will suffice your need.

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8 hours ago, sketch said:

I like hogue for other things but havent spent the money twards the plain and simple yet... I like simple but that gets complicated easily! 

In otherwords you can make your own mounting holes in aluminum easier than others .. Do if it will suffice your need.

  Yes , just remember that the Hand Guard Tube , is the "Barrel Nut "& if removed for any reason after a hole is made , it may not line up as it was originally set up at , after re-installing or should I say ,index the same . 

 The one with the forend coupler may be different , I have no experience with it .

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5 hours ago, survivalshop said:

  Yes , just remember that the Hand Guard Tube , is the "Barrel Nut "& if removed for any reason after a hole is made , it may not line up as it was originally set up at , after re-installing or should I say ,index the same . 

 The one with the forend coupler may be different , I have no experience with it .

Fortunately it is a 2-piece setup. I.e., the barrel nut goes on, then the FF tube threads onto it.

 

Worst case scenario, if I ended up removing the FF tube for some reason in the future and it didn't line up as before, I could always add some sort of thin washer (I know it'd be hard to find something off-the-shelf) to "index" the FF tube much like one would with certain muzzle devices.

...right?

I also need to measure MY rifle to see what the length is from the front of the upper to the flash hider. I'm not even sure I've got enough barrel out there for a 15" setup (like the extension tube + carbine handguard) to fit properly. 

Edited by COBrien
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After still more research, I think I'll be better off (and money ahead...) finding myself a DPMS LR-308 "standard length" (rifle length) FF tube. No need to change the barrel nut, etc. Swap to a low-pro gas block and it's good to go.

I'd probably have my local machine shop make some decent cooling slots in it, as well.

Now to locate one...

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8 hours ago, COBrien said:

After still more research, I think I'll be better off (and money ahead...) finding myself a DPMS LR-308 "standard length" (rifle length) FF tube. No need to change the barrel nut, etc. Swap to a low-pro gas block and it's good to go.

I'd probably have my local machine shop make some decent cooling slots in it, as well.

Now to locate one...

I have done some general sloppy measurements and believe I can file and grind down the original gas block enough for a metal freefloating hand guard to clear the gas block on a DPMS LR 308 Oracle.  Anyone done this?

 

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9 hours ago, mrmackc said:

I have done some general sloppy measurements and believe I can file and grind down the original gas block enough for a metal freefloating hand guard to clear the gas block on a DPMS LR 308 Oracle.  Anyone done this?

 

Just looking at the pics on DPMS's website, I don't see it being too big a problem to file down the Oracle's block.

My problem is I've got an LR-308T, with that mile-high (but still not receiver-height... Thanks DPMS!) rail. I'd need to start with a chop saw. Picking up a low profile gas block for $30-50 would be well worth it to me.

As another aside, I measured the distance from upper to FH on my LR-308T this morning. I don't remember the exact measurement, but a 15" FF tube would work out just fine, and a 15.5" would come past the back end of the FH -- not my style. I'm still thinking a 12" or 12.5" (more or less "rifle length) is more my speed.

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Yes I also like the 12" or 12.5"  I could make a quick job with an 4.5" angle grinder clamped in a vise, since I sold my old bench grinder, then use a file and finish it off with a Dremmel tool. rather than have to pull  the birdcage and the gas block.  Cut off the old Delta ring and weld spring, unscrew the barrel nut and pull the barrel.

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Called DPMS today. Since they have switched to Gen. II rifles, they are no longer producing or stocking replacement parts for Gen. I rifles. This seems like a terrible business decision. They pointed me in the direction of Daniel Defense, Creedmoor Sports (Creedmoor Armory), and Pacific Tool & Gauge.

Daniel Defense "got tired of the compatibility issues between the .308 AR platforms," so they made their own .308 AR rifle. With its own proprietary parts. Adding another platform with proprietary parts does nothing to "un-Foxtrot" the Charlie Foxtrot that is the .308 AR marketplace. Long story short(-ish), they only produce and carry parts for their platform. Which isn't the same as DPMS or Armalite. Have I mentioned it's proprietary? And that that makes no sense?

Pacific Tool & Gauge directed me to a $233 tacticool monstrosity in which I have no interest. Helpful, but going the wrong direction.

Creedmoor Sports directed me to Creedmoor Armory, who advised their gunsmith has seen lots of issues with .308 ARs (due to the incompatibility between DPMS and Armalite parts), and said I should bring the rifle in to the gunsmith to see what he could do. They're in Alabama. I'm in Oklahoma. That wouldn't work out. I do appreciate their help, but I know what I'm after... Lol!

Going back to considering a Hogue Rifle-length handguard or something along these lines:

GZP-125-FF-TUBE-LR308_1024x1024.png?v=14

At least it has cooling slots. But they're running around $100 from the website. The popular online auction marketplace (whose name and links it seems are not to be mentioned around here...) has a couple hovering around the $60 mark.

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1 hour ago, washguy said:

Take a look at these                              http://www.jsesurplus.com/search.aspx?find=308+handguards&log=false&category=17

 

Wash

I'm digging this one: http://www.jsesurplus.com/youngmanufacturingcarbineventedfloat-2.aspx

But it doesn't show up under .308 Handguards. Won't work. Have submitted an e-mail to Young Manufacturing to see if they make anything like it for .308s.

Also stumbled upon the Fulton Armory FF Handguards. I totally forgot Fulton's .308s are DPMS pattern...

PVR308.JPG

Digging this one. Comes standard with a sling stud hole, can be indexed with the locking ring (it's a 3-piece setup). Out of stock right now, showing $90 (more or less) as a purchase price.

This one has a slot for a handstop (not that I need that...), as well as a hole for a sling stud. Also indexable:

PVR308NM.JPG

$108, in stock.

I just have a hard time paying that much for what is, essentially, a threaded aluminum tube that is anodized black.

But a Hogue with the "DPMS AR-10 Coupler" would cost me about the same as either of these. $60-65 for the handguard, $30+ for the coupler. Plus these are already drilled and tapped, and can be indexed/timed should removal be necessary in the future.

I think I've made up my mind. Finally.

 

...maybe.

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The Hand Guard on my 20"HB is a early Fulton Armory one , with added full length Top Rail . I think " Imschur " has one on one of his also . They were all that was available outside of DPMS in the early days of 308AR building . I like it , had to use " LocTite " on the Lock Nut , to keep it from loosening & thats even tightening it with a Customized Spanner Wrench .

 

DSCN1972.JPG

 

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2 hours ago, survivalshop said:

The Hand Guard on my 20"HB is a early Fulton Armory one , with added full length Top Rail . I think " Imschur " has one on one of his also . They were all that was available outside of DPMS in the early days of 308AR building . I like it , had to use " LocTite " on the Lock Nut , to keep it from loosening & thats even tightening it with a Customized Spanner Wrench .

 

DSCN1972.JPG

 

Fine looking rifles!

And thanks for the heads up on the lock nut. I'd planned on using a touch of blue LocTite on both the handguard and the lock nut, just as I do with just about any critical threaded firearm part. Gas blocks (Mini-14s specifically), scope rings, etc. 

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Just pulled the trigger on a FA tube on the popular online auction site.

FA says they don't know when they'll be getting a new batch of the non-slotted tubes. They've been due from the supplier since December, and they're always "just a couple weeks out."

Found this one online used (mounted once, guy changed his mind and removed it), with a barrel nut wrench for $100 with free shipping. Couldn't have gotten it cheaper from FA directly, that's for sure.

Now to find myself a low-pro gas block. I trust FA's is good, I just don't know that I want to pay $10 shipping on a $30 part...

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