98Z5V

They did originate from the Department Of Redundancy Department...

And you want it, and you know it, and you haven't bought it for WHAT reason?... Huh?... <dontknow>

These 3 threads just need to be combined. It’s ridiculous. This one is the original thread, got so big that we had to start a Part 2. Everything fits in this category. What do you have on order or in the mail, Part 2: These other two thread were started by Ed, as some kind of sick fascination, because he thought his stuff didn’t fit into the original thread: What did you get in the mail today: What did you buy today: Mods/Admins, this is an easy task to take on. Get into your Admin Control Panel, and select threads to “merge”. When you merge them, all the date/time stamps still coordinate themselves. It’s one flowing thread. You have to select the primary thread to merge "with" as the first thread. That would be the first link above. Sorry Ed, you need to keep your boner in check, and fit your schit into the original thread. It’s cleaner that way.

Thought I mentioned that previously.

There he goes again with that crazy "move out of AZ" talk... :bat: <laughs>

So did I... <lmao>

Those are very, very scary-similar to the Ruger GSR poly mags, which I couldn't get to run in my 700. The bolt won't pick up a round, every single time. I am seeing some differences in the feedlips on the ones you posted, which isn't the same as the poly GSR mags. I need to pick one of these up and compare it to the poly GSRs. If they run, I'm in. <thumbsup> EDIT - the more I look at them, there's a significant difference in the feedlips on those MDT mags, over the poly GSR mags.

I almost spit a beer all over my computer... <lmao>

The buffer is the correct length, but seems light as hell for a .308 AR application. Need more weight, for sure. Spring seems short, from available references.\ My bet on the lock-back problem - the CMMG lower parts kit, specifically, the bolt catch.

I'm down with that. You have to explain to your wife why I won't leave, though... <lmao>

Bottom line: That should be the correct combination. Pull your buffer and measure it's length, please report back. Pull your spring, measure it's relaxed length, please report back. EDIT - Where did you get these parts from (what vendor), and did you buy them as a kit?

Eff that. Kill a deer and save your life.

The one with the guitar was hilarious! <lmao>

Not yet, brother. I vote that Jon works that weekend, and we hit Marana. My "secret desert test facility" is always open, too. I'm up for anything.

Welcome aboard, and congrats on the retirement! I got out before Obummer was deemed Dear Leader, so I commend you on being able to suffer through that bull$hit. Right on, man. <thumbsup> EDIT - because I really want that to say bull$hit, and not be censored... <lmao>

Mal, how many times you gonna welcome this guy?... <lmao>

Yes, a great 2-stage trigger would make a world of difference - you won't believe the difference until you shoot it for the first time. Dry firing that mil-spec trigger will only make you more proficient in pulling a heavy-pull, gritty trigger system. You'll end up proficient on that trigger - as proficient as you can be on a mil-spec trigger. In the long run, that trigger is not helping your accuracy, no matter how good you are on it. It certainly is a hindrance for accurate shooting. I highly recommend the Geissele SSA-E trigger (non-adjustable). If you really, really like it, move later to the Geissele Hi-Speed DMR or Match triggers (adjustable). Excellent write-ups so far - both are very good. <thumbsup>

Awesome taxidermy job!!! For those that aren't aware, THIS is what deer are actually like...

Try taking it in at an angle. I've seen the flare in the end of the gas tube not fit through the four prongs in the gas tube hole in the upper, a few times. Only way to get the tube through there is at an angle. Good thing your tube is already out of your gas block, because it has to be, to do this. Try it like the angle in the pic below (red line). Once you get it into the upper, and you lower it to get it in the gas block - if it binds on the barrel nut, you will have to notch the barrel nut.

Gas block should be standard - nothing special there, as long as the diameter is right. Armalite gas tubes are longer than DPMS-based gas tubes. If you're changing a barrel, the gas block will come off the old barrel anyway, and putting in a new gas tube is easy.

Yep. Make sure you headspace it, still.

It's nice and balmy right now. You'll be okay, brother. <thumbsup>

Rene has a serious boner for a 14.5" .308AR right now... <lmao>

Just the forensics of it - especially low-power loads. Typical load should travel at "x" speed, cause "x" type of injury at "x" distance, leave "x" amount of powder at "x" distance... Low power loads - just like the example in the article linked above - you cap a shitbag at 7 yards, but the low-power load leaves residue like factory ammo at 20 yards... You say you shot the shitbag at 7 yards. His two buddies say you were arguing at 20 yards, and they weren't approaching you. What does the data say? Can the defense team recreate the situation, with the remaining ammo in your firearm? Nope, you emptied the mag. Now, you go home to grab more ammo - and everything has been confiscated already... You tell them that the load you shot the shitbag with was from "xxx" batch. Prosecution says, "He can create any deadly combination he wants, obviously..." Bottom line, if they push it, is that you're fucked. Stick to factory ammo in carry guns and duty work. One less thing for them to F you in the A with. Besides, you won't look "shady" to the jury - the prosecution is going to try to make you look shady as fuk anyway, you can count on that...

Read up - these are just examples of defensive situations - now imagine it as an offensive situation, conducted by trained law enforcement. The prosecution team would LOVE your handloads... http://www.gundigest.com/gun-blogs/books/handloads-not-a-good-idea-for-concealed-carry http://john-ross.net/comments.php