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Changed handguard now charging handle locks


Fmtreading

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@Fmtreading

Couple tools you may want to invest in. The No Mar blocks hold the upper very secure in a big vise, you can get plenty of torq on a upper with these in this flat configuration.  Also hold the upper pinned in the vertical orientation for assembly and optics and such.

 

20201005_142736.thumb.jpg.9187430e4a91996d12aa308fe8cbfe04.jpg

Also barrel nut wrench from Spikes, 100 times stronger then the pot metal "armorer tool"

20201005_142437.thumb.jpg.0a50983011baac77daa2b8608c04721a.jpg

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Just now, Ravenworks said:

Pretty much

Cheap Chinese aluminum meets a  Henry Ford spanner,  what's not to like.

And he had the balls to post the photo, make me wish I had taken pictures of all my fuk ups instead of just the cool stuff! What a thread that would be, probably run out of storage space on the server!

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@blue109 unfortunately yes I did have the bcg installed when I did all this I should have taken parts out while working on it.poop there's a lot of things I would do differently about this if I could go back in time.there's some pics if you want detailed pics of just cam ill be happy to do so i checked it first day i realized my mistake.20200924_025441.thumb.jpg.464246a71ea1819ea354419858d650b5.jpg

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If anyone wants specific pictures I'll take this rifle apart im thinking either one of three things or a combination i messed up the upper i messed up the lower i bent the front receiver pins.Why because when I put torque on it the barrel nut took the most of the force.So would eliminate the internals from getting twisted causing the pressure to go on the lower where pins go or on the upper receiver.

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On 10/4/2020 at 10:05 AM, Fmtreading said:

I'm in Illinois and I have one its in the picture I posted.i know the plastic piece ain't supposed to be in the magwell just like the whole lower wasn't supposed to be there.I did it like that as i suspected 30lbs won't be enough to mess something up it was off by less than a quarter inch i pushed it and threw the receiver off now it don't function properly and no one i know can help.So I was hoping someone could diagnose it.By saying yea thats this or that but like anything its hard to be exact from a far like a doctor diagnosing someone over the internet or a mechanic over the phone its a hard thing to do.What I need is someone with knowledge i can physically go to and watch and learn yea there's YouTube but I prefer the real world hands on i think YouTube is my only way to learn.

20201004_100637.jpg

Where in Obamastan?? I live in Central Obamastan? you need some serious help at this stage. I will give you my gun guys phone # if you want, he's a former marine, local cop, and a very straight up guy, he's got the blocks and wrenches. I'll even call him and give you an introduction, it's possible you've got something slightly out of kilter, that can be "tweaked" to bring it back into operating spec... but more than likely your first hunch that you have seriously "tweaked" your upper or lower, or both is probably where we are headed....

We are here because in your desire to "improve" your weapon ( a noble desire that, but engineers may actually know more than we give them credit for) and in your zeal to do so, you Bubba dat girl, and she mad, she may not ever play nice wit you again... so playin it straight, like your ole Gpa, "when you are in deep shiite, over your head, don't let your knot headed desire to "figure it out on your own", cause you to drown in it... as you have already demonstrated, aluminum does NOT like to to be beat on or twisted, it just don't... Aluminum is a light, pretty metal that is best for making beer cans and aeroplanes. Note that all the really important parts on your weapon, BCG, Barrel, etc. etc. are made out of good ole US STEEL, those two big pieces of aluminum just keep them socializing in a polite and expeditious manner.

Don't even think about lighting this weapon off until you have it squared away, and back in operating condition. Your kids need a fully functioning DADDY, a lot more than you need to do any more experimenting, so lets get this girl in, and get her checked out, if it goes into battery on the first round? and then locks up when you manually attempt to cycle the action, its possible your are putting it in some kind of a bind... an AR is a magnificent weapon, and in all actuality, its function is rather brutal and requires a lot of gas and timing to function properly, and as some here have begun to grow weary telling us, it all has to be balanced...

shoot me a pm, shoot me your telly, we can talk about it, if your close? you can bring it by?? but more than likely, you need somebody to hook a chain on your butt and pull you out of the deep serious shiite! first you've got to get out, then you can fix whats broke, yes its been an expensive lesson, makes you mad, beat it with a pipe wrench mad, now its time to pick up the pieces, clean it all up, get it all lined up, and let somebody who understands how it should work, fix it for ya...

and yeah, I got lots of broke shiite out behind the barn, and I buried a hell of lot more of it when I buried my "junk ditch"! so I do understand, I really do... billy

Edited by billymagg
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10 hours ago, Fmtreading said:

locks down on 2nd but not first round

That is the kicker, isn't it.

Not being there in person, the only difference between the 1st and 2nd is the position of the charging handle.

Please verify: 

When you charge the first round, are you dropping the bolt with the bolt release or pulling the charging handle all the way back and dropping it.

Second round, pulling the CH all the way back I assume. 

Something to try, in the interest of science, 4 things:

1.) First round will the forward assist move the BCG forward after chambering the round.

2.) Second round: lower the CH to the bolt catch, engage the bolt catch, lower the CH all the way down, drop bolt w/ BC

3.) Second round slowly lower the CH a little past the bolt catch before releasing it. 

4.) First round "Rubber Band" it, pull the CH as far back as possible and let it drop fast from full back position.

Maybe these checks will point us in a particular direction. 

Also, without the recoil spring,( but with buffer )how much space do you have between the bolt catch and the face of the bolt?

#10 on the waterboarding thread.

 

 

 

10.) BCG Clearance at the ears and bolt stop

BoltClearance.thumb.jpg.286268a1ae76e53c158d057d2b3619d2.jpg

BoltClearance2.thumb.jpg.69ace335aa3e07d55e00adf326586509.jpg

 

 

AL

Edited by Albroswift
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  • 2 weeks later...

I want to thank everyone for the time spent trying to figure out my issue my first hypothesis was correct.It was the upper that was warped as I added pressure it threw off the barrel alignment so as the bcg would charge 2nd time it would lock into the forward position rendering the rifle be locked into place.I swaped the old with a new luth upper.It now can cycle 30 rounds no stalling,locking,double feed nothing but pure music to my ears shells eject in perfect trajectory I can now take it out to range for live fire and to hunt Just in time.

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5 hours ago, Fmtreading said:

I want to thank everyone for the time spent trying to figure out my issue my first hypothesis was correct.It was the upper that was warped as I added pressure it threw off the barrel alignment so as the bcg would charge 2nd time it would lock into the forward position rendering the rifle be locked into place.I swaped the old with a new luth upper.It now can cycle 30 rounds no stalling,locking,double feed nothing but pure music to my ears shells eject in perfect trajectory I can now take it out to range for live fire and to hunt Just in time.

Go back over everything in your recoil system, man, and spec it all out.    I picked up on something in your pic below...  - Unless this is @Albroswift's pic... 

On 10/6/2020 at 6:31 AM, Albroswift said:

 

BoltClearance2.thumb.jpg.69ace335aa3e07d55e00adf326586509.jpg

^^^   Looks like that BCG was making contact with the lower, during firing.  You can see the marks on the ears of the lower, and also on the BCG where it steps up in diameter.

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