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Bad Groups with Old Scope


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you have the correct info here

1 shoot 168 or higher bullets not cheap one but match ammo...if you handload you will have to try more than one powder and bullet combo and find the correct charge weight and bullet seating depth but in that you are limited to what the mag will allow

2 get a one piece scope mount and a rally good scope IF you want to shoot long range it should be no problem to ring steel out to 800 or 1000 if you do your part how far down the rabbit hole do you want to go? to get there you have to do your part and don't skip or go cheap get good gear and you will only buy once. to shoot long range you will need good dope and that can be had buy shooting at all the different yardages and gathering it your self or get a shooting app i like applied ballistics or  BallisticARC either one will work, you will need to have your round run through a chronograph so you know what your true velocity is... and you will want a dead nuts zero i mean center of the button at 100 yards remember 1MOA at 100 is 1 inch at 800 yards it is 8 inches so get the zero down but first find the ammo your barrel likes that is the foundation....

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One thing I noticed, and I may be completely wrong  & was taught wrong, but I was always taught to mount the Rings or mount to the gun 1st then add scope  and tighten down everything evenly. Dust bunny started clamping down Rings on scope 1st, then mounting on rifle & had issue tightening down with binding 

Edited by Lonewolf McQuade
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4 hours ago, Lonewolf McQuade said:

One thing I noticed, and I may be completely wrong  & was taught wrong, but I was always taught to mount the Rings or mount to the gun 1st then add scope  and tighten down everything evenly. Dust bunny started clamping down Rings on scope 1st, then mounting on rifle & had issue tightening down with binding 

Haha, I like that name sort of.  Well, I basically did that but then I loosened the top rings enough to easily turn the scope and later I slid it forward some, then retightened.  I figured my scope was going to be the perfect straight starting point, and then I found out maybe that there is a slight variance with the rings or my rail.  After retightening top of rings, it is basically the same as your method.  I’m still trying to find out from my brother how big his medium quality Vortex scope is.... in case I buy one of that size.  That will probably make me refrain from buying a lapping kit for this old 1” scope.

 

14 hours ago, shooterrex said:

I suspect your dimples are not straight under the gas port. You can fix that.

Take the gas block off and look at the carbon ring around the gas port. Is it centered?

I may in the not to distant future take the gas block off, and replace it with a fixed block I got from KaK.  The cheap variable I have on now and the fixed KaK have different dimple locations, so I’ve only dimpled my barrel so far in the one common location between the two.  I left that option open until I commit to one or the other.  Do the extreme Marksman here use only clamp on gas blocks for fear of inducing stress points on their barrels?  I read that recently elsewhere.

Edited by DustBuster
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15 hours ago, shooterrex said:

I suspect

Hi shooterrex... just a quick question for you in regards to your Space Cannon scope.. Are Monstrum scopes Unimpeachable?  

Im never gonna be practiced enough to be in the High Class of shooters, but to gain some practice with turrets etc, I think I saw a monstrum first focal plane scope. Probably a waste of money, but I don’t have five Hundy extra anymore.  Don’t everybody slap me for asking about a Monstrum

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7 hours ago, Lonewolf McQuade said:

One thing I noticed, and I may be completely wrong  & was taught wrong, but I was always taught to mount the Rings or mount to the gun 1st then add scope  and tighten down everything evenly. Dust bunny started clamping down Rings on scope 1st, then mounting on rifle & had issue tightening down with binding 

that IMO is the preferred way...

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4 hours ago, DustBuster said:

Well, I basically did that...

No you didn't.  As i understand it you clamped the rings to the scope in what looked like being straight.  Then clamped the rings to the upper.  Then opened the rings and moved the scope.  If the rings were ever so slightly out of whack when you clamped them to the upper they were still out of whack when you moved the scope. 

That is why the preferred method is to clamp the mount/rings to the upper first.  Its easier to get it straight that way.  Then mount the scope and make adjustments as needed.

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3 hours ago, DustBuster said:

Probably a waste of money, but I don’t have five Hundy extra anymore.  Don’t everybody slap me for asking about a Monstrum

You shouldn't waste your money on something that's effectively worthless. Put that money in an envelope and throw $5-20 in it every week until it will buy you that Vortex Venom.

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Ok, my head is ringing because I did get plenty of sense knocked into me.  Vortex Venom it is, Thanks Matt Cross and the rest of you “Dads”. The Nifty scabbard I got for my gun which barely lets everything including the bipod squeeze in will then become a waste of money once I get the Venom,,, the rings also.  I will try some new ammo and better shooting posture, maybe a good bean bag for the back...I’m sure the Monstrum scope is cheap Chinese crap, a roll of the dice whether you get a marginally good one or a flawed one.  The same deal exists in the radio world....Baofengs and Wouxons on the reviews, some happy some sad; better off to buy a Kenwood or an Icom/Yaesu.  I buy the best feedline LMR400 and wire things up properly with good grounding, etc.  Some radio ops make homebrew equipment which sparks things up and that’s ok if they are crafty.  I do waste a lot of time when I’m too lazy to find an Allen wrench but I happen to have a teensy Weensy Torx bit that fits good enough.  That kind of mentality with gunsmithing is bad news.  I need to beat myself silly before 98 does.  Goodbye

Edited by DustBuster
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