98Z5V

Take pics of the right side of the lower receiver, clearly showing the mag catch button. You had an issue with a .308 mag catch not too long ago. If not properly installed, that can certainly cause the exact problem you're describing.

That is one damn nice setup, brother. Damn nice.

But?... will you shoot it if I buy it?...

I like the end of that article - sums it all up perfectly.

I think this case here is the opposite - BCG velocity too fast... What's happening to that empty case looks exactly like too much BCG speed, typically from overgassing. OP stated that's with the block 12 clicks, wide open. OP, when that happens to the brass, not clearing the chamber, what's the next round in the mag doing? Is it going into battery, or is the BCG over riding it? The ejector also needs to be removed and inspected...

^^^ He's 100% correct. Your parts list I quoted above is good. Verify the internal depth, and run it. The adjustable gas block is purely optional. Far from mandatory.

DAMN! That thing is SWEET!!!

Just what I thought - PSA is running the Armalite AR-10-lengthed carbine receiver extension. Never knew that until I was looking at sketch's rifle up close, trying to figure out a cycling issue. In your case, Merle, they at least got the buffer length correct - that length tube has to run an AR-15 carbine buffer, 3.25" long, and it should be an H3-weighted buffer. If it's NOT an H3-weighted buffer, then it's not gonna have enough weight for the Big AR to function properly. For sketch's gun, they had a damn 2.5" DPMS LR-based Carbine buffer in it, and that thing was causing all kinds of issues. The spring is WAY off. With that PSA setup, I'd honestly just buy the Armalite EA1095 spring from DSG Arms, and run with it. That spring WILL work with this setup. Check that buffer close - see if it's an H3. If it isn't, find an H3 buffer.

Welcome - do me a favor, if you can... You have the PSA PA-10 carbine receiver extension on that thing, right? Please measure the internal depth of that thing for me, and post the results. I'm curious about it. If you could also get the dimensions of the buffer length and the relaxed length on that buffer spring, that would be a bonus...

I'm a gigantic fan of the Grandmasters LLC Power Custom 10/22 triggers. I've got two of their titanium full action kits, and one trigger (only) assembly. Great stuff. The trigger-only one is in a full TacSol X-Ring 10/22. Damn is that thing light, even with a Nikon .22LR BDC 3-9 scope on it. Check out their stuff: http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36 This is really all you need from them, for a great 10/22 trigger: http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36&products_id=82

That handguard is damn near identical to the GunTec handguard I've got on the 25-45. Someone is making those things inexpensively, in mass quantities, and selling them to others. It's a quality handguard. That's a crazy price for the upper receiver, handguard (mounted) and that barrel. Damn.

That's an excellent case, Preacher - you did well.

I have alot of the VooDoo Tactical soft cases, in both 36" and 42". I love them for firearms transport over short-ish distances. I also have a ton of the Plano "Protector" Double Gun cases - plastic, foam lined, and one double-gun-case will hold a single scoped large-frame AR. For lockable hardcases, I have a couple of the Plano AW cases mentioned above - they are great. For FLYING weapons, I have Pelican hardcases. I wouldn't fly a weapon in anything but that. Plano "Protector" cases: http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/plano-protector-double-scoped-rifle-gun-case

Hydraulic buffers have seals that retain the hydraulic fluid. Seals, over time, will fail. There's no way around that. No seal lasts forever. When that happens, you will have a worthless buffer, whatever amount of money that expensive POS cost you, and a single-shot rifle. Don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit. My $0.02...

I did 12 years in rainy western WA, then ended up in AZ. Glad there's someone here that outlasted me in the rainy weather. Welcome aboard.

Then, why are you here?!!? Just to bitch?!!?

***My FDE Powers are growing stronger...***

Don't be sorry!!! It's not "beyond my imagination"!!! Faxon is filled with smart people, and it's hard to believe that would be sent to you, as obviously wrong as it is!!! People often come here with issues, then don't describe them accurately!!! If you knew how to use the gauges, then you would have known about the statement on the FIeld gauge in the first place!!! (Don't get all butthurt and upset at my writing style in this response!!! All I did was match your style throughout your posts here!!!)

This right here is pure awesome...

This quote is from your first post. This information is NOT correct. If you ever have anything that CLOSES ON THE FIELD GAUGE, then that is NOT safe to shoot. At all. No way. I don't know if you typed it up wrong, or what, but I can't imagine Faxon telling anybody that. The Field gauge is the last resort, and it's usually only used on in-service weapons. Most firearms should headspace on the Go gauge, not close on the No-Go. Some might close on the No-Go. After higher round counts, some weapons might now close on a No-Go gauge - and that is when you resort to the Field gauge. If it still passes on the Field (does NOT close on it), then that weapon is still serviceable, but your accuracy might suck.

I'll have one someday. I'm also torn between the Scout and the SOCOM model. Whichever one it is, it'll have this stock, though... (Who knew?...)

I started with Jeeps. And mototcycles/quads. It doesn't end...

You'll only need a few, and you can pick them up from Ace Hardware or Lowe's. The Irwin numbered bits, sold individually. Focus on the bits between 0.080" and 0.095". I highly, highly doubt you'll need to go higher than 0.095". Looks for these: (Number 47 through number 41 will do what you need done. )