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WARNING! IMI GARBAGE From MIDWAY!!!!


jtallen83

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8 minutes ago, guruofhotrod said:

Natchez is running Federal Independence XM193 on sale @ $299.99/1000 with free shipping through midnight tonight

http://enews.natchezss.com/q/T-tVO7JYSfWgsERx4KAyiXD8Ksnj6l3c5p8Kmk9cQaC4fGoQkQEPkKRcc

I almost bought some of this from PSA at $5.99 a box but the reviews mentioned blown primers and real hot loads.........

From SGammo "XM193i Ammunition is an ideal 5.56 ammo choice for shooting in your AR-15 rifle. This ammo is made by IMI in Israel under contract for Federal ammunition / ATK. Independence XM193i is one of the best types of all purpose target ammo for training, range use, or just shooting for fun."

Reviews from PSA;

"Have shot over 200 rds on my AP lower with PSA premium complete upper. Had 10+ primers popping off the casing and casing all sorts of failure: failure to eject bc primer from previous rd jammed the next rd, jammed trigger because popped primer fell into the lower. "

"Purchased 5 boxes of this ammo and after loading and firing one box at the range I had three blown primers. This ammo is loaded stupid hot. Primers blew out of the cases and left carbon burns on the rear of those cases one of which became lodged in my barrel extension. Heavy extractor swipes, even on the cases that did not blow primers. Luckily no damage to my Stag Arms AR. Contacted Federal and they provided a prepaid shipping label to send this ammo back, after testing they sent me 5 new boxes of American Eagle. Google issues with Independence 5.56 and you'll find an assortment of issues with this ammo. Stick with Federal Lake City surplus or PMC this is junk and dangerous at that."

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Hot factory (over)loads, blown primers, etc., ... yes indeed this is why I always wear eye protection and I only hunt with ammo that I've at least tried a few rounds of on the range.

Somebody gets a blown chamber or other pieces back and through the eye I'm sure the DOT restrictions will be severely challenged. :bat:

This stuff is dangerous and yes Midway should pull it all ASAP.

Must've had an interesting day at the ammo plant when this lot(s) was moving down the line.

 

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1 hour ago, guruofhotrod said:

Natchez is running Federal Independence XM193 on sale @ $299.99/1000 with free shipping through midnight tonight

http://enews.natchezss.com/q/T-tVO7JYSfWgsERx4KAyiXD8Ksnj6l3c5p8Kmk9cQaC4fGoQkQEPkKRcc

Not meaning to hijack the thread ...

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong; isn't XM193 ammo a sort of military spec rejects from a lot(s) of M193, or the other way around?

Interesting as I've never heard of XM/M193i.  Can anyone fill me in on what the "i" designation is?

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They can't call it M193 because that denotes it has been accepted by the military. The X and the I added on does not mean it is rejected stuff just hasn't been through the military acceptance system. It can be good stuff but could also be junk. Strictly a marketing thing. In my experience the Federal XM193 in LC brass has always been good stuff.

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10 hours ago, jtallen83 said:

They can't call it M193 because that denotes it has been accepted by the military. The X and the I added on does not mean it is rejected stuff just hasn't been through the military acceptance system. It can be good stuff but could also be junk. Strictly a marketing thing. In my experience the Federal XM193 in LC brass has always been good stuff.

 

9 hours ago, guruofhotrod said:

I think the letter designation at the end indicates packaging

Thanks gents :thumbup:

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I HATE reloading that Federal XM193 brass.  The first time sucks.  Getting the primer crimp out of that shiit will drive a man crazy.  The crimp is so damn tight that the primer pockets get deformed inward - it even "sticks" on my RCBS Swager 2 tool...  I've had more than 1 probably 4 or 5 decapping pins break off trying to get the primers out...

After that first time, though - it's good brass.  It's just alot of work...

Edited by 98Z5V
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8 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

I HATE reloading that Federal XM193 brass.  The first time sucks.  Getting the primer crimp out of that shiit will drive a man crazy.  The crimp is so damn tight that the primer pockets get deformed inward - it even "sticks" on my RCBS Swager 2 tool...  I've had more than 1 probably 4 or 5 decapping pins break off trying to get the primers out...

After that first time, though - it's good brass.  It's just alot of work...

I use a dedicated depriming die. But then again I don't think I have ever reloaded any Federal XM193 brass. Have done Remington, Squires and Bingham, PMC XTAC, Winchester, and Lake City, and a bunch more. Will watch for that. 

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15 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

I HATE reloading that Federal XM193 brass.  The first time sucks.  Getting the primer crimp out of that shiit will drive a man crazy.  The crimp is so damn tight that the primer pockets get deformed inward - it even "sticks" on my RCBS Swager 2 tool...  I've had more than 1 probably 4 or 5 decapping pins break off trying to get the primers out...

After that first time, though - it's good brass.  It's just alot of work...

This may be a crazy question (note: I'm not a reloader) but would it be possible to use heat to maybe ease them out or maybe drill them out somehow?

Just a thought ... 

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10 minutes ago, GRA said:

This may be a crazy question (note: I'm not a reloader) but would it be possible to use heat to maybe ease them out or maybe drill them out somehow?

Just a thought ... 

Nah, not really - those primers are crimped in there on all NATO brass, but there's no standard for the "crimping" that needs to be performed.  LC uses the best method, IMHO, with a 4-corner crimp. I don't know what the hell Federal does, but they sure make sure those primers don't come out...

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Just now, 98Z5V said:

Nah, not really - those primers are crimped in there on all NATO brass, but there's no standard for the "crimping" that needs to be performed.  LC uses the best method, IMHO, with a 4-corner crimp. I don't know what the hell Federal does, but they sure make sure those primers don't come out...

Right but I was wondering if it's possibly some special glue or sealant.  What made me think to ask this was I recalled removing the driveshaft from a Ford Ranger and the manual stated you and to apply heat to bust thread sealant on the u-joint u-bolt threads before you could loosen them.  I was just wondering if a couple passes over with a small hand-held butane torch might help in this same manner.

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There is sealant around the case mouth, when you pull bullets - .mil requirement; All .mil ammo is waterPROOF down to 250 feet.  And you can see colored sealant on .mil ammo at the primer, usually red or green - but that shiit doesn't affect how you prep brass from LC, or any other mil-spec ammo...

Federal ammo fucking sucks to process.  It's that simple.  It looks like you guys haven't processed that much of it - try that Fed XM193, and tell me what you think. You'll see what I'm talking about.  Have some spare decapping pins ready...  :lmao:

fornicate that ammo.  :bitchslap:

 

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