EasyEJL Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 So last night I went to install my barrel nut, the custom one that came with the MRF rails from Troy. The problem I ran into was that torqued to 30lbs the "points" on the nut where the wrench connects blocked the gas tube hole on the receiver on the left side, and raising the torque to 50 only made it worse, closer to the right side but just past center. In the end after going back and forth a bunch, I left it torqued to 30 and was just able to get the gas tube through. Is that ok/normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 You should put your barrel nut on and off 2 or 3 times before you really lock it down. The metal needs to stretch like a pair of jeans. It's also ok to hit the threads with anti-seizing goop before final install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EasyEJL Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 I just backed it off some and retightened 5 or 6 times. took it off entirely only once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 (edited) Like Robo said too. I use the "coppery" type of anti-sieze compund. Not alot.....just a light coating. BUT, wait until you're ready to try and lock it down before you apply the stuff. You don't want that poop on your hands. It won't hurt you.....but the only thing that really takes it off completely is time. Edited March 18, 2013 by Rsquared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StainTrain Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 My MI Gen2 on one of my ARs was a tightening/loosening fiasco. I used enough moly grease to shove a suburban through a keyhole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 TIghten, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen - you'll hit it. If the barrel nut and the threads on the upper receiver are NOT lubed, you'l just make it harder on yourself. The torque spec is 30~80lb/ft. Somewhere between 30 and 80, you'll hit it. Don't try it with dry threads. You'll gall the poop out of everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EasyEJL Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Yeah, I put a nice synthetic grease on it. I'll take the gas block off and try some more then :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray05 Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I emailed SI Defense (they manufactured my upper receiver) and asked for their input on what to put on the threads when installing a barrel but. "We use blue Loctite in some instances on the barrel nut."~excerpt from their response pertaining to this issue This is different from anything I've read. Particularly what y'all have indicated here. I planned on buying some ""coppery" type of anti-sieze compund", but now I'm inclined to use the blue loctite. Looking for some input here. I'm pretty new to all this and I'm the wrong kind of engineer to know much about machined parts interacting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue109 Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Never used locktight, and don't think it's necessary. I've used anti seize that I have laying around for my spark plugs, and black lithium grease that was leftover from an engine build. Never came loose on it's own, and comes apart when I want it to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I used some lithium grease. I change my mind too often to use loctite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Nope on the locktite .......moly,lithium,plain ol bearing grease.....but not locktite....you have plenty of rotational space between 30 and 80 lbs of torque....I try and go for around 60 lbs or so....:) Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 I use the "coppery" kind of anti-sieze that you mentioned. But a good grease would be just fine also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Question - why would you need loctite when the gas tube already prevents the nut from turning? Seems silly to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Not all barrel nuts have hole in them for a gas tube to pass through - but that doesn't matter. You NEVER need loc-tite on a barrel nut. No matter what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolndie7 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 We used to take the silver anti-seize and gently brush it on a co workers keys that were silver. <lmao> Holy Sh** by the time they noticed it was all over the freakin place. But you didnt hear that from me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray05 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Very helpful responses. I've emailed SI back for more clarification on the matter. Loctite seems crazy to me. That was not what I was expecting at all. I'll post back if they respond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 We used to take the silver anti-seize and gently brush it on a co workers keys that were silver. <lmao> Holy Sh** by the time they noticed it was all over the freakin place. But you didnt hear that from me. Cops do the same thing with fingerprinting dust. It's actually magnetic and will attach to everything, like fine graphite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray05 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Cops do the same thing with fingerprinting dust. It's actually magnetic and will attach to everything, like fine graphite. Sounds like I'm in the wrong line of work. Pranks are nonexistent at my workplace. Probably a quick way to get fired. Maybe it's worth a try anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Best work prank is shutting off the toilet water, then giving it one last flush. The next guy drops a log on a dry bowl. Once rigged the stall door so it wouldn't stay shut. Had to hold it closed while poopin. Best ever... refilled a purell bottle (hand sanitizer) with ky jelly. Watch with glee as they try to rub that shiit in. Lol All harmless fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 There was this guy was a big musclehead goes to take a dump and one of the guys put's ammonia on the floor.His face was as red as his a$$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolndie7 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Ok ok I think we need to start an official work place prank and make it a sticky ::) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Manufacturers use a loctite on Gas blocks & gas key screws( instead of straking them) also .The whole design from Mr. Stoners & crew was that the gas tube was to keep the barrel nut from loosening & have some find of way for a tool to attach it , making a barrel nut that is not configured to allow that feature ,may indeed some type of lock set to keep if from backing off. My PRI Muzzle Brake kept loosening after a day at the range & after calling them , they said to use loctite & I used the Blue removable & it has not loosened since & that was a few years ago, so it may have some merit . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) In one of my past jobs, I put up official-looking made-up name tags on empty office cubicles: Ho Lin Wan, Hoo Fung Poo, Goh Fook Yue, Sze Yew Fatt...... etc. Upper management walked by and asked if I'd met the "new" guys yet.....which was quickly followed by muffled giggles from my guys in the next cubes over. (Fun stuff you can do when you have a vinyl cutter) Edited March 6, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 ^^^^ Love it. <laughs> <lmao> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebra644 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) TIghten, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen - you'll hit it. If the barrel nut and the threads on the upper receiver are NOT lubed, you'l just make it harder on yourself. The torque spec is 30~80lb/ft. Somewhere between 30 and 80, you'll hit it. Don't try it with dry threads. You'll gall the poop out of everything. EXACTLY or you have the same issue I did with my recent install. Even Noveske on the NSR Rail, states to use a grease on the barrel nut threads and you may need to tighten loosen.Thier brand specific Torque specs are 40-80 lbs. Mine was done at like 35 and after 100 rnds of frustration it came loose. Redone to 80 and wnd Ill be at the range this weekend. I'll post thr results on my other thread as not to thread jack ^-^ Edited March 6, 2014 by Zebra644 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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