survivalshop

I always recommend a single stage press for beginners mostly because you have to do one stage of the reloading operation at a time . It lets you study the operation & components more closely because you have your hands on them more ,where as a progressive , they some times get out of sight in different operations . For a seasoned reloader that is not much of a problem because you have a feel for it , when things don't feel right & stop to inspect . And yes things go wrong more on progressives because more is happening at on stroke of the lever. Another thing is initial cost , the single stage system will be less to get started with , then if you don't care for reloading ( yes it happens ) your not out that much to begin with. I drank the kool aid & Dillon is what I would recommend for a progressive press & the RL 550B is a manual progressive & can be used as a single stage if you want to start out like that. Don't let any one tell you that you can't put out quality ammo with a progressive press. Attention to detail & quality components , are the keys to produce great shooting ammo .

I picked up a Mossberg bolt action this year in 308 , nice rifle , have not had much time to play with it yet . All black with fluted bbl..

2620-2630 ,is that with 175SMK's ? Did you chromo the Noslers ? If so what was the Vol. ? The primer blowing out is not a good thing . Heavy bullets tend to flatten the primers. Barrel , well that's a difficult diagnosis , making a cast the chamber will tell what the true dimensions are. It may have a tight chamber ? I have seen or heard of this , or some thing like it before , just don't remember the cause or what was found.

Just think of all the testing I will be able to do now that working for some one else is out of the way . By the way , that's a hint to all the manufacturers out there. <dontknow> :auto:

I thought they were all roll crimp . