gnatshooter Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Friends, My DPMS LR-308T is getting better all the time. I don't do projects on the scale of you guys, but I still pay attention to details and like shooting. I got a Dave Lauck rear notch sight and found the notch was too huge to shoot with, but a buddy of mine has a friend who's a machinist and made a new rear notch that's 0.060" wide. Would have been wasted money without that modification. Trouble is, mounting that sight with a decent eye relief left me with about 8" sight radius with a front sight mounted on the gas block. Well, I found the fix for that: a "competition barrel band". Which I found completely by accident. Well, everything is now assembled, and the "barrel band" LOL has a Lyman globe sight on top with a Lee Shaver reticle, the way life should be. Now's the time to shoot the rifle, all over again. And that brings me to the topic in the headline. I want to "bore"-sight this rifle. There's laser things and magnetic things, and none of them seem all that effective. Things are even more complicated since my new "barrel band" LOL for the front sight has its own adjustment for elevation. So I got adjustments everywhere. Well, I came across a mention of putting the rifle in a bench rest, looking down through the bore, and matching what you see in the bore with how your sights line up. No gadgets involved, and that was appealing. Also appealing was how "common sense" it is to look down the bore. Now one thing we got with AR-'style' rifles is the sights sit way high above the bore. And that's only one of the issues that bother me. Does anyone have advice on "bore" sighting through the bore? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EasyEJL Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 I've found the laser ones to work ok to get you close with just a few bullets used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Brother I tried it and unless that rifle is set solid,which mine wasn't it's alot of fukin around.I just got a cheapie bore laser,waited till it was dark and set the scope as close as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue109 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) Seems I have better luck eyeballing it than bore lasers. I have one that sticks in the barrel, and found that it's never perfectly in line with the bore. You can "spin" it and watch the dot dance around. Additionally, you need it dark enough to see the dot, but light enough for the sights to be useful. . I have big glass French doors, and the guy across the street has a wooden fence. I pull the upper, and set it on the coffee table well inside the room. I line the center of the bore up with the corner of the fence where it makes a nice clear contrasting L. Lift my head a little and check my sight picture. Adjust. Repeat. Always on paper first shot. Easy peasy. As far as your stick? That's WAY too much adjustment for me lol. I've found I don't even like playing with my scope knobs so I've just been working on holdovers. I like to set and forget. Edited March 6, 2014 by blue109 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbasks Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 I do it with every rifle. Even the 50 last weekend. Put in sled at 100 and put the target right in the middle of barreland adjust. Ive yet to miss 18"x18" paper first shot then adjust to zero. Had my buddy do his ar last night on pillows looking outside his window at a power box 50ish yds away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnatshooter Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 I have big glass French doors, and the guy across the street has a wooden fence. I pull the upper, and set it on the coffee table well inside the room. I line the center of the bore up with the corner of the fence where it makes a nice clear contrasting L. Lift my head a little and check my sight picture. Adjust. Repeat. Always on paper first shot. Easy peasy. Either you're good friends with the guy across the street or he is totally frightened of what you are up to and thinks you have many friends with even bigger guns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnatshooter Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 As far as your stick? That's WAY too much adjustment for me lol. I've found I don't even like playing with my scope knobs so I've just been working on holdovers. I like to set and forget. I like to set and forget, too. But when you start out with optional adjustments on everything (including cant), you gotta figure on doing all of it right, once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) Just got the Sitelite SL-100 after getting tired of messing with the cartrige type laser boresighters. Easy to use, and the Sitelite is way better "zeroed" than the cheapo laser. Spun it around and the sitelite was spot on even at 75 yds. The cartridge ones were never completely centered. I've done it both ways (visual and laser) and have similar results, but the laser lets me sight it in quicker and with less hassle. Edited March 6, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) Why not just shoot at 25 yards & go with that , making adj. as you go up in yardage to where you want the sights set at ? I have never needed one of those laser bore sighters . I have a Bushnell Bore sighter for bolt actions I use some times ,just to see where the scope reticule is , after mounting a scope, its a grid type bore sighter , doesn't work on anything, but bolt guns .There are off set spuds for it ,but not worth the hassle . Edited March 6, 2014 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue109 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Either you're good friends with the guy across the street or he is totally frightened of what you are up to and thinks you have many friends with even bigger guns. Lol...that's why I sit well inside the room. Sneaky like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EasyEJL Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Lol...that's why I sit well inside the room. Sneaky like.I'm going to be doing that later tonight I think :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N Jensen Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) Bore sighting with the good old eye ball works just fine. I do it all the time. About a 100yds works the best. - Install your rear sight centered for windage and the height you want for comfortable head position at 100 or 200yds shooting. - Install the front lipski sight, as best as possible using your eye ball WAG or a small level to ensure the front sight is vertical with the rear sight. - With bolt carrier removed, place the upper in a fixture that is fairly solid. Look down the bore at a large enough object to center up on. - Move the front sight vertically up or down so when you look through the sight it is aligned on the object