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Castle nut


lilmidtown

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Wow. Deep question.  You need SOME KINDA tool to tighten your castle nut. I've used punches and hammers in a pinch, depends on the circumstances.  Figure that out.  The right tool makes it much easier.

Aftermarket "buffer tubes" won't do shiit for you.  They should all be made to a specification, and the only real thing that matters is the internal DEPTH of it. If it's correct, in the internal depth - nothing else really matters. 

Buffer springs are a different story.  It all depends on what you rifle is doing, as to whether you need one. 

Describe what your rifle is doing, what malfunction it has, in order to determine if you need a different spring...

Details. Give it up.

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10 minutes ago, lilmidtown said:

My castle nut is loose do I have to buy the tool to tighten it?

No, you can keep snugging it up by hand. :hornet: The wrench needed is cheap;

http://www.primaryarms.com/midwest-industries-ar-15-m4-stock-wrench-mi-esw

10 minutes ago, lilmidtown said:

Also do after market buffer tubes and springs make a difference in recoil and such just wondering

Tube no, springs can, Tubbs has a video he uses to sell his spring that can shed some light on the subject for you;

 

Edited by jtallen83
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3 minutes ago, 98Z5V said:

Wow. Deep question.  You need SOME KINDA tool to tighten your castle nut. I've used punches and hammers in a pinch, depends on the circumstances.  Figure that out.  The right tool makes it much easier.

Aftermarket "buffer tubes" won't do shiit for you.  They should all be made to a specification, and the only real thing that matters is the internal DEPTH of it. If it's correct, in the internal depth - nothing else really matters. 

Buffer springs are a different story.  It all depends on what you rifle is doing, as to whether you need one. 

Describe what your rifle is doing, what malfunction it has, in order to determine if you need a different spring...

Details. Give it up.

It's not malfunctioning at all it shoots great. Today was the first day I got to shoot it after getting the barrel free floated the new handgaurd ,stock , and barrel it was just something that popped into my head today while I was cleaning it 

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54 minutes ago, lilmidtown said:

It's not malfunctioning at all it shoots great. Today was the first day I got to shoot it after getting the barrel free floated the new handgaurd ,stock , and barrel it was just something that popped into my head today while I was cleaning it 

You completely didn't listen to anything I told you, did you?  I'm not your boss, I get it, I don't tell you what to do...  Yeah, I get it. But what I asked you and what I told you to do wasn't for MY health or prosperity.

Holy shiit, guy.  Get with it.

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21 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

You completely didn't listen to anything I told you, did you?  I'm not your boss, I get it, I don't tell you what to do...  Yeah, I get it. But what I asked you and what I told you to do wasn't for MY health or prosperity.

Holy shiit, guy.  Get with it.

I'm getting lots of muzzle rise not in a free state where I can use a muzzle device either 

 

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On 4/2/2018 at 4:15 PM, lilmidtown said:

I'm getting lots of muzzle rise not in a free state where I can use a muzzle device either 

 

I get it, man. New Yorkistan, and all.  You gotta get outta there, man. I'm just sayin'...

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On 4/1/2018 at 7:48 PM, lilmidtown said:

It's not malfunctioning at all it shoots great. Today was the first day I got to shoot it after getting the barrel free floated the new handgaurd ,stock , and barrel it was just something that popped into my head today while I was cleaning it 

Schidt popping into your head should have a disclaimer on it.  Okay dork, if the machine is working, good you need to pull lever "B" now!..... damnit leave it be! 

 

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Now, you mean the stop nut to the carbine receiver extension? Spin counter-clockwise by hand. Use some 222ms loctite or equivalent vibratite/other manufacturer of thread locker. Something easily removed. Get a two pound hammer and a flat punch. Put your least favorite pieces of wood in a vice. Gently pinch the rifle around the receivers. Just tight enough to keep it from moving. Do not lean on the vice and destroy the rifle. I would say two scraps of 2x4 behind the ejection port. The intent of the vice is to be your 'helper'. Treat your rifle like your favorite lady. She does not like being squeezed.

