98Z5V

Never even heard of that before, and there's no way I'd use a gasket material for that job. Loc-Tite 609 is the only thing I've ever reliably heard of. Loc-Tite 609. Not "red loc-tite" or anything like that. 609.

Excelent work- that bottom pic is exactly what it should look like. You did it right. In the early 2000s, Cannondale (yes, the bicycle company) made some pretty badass MX motorcycles and ATVs. They were WAY ahead of their time, but were released too early from pressure from investors - there were bugs. We used to say, "Cannondale... Turning Racers into Mechanics since 2001..." They went under in 2003... We know the issues with the PSA Big ARs, and can fix every single issue that they ship the rifles with. Since they won't. Well done on your research, and what you've done already - you're WAY AHEAD of the "My PSA PA-10 doesn't work!" power curve, man. You've done well, already...

This thing came up in the last six months, and we talked about it. I think that it was purchased after that. Do a search on "PX10" and see if that topic comes up - it should.

Why yes, yes it would... hint, hint...

That day is already here. that product is out there, right now...

First Annual Bull Of The Woods... got my invite, hand delivered... This is the weekend before the Spring Shoot, too... This is from JB Matt, at his place... @Matt.Cross, I wish you were coming out the weekend before, brother...

Here's the story from the man that killed the mountain lion. Hand to Hand.

Watch that gas block area - tape it off. Don't go heavy in front of it, either. You'll never get that bitch on there. I'd install it, and tape IT up, so you don't have to worry about getting it on after paint. If it ever has to come off, smack that bitch with the deadblow hammer - drift it off with a piece of wood - until it chews up the paint in front of it and comes off - then repaint.

I think you nailed it. Well done, brother.

Be cautious right here... That speer .311" is the same as .310" from other people, you're okay with that, IF... does this thing shoot bulk Russian ammo? Regular old 7.62x39 you can get anywhere? If so, don't fire .308" diameter projectile through it, down the road... Stick with the .310s. You need to...

Header paint or BBQ paint are gonna be flat-black-as-fuk, though...

Touch up would be hella-easy, too. Header paint, BBQ paint, whatever.

There's a height difference (height over bore centerline) between .308ARs and AR15s. The Front Sight Base with bayonet lug os made for the AR15s/M16s/M4s. As far as I know, there isn't a company out there making a front sight base for .308ARs, which would require it to be taller than the AR15 part. Hence, the information that "you can't do that" is probably true, but it wasn't given to you with an explanation as to "why." If you built your .308AR with a 20" barrel, DPMS-based rifle gas system, and a .750" diameter gas block area, then you could install an AR15 front sight base - but you'd never be able to use that, with a flip-up rear sight on a .308AR. WAY different sight planes. It would be off exactly the difference between the height over bore of an AR15 and the height over bore of a .308AR. The only cure that I know of, for you, is a very, very specific mount, made by Geissele.

It's not lazy, man, not at all. In reference to mils, most scopes now have turret clicks on 0.1 mil increments (0.36" @ 100 yards), third of an inch is easy to calculate in your head. 500 is 1 2/3 per click, five thirds. The math goes well, but not like MOA and 1/4". Just make sure you look at the turret markings and the reticle, make sure they match. There are several scopes out there that are mil turrets and MOA reticle, or vice versa. Might have mildots in the reticle, and 1/4 MOa clicks on the turrets. That just sucks. I will say this, though - don't ignore a modern scope just because of the price on it - there are very, very good scopes out there that do not have the price of a NightForce, S&B, USO, etc. Athlon is another company that's just killin' the scope market, and not charging you the price of a good used vehicle...

I will find out. I've known this for a long time, since his popularity exploded - but that fuqr was in a mud hut in AFG beating the shiit out of a guitar with a buddy singing along, and it was fucking HILARIOUS!!! It was song after song, too, like a mini 2-dude concert, with laughter-tears flying everywhere...

I am DOWN WITH THAT, BROTHER!!! ALL THE WAY!!! You don't need a shoot date to get down here and get busy, either brother - ALL THE TIME is your time, and you are always welcome. Mi casa, su casa. If you could get down for a scheduled shoot, though, ... THAT WOULD BE FUCKING EPIC, BROTHER!!! Anytime, and I mean that, and always will. My home is your home, brother.

I have a long story on this, but I need to meet him again and confirm. I was in AFG on a deployment with this fuqr, and in some downtime, he and another guy were going batshit crazy on a guitar and singing- something about getting ass-raped by an alien... in a mud hut... in AFG... I need to reach out and find out the details. There is no other fuqr in 2/75 that was doing that - but him. It HAD to be him...

I love me some Sweet Baby Ray's, too - I think Neil slammed us for that?...

That's quite common around here - there's absolutely nothing to be sorry about...

Here's the PA 4-14 ACSS HUD DMR 308 scope, on my Rem 700 AAC-SD bolt gun, shooting elevated shots at distance - Matt literally handed me the gun, and I shot it. When he handed it to me, I had to ask him if it was already chambered... Climbed the hill. Sight through scope, estimate range, quick mental calculation on the elevation difference vs. observed distance - bang, hit. That's what a BDC scope can do for you. Or, just plain mils or MOA, with practice on them. BDC isn't mandatory- but it's quicker, when you know it.

Are you hooked on a BDC setup? You want something in mils or MOA, specifically, and will run your drop in mils or MOA at distance? I'll take BDC all day long, when it works for my load. Estimate the range and shoot - nothing is faster, once you know the reticle. I won't hesitate to run mils on other cartridges, though. I run mils on 300BLK, 25/45 and Grendel. Running mils on the .260. I'm comfortable enough with each of them, for their drop at distance, that I can "BDC" the mill drop right in the reticle for medium ranges (600-ish yards for some, 800-ish yards for others). That will be a determining factor. I have something in half your budget that is very, very good. However, my original recommendation for that cartridge still stands. PA 6/5C scope. For the cost of it, and the performance you're gonna get out of it, you can't go wrong, definitely. This was a brand new Grendel build, no rounds through it. 12 rounds to re-zero the PA mil-dot scope I raided from the 25/45, 10 rounds of confirmation on steel at 100, and it went right to 500 yards. Here's the confirmation target at 100 - rounds in the mouth: Here's the 500. Round #23 was a first round hit, low right. The next one was confirmation. Slight sight shift, and 8 more. That's just holding the mils, not dialing the scope in. 3.7 mils at 500 was my calculation, so I held about 3 3/4 mils. Bang, done deal. Need to know your preferences, now that the budget was revealed. By the way, that's a $225 PA scope there. Rifle on the right did the shooting, with the 16" barrel. Same exact PA scope on the rifle on the left, the 18" Grendel. They're both lasers.

^^^ What they said...

Glacier Black, brother. Graphite black is also a satin finish, but comes out with a hint of gray - like graphite. If you were doing H-series, I'd tell you Armor Black, then mix the right hardener ratio to it. That's the blackest black I've ever seen. Blacker than Triple Black Black Double Black. It's Black...

Yes, to an extent - zero information is in there for different cartridges, in order to get them to line up with the BDC. It's all listed in the individual scope instruction manuals.