in the bore either 6 o'clock or center mast. - Windage, either turn your rear sight or rotate the lipski sight base left or right as needed to center up on the object.. - Like the M-14/M-1 Garand. The rifle is zeroed with the rear sight at center and the front sight is moved left or right to zero the rifle. - Go shoot the rifle on a no wind day if possible, leave the rear sight centered, shoot and adj the front sight as needed to zero the rifle. Place a piece of tape on the barrel with a pin mark on it to see how much you rotate the front sight if needed. - Last test is to shoot a ladder target, a vertical line drawn up from the center of the target to top of the target. Shoot and adj elevation several clicks. If the bullets do not stay on the line as you crank up elevation the relationship of the front sight and rear sight is not true in the vertical plane. Or the rear sight doesn't crank straight up but at an angle. - One of the reason why the front sight barrel clamp was thought up and now used on all modern target rifles is to be able to adj the front sight in relationship to the rear sight to ensure the same no wind zero at all elevation settings. The old way of drilling and tapping holes to mount a sight block on the barrel wasn't adjustable and rifles then had different zeros at different yard lines. The photo is of a match rear sight and mounting block. Edited March 6, 2014 by N Jensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 I always put the rifle in a cradle,then go out to the fence and stick a square of blue painters tape on the fence in the area I see the bore pointing....go back and eyeball thru the bore,and get it lined up.....its never failed me btw the cradle allows me to shotgun the rifle so i can look down the bore ...duh :) Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Bore sighting with the good old eye ball works just fine. I do it all the time. About a 100yds works the best. - Install your rear sight centered for windage and the height you want for comfortable head position at 100 or 200yds shooting. - Install the front lipski sight, as best as possible using your eye ball WAG or a small level to ensure the front sight is vertical with the rear sight. - With bolt carrier removed, place the upper in a fixture that is fairly solid. Look down the bore at a large enough object to center up on. - Move the front sight vertically up or down so when you look through the sight it is aligned on the object in the bore either 6 o'clock or center mast. - Windage, either turn your rear sight or rotate the lipski sight base left or right as needed to center up on the object.. - Like the M-14/M-1 Garand. The rifle is zeroed with the rear sight at center and the front sight is moved left or right to zero the rifle. - Go shoot the rifle on a no wind day if possible, leave the rear sight centered, shoot and adj the front sight as needed to zero the rifle. Place a piece of tape on the barrel with a pin mark on it to see how much you rotate the front sight if needed. - Last test is to shoot a ladder target, a vertical line drawn up from the center of the target to top of the target. Shoot and adj elevation several clicks. If the bullets do not stay on the line as you crank up elevation the relationship of the front sight and rear sight is not true in the vertical plane. Or the rear sight doesn't crank straight up but at an angle. - One of the reason why the front sight barrel clamp was thought up and now used on all modern target rifles is to be able to adj the front sight in relationship to the rear sight to ensure the same no wind zero at all elevation settings. The old way of drilling and tapping holes to mount a sight block on the barrel wasn't adjustable and rifles then had different zeros at different yard lines. The photo is of a match rear sight and mounting block. Nice write up . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 I do something similar to what Blue does. Clamp the upper in my bench vise in the garage and aim it at the newspaper office across the street and zero the scope on what I see through the bore. It gets me pretty close. I'm far enough back in the garage that I don't think anyone over at the newspaper would even notice......................I think. Even if they did, I know all the cops around here! <lmao> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Nice to have a little leverage........or backup. <laughs> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnatshooter Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 I do something similar to what Blue does. Clamp the upper in my bench vise in the garage and aim it at the newspaper office across the street and zero the scope on what I see through the bore. It gets me pretty close. I'm far enough back in the garage that I don't think anyone over at the newspaper would even notice......................I think. Even if they did, I know all the cops around here! <lmao> Okay, so you're saying, you don't do this in your living room unless you're Bill Gates and can run the Winter Olympics in your living room. If you're zeroing for 100 yards do you need to see 100 yards through the bore? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 The distance I'm using is about 75 yards and it gets me easily on the paper at the range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 40/50 yds works fine :) Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N Jensen Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) The reason for a little distance when bore sighting is do to the height of the sight above the bore of the rifle. If the bore sight was done at say 25yds or closer, the first shot at 100 yds will be very high over the target, it would be like putting on 600yd to 800yds worth of elevation. In my older days of being in the AF we shot the M-16 qualification course at 25yds, in order for the bullet to height the aiming point on the target, the front sight had to be screwed down (elevation up) nearly to the bottom. If you have doubts about this, try shooting your AR sighted in at 100 or 200 yds at 25 feet and see how low the bullet strike on the target is below the aiming point. Edited March 7, 2014 by N Jensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketch Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 So far I've done all of above but found it just as easy to shoot at the dirt backer at the range just pick a spot and watch for the splash and adjust usually takes 3 shots and I'm on paper to make fine adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnatshooter Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Yeah bore sighting is so that you don't blow an extra $50 on gettin thngs right. One advantage I have is a bridge over a creek, instant feedback on sight errors. No matter what the game warden says, he was here back in 1998 for brats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.