survivalshop

There sold out already . Guess they got the info they wanted out of the preorder.

That hammer looks like its an extended hammer & may be why it hit the grip safety . A STD Combat Commander Hammer would have worked with that STD 1911 Grip safety Just get a Beaver Gripe Safety when you get a chance if you want more of the recoil spread over a wider area on the web of your hand . I have also seen the Grip safeties with a notch , just for the extended hammers . I like the frame also .

It seems like that now , but there is not much Bullseye left in the can , so not a problem putting it aside . They were dry . It is possible something got splashed in there , while it was in my loading bench , but what & how would be the question . I have had problems with these primers with different powders , bullets & calibers , but have never done this close of an examination & looking at what I see is , to me , it points to the primers . My reasoning is , at least 500 rounds of primers were used & had failure to fire on different calibers using them & no problems with same powder , bullets , with CCI or WW primers . The ammo was loaded over at least a year , maybe two , so I can not see it getting slashed or wet , as being that consistent with just those primers . I have Remington small rifle Bench rest primers & they have no problems . I'm going to take a magnifier to all the rest of them when I get a chance, I even have a 60x power magnifier for my iPhone .

I agree , its you !

Crazy , what will they think of next ?

So my friend calls me up & says , did you see the deal on CDNN for LWRC uppers ? I said no & he asked if it was a good deal , I said if thats what you want , ya , its a good deal ,so he ordered it up . Well I remembered the rifle I build with another friend last year & we used a LWRC lower I picked up many years ago & since he owed me money ,so I called him & offered to buy his lower & wipe out what he owed me & the friend would pay for one of the TM lowers I had & pay me off what what he owed . He asked if the TM was would work as good as his lower & I said its just a name & he jumped at it . Worked well for both of my friends & both liked the idea . One gets out of what he owes me & the other gets a LWRC lower for his LWRC piston upper .So I spent all morning switching out lower parts , because I got all new High Standard or Colt lower parts for the LWRC , I use High Standard parts as much as possible , some Colt parts are not in the " Made In USA " filter in Brownells. Put an ACT Combat FCG in & it started out @ 6 3/4 # , but really loosed up by the time I put a bunch of his ammo through it . Mine settled out @ 5 1/4# . so this one should make it some where around that number. Piston upper was very accurate , we put a Millet DMS scope he brought with him & it only took couple shots to get it dead on @ 100 , sorry no photo's of this range trip , I was helping other friends with sighting there hunting rifles in , I mounted a new scope for one . I did get to do a 30 rd. mag. dump on the LWRC though , no problem keep the pop can jumping @ 100 yards , it was fun .

The flat spring ( Trigger spring )puts tension on the Sear & Trigger & Grip Safety , each has a finger on that flat spring . Are you sure the spring is in correctly ? The tab on the Grip Safety may be missing the spring leaf or finger . If the spring is not putting enough pressure on the sear , it will not catch the Hammer Sear. There's a lot more to building a 1911 then there is in building most AR's of any type . When you get to the part where you set up the Grip Safety & hand Safety , pay very close attention to make sure they all work the way they are intended . When the Hand Safety is off , the grip safety is very important & you seldom get lucky that it all works properly , they seem to always need fitting in some way . Your trigger pull can be effected by the way its set up , not to mention the Safety's working .

I just took a good look at the bullets pulled from those 9mm loads with some dud primers & the Bullyseye Powder is stuck to them & when you scrape it off , its ether leaving some behind or its some kind of corrosion in the copper jacket . There had to be some kind of contamination , could something in the primer do this ? I've never seen anything like this , in ammo of any kind .

To be continued tomorrow .

I don't see it going anywhere soon . <thumbsup>

We have to keep the myth going , gives all the throw away rice burner bike owners something to talk about . <laughs>​

Stop . <laughs> I have one of there 308 Lowers in my safe.

Was the strut tight in the hammer before you put the pin in ? Meaning , was it stiff going into the Hammer .If not, polish the pin & the Pin holes , as was said . You can pop it back out & see if the Pin binds in the strut pin hole or the Hammer Pin hole . I have seen them loose enough to fall out & I have seen them tight , you want the pin to be stiff in the hammer & the strut to pivot on it , if you know what I mean . The strut is less expensive than the Hammer , so it can be the ware component . I put the pins in a drill press or a Battery operated dill mtr. can be used to polish them. You will have to use some kind of wrap around the pin , to protect the Pin from the chuck jaws . You don't have to worry about where the pin rests in the frame , but where it rides in its particular component . The Main spring should be stiff , but there are plenty of 1911 parts makers that have custom tuned spring sets available . You have to remember that you can get them too light & may not set off the primer , depending on brand . There is also a break in period of all the parts & parts will smooth up a bit with the round count of the pistol. The extractor face & claw area can also be polished to ease feeding , not to mention the feed ramp , also the freed ramp can be opened up a little for better feeding of hollow point bullets. The list can go on & on. There are plenty of Videos out there on tuning 1911 pistols .

Is there a Piston system specifically made for a 300 BLK ?

I believe there is probably more going on then a bad latch for the handle to come back on ya or it wasn't latched to begin with. Now scope eye, that's a whole different story . <laughs>

<lmao>

If you just rough up the outside of the slide for coating & leave the internal surfaces of the slide intact , would be all you need for keeping it slick on the places it needs to be . Makes you wonder if it will even adhere to the Treated slide .

Didn't you have a friends rifle that had a problem with the port door & what ever happened to that ? Did he get the QD Plastic one & did it work. Looks like the ball detent is already altering that upper receiver latch pocket & I would think a little lubricant would help it latch/unlatch easier . I'm with DNP , a fix for a non existing problem & the TacOps 1 works just fine . Just how is the charging handle being blown back into someones face , as said in the Video ? I've never heard of one doing that .

Make sure the extractor is in place correctly & the channel for the firing pin stop is aligned with the channel in the slide & extractor . You want it kind of tight. Emery cloth is very good for final polishing , take a week of sanding to take any material off . <laughs> Thats a small spring in that mag. release , cutting a it will be difficult . Polish every moving part , including the out side of the springs . You will find the main spring & its parts will make a big difference when polished . Also the tip of the Hammer spur , including the main spring hole in the Main Spring housing . I could go on for an hour or two . I'm used to making them tight for target use.

The first one looks like it has a detent in the charging handle & use spring pressure to hold a detent in the latch pocket in the Upper Receiver. Interesting . Edit , you posted that video while I was typing .

I think there are three Receiver rail height for DPMS 308's , the Target Tall one , the early low one ( compared to the Tall Target ) & their newest, lower one . The question is , which are they talking about , when they say low ? Low compared to the Target high rail or low compared to their original low rail height . <dontknow> There are Threads around here that give the measurements of the latter two , don't see too many of the real high target ones , although they are being used.

Try different brand ammo & different bullet weights . See how 168's , 175's ,even 150' gr. wt.'s work out & the low setting on the trigger second stage may or may not be a contributing factor .

Go Browns ! Thanks to the NE defense , I'm 1-3 in my Fantasy league , bastiges.

300HP

As was said in the article , its only a matter of time before ,DOJ gets in there business .