98Z5V

sounds like a cartoon?...

Perfectly fine. Sling Lead. <thumbsup> DAMN nice looking rifle!

Surf the web, brother, figure out what color(s) you want, and let me know. I need to make another paint order soon anyway. I have another 308AR gonna need some Patriot Brown soon. :))

No, thank YOU, brother. <thumbsup>

Yep. When we'd get consecutive light strikes, we'd notice accuracy drop. Turn the rifle in to the Armorer, and tell him what was up - like, leave the range and hit up the Armorer right then. Return to the range, fire up the rifle, and everything was fixed. He'd $hitcan all the springs in the lower. Replace with new Colt springs. Weak hammer springs aren't going to move the hammer as fast (as well as cause light strikes). That's Lock Time. Extra strength hammer springs will make the hammer even faster, and decrease Lock Time a little more, but there is a trade off. Lock Time is the time it takes for the hammer to ignite the primer, from trigger release. The longer the Lock Time is, the more chances you have to fuk with the rifle - move it off target, fidget, sneeze, $hit some britches, whatever. The faster the Lock Time is, the less chance you have of influencing that rifle in the wrong way.

I can direct you right to Steve and Trina Meeks, that ran your course. They also have a training place in Casa Grande, brother. <thumbsup>

They test fire them. You get them dirty so that YOU know they test fire them. Fear not. That $hit is normal from a good company. <thumbsup> EDIT - it got a Proof Round. MUCH higher pressure than "real ammo," so it's gonna look like it's had a bunch fired through it. It's had that Proof Round through it.

Don't worry about it - regardless of how bad we've fucked the OPs thread all up - that is a NICE .458! <lmao>

Call Fulton Armory. Ask for Clint. Want for him to come to the phone. Ask Clint any questions you have about this part that you bought from him.

:eek:

<lmao> Having hard time with her, lately... I'll get to it, one way or another... :hethan:

^^^ I've had that happen, too, on "new" cut down brass. After I've fired it for the first time (fire-formed it), I haven't had it happen. If you set your die up wrong, you can CREATE that situation. Found that out when I first started making my own brass... :banana:

Robo wasn't directing that at you, Blazen. He was directing that at the OP, who was asking about a scope - when you jumped into his thread with a .458 SOCOM rifle... <lmao> You thread-jacked it, then thought the provided information was for you... <laughs>

Fuk, I like this guy already... :hethan: The LMT BCG and bolt are VERY good quality. Hang onto it, and make it work. <thumbsup> Use the gauges and check it. If it doesn't clear for some reason, figure out a bolt that will headspace in that barrel, and run that correct bolt in the LMT bolt carrier. EDIT: LMT - Lewis Machine & Tool. They've made the M203 for the military for years. They know what they're doing.

:wwop:

I think the new barrel isn't seated in the upper. Difference in the diameter of the barrel index pin, or something like that.

Yep. Initiate with violence of action. Follow up and clear the objective. Initiate with the largest weapon you have, decisively, and violently. When you truly initiate with violence of action - the objective will usually shrink... <thumbsup> Reminds me directly of this:

^^^ Hell fucking YES!

I put some damage on his stock when he visited. I can't remember how mny he ordered, but I snatched my 20. :banana:

Ed, hit the MSF Basic Rider's Course and ride the Rebel 250s they have. You'll very quickly realize that you don't want to own one of those, as yours. Some courses have other bikes, too. Local ones here have the Rebels, Kawi Vulcan 125s (the BN125), and Kawi KLX250 dirt/street bikes. When you get to the course, get there early, and pretty much ask if you can use a specific bike - they'll let you. After that, buy a used bike for your first bike. After riding BRC, you'll kind of get an idea of what you might like, and definitely what you don't like. Hit that course first, then try to narrow down what type of bike you want to buy. If you buy used, there are many advantages - cheaper insurance for a new rider, no break-in period, ride it without as much worries. You also have disadvantages - you don't really know what you're buying, besides what the seller is telling you. It might need work, ir might fall apart, and you have no factory warranty period. If you buy used, there are advantages - most manufacturers have a 12-month factory warranty that covers pretty much anything. Keep in mind, if it's something the rider could have caused, or could have prevented, then it's not covered. Tires, brakes, clutch - not covered. Pretty much everything else is covered. There are new bike disadvantages, too - higher initial purchase price, higher insurance rates for new riders, and when you scratch that thing, you're gonna be pissed. New parts cost a hell of alot of money, with body panels and gas tanks that will shock you on prices! When that new bike gets dinged up, and you make an insurance claim on it, it'll cost alot to fix, and you're making a claim as a new rider... I'd suggest buying used for the first one, get a few years of skills under you, then buy something new down the road. Things to think about...

Damn, that 458 is nice!

If I ever get chambering issues with a certain batch of 300 reloads, I always look at the headstamp on the brass. I won't use Federal at all, stopped using PRVI because the bases would expand after two reloads. I've had some PMC that was tough to chamber, and it was the wall thickness on the mouth (new location, now, after cutting down). Overall, the PMC brass is good brass. It only happened on 6 or 8 of them. Pulled the decapping rod out of the sizer die, and made one pass with them. Problem solved. For 300BLK, the only brass I'll use anymore is Lake City. I don't have any issues loading the LC brass, it's more consistant, and it's lasting longer.

Just a standard carbine end plate? Grips screws, plenty of grip screws. Shoot me a PM with your shipping address, and I'll just send them out to you. <thumbsup>

1/8". That's the measurement. 0.125".