Tap the nut slightly more tight. An extra 1/10" to 1/8" turn beyond 'snug'. Those things rattle free quite often.

Now, if you mean the barrel nut.. am going to recommend using an appropriate wrench.

Hopefully you have a thick hide.. I cannot make heads nor tails of what everyone else is responding with. Best luck.

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2 minutes ago, Floydieguns said:

Tap the nut slightly more tight. An extra 1/10" to 1/8" turn beyond 'snug'. Those things rattle free quite often.

 

Properly staked at 2 of the 3 stake locations, and they never rattle free.  Loc-tite shouldn't be used on that part.  That's why it's got the stake locations. 

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You would deal with added complications of a stake which must be voided to effectively remove said extension over a more direct and simple aproach?

Let me ask from another angle.. have you used any ignition-lock components with setscrews? Lot of aerospace R&D into that anaerobic compound.

There are more ways than one to skin a cat. Yes, I agree - staking will be a rapid and viable solution. Though, I know how staked threads can quickly become damaged threads. Ask me about an expensive learning curve when I once thought just turning the nut to a high-dollar import half-shaft was proper for removal... my mistake set me back $800 from my own pocket.

One last aspect - know that I can still reuse all those parts and they are not ugly.

Gas key setscrews - yup. Staked. They are never coming out. Receiver extension.. this is a modular rifle.

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The way it's designed, is to be staked.  It's nowhere near an "added complication."  Not even close.  It's also quite easy to remove a properly staked castle nut.  No staking comes into contact with any thread material at any time, either.  It's lockplate to castle nut, on the outer edges. If you have to remove it, and think it's unsightly because it was previously staked- you just replace the receiver end plate with a new one.  They're cheap.

Have you ever staked one?  It kinda sounds like you don't know what I'm talking about.

But, hey, put loc-tite on anything on your gun that you want.  Do it how you want to.  It's not the right way to do it, but it's Burger King day, and you have it your way.

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:laffs:https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/Non-Staking-Endplate-Castle-nut-options/118-721827/

 

They covered it all. Seems it is not such an issue. Thank you for telling us the us army armorer standard though. It is very important to remain 1973 milspec. Do you still use A1 components on all of your rifles?

:lmao:

In all politeness, I am aware of that. However most folks now use more adapted endplates and prefer the ability to interchange their parts as.. none of you likely have only one. Everyone here admires the parts bin modularity. For that reason alone, liberal amounts of locking compound and firm snugging is all you need.

Edited by Floydieguns
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On 4/4/2018 at 11:58 AM, Floydieguns said:

Now, you mean the stop nut to the carbine receiver extension?.

Looking back on this, he really meant "castle nut," because that's what it's really called. That's the proper term for it. 

Don't know where the hell you invented "stop nut" for yourself.  But again, do what you want, however you want...   :thumbup:

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15 hours ago, Floydieguns said:

:laffs:https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/Non-Staking-Endplate-Castle-nut-options/118-721827/

 

They covered it all. Seems it is not such an issue. Thank you for telling us the us army armorer standard though. It is very important to remain 1973 milspec. Do you still use A1 components on all of your rifles?

:lmao:

In all politeness, I am aware of that. However most folks now use more adapted endplates and prefer the ability to interchange their parts as.. none of you likely have only one. Everyone here admires the parts bin modularity. For that reason alone, liberal amounts of locking compound and firm snugging is all you need.

It seems you didn't read that thread all the way through, #1. It seems you attempted to quote that as an authorotative source, #2. 

Well, you should have read it. All the way through. You may want to really look at what you're suggesting, in reference to your "source" that you linked - they're not talking about what you are talking about... Look at it close...

Then come back to me.  Hope you have a great day.  :thumbup:

 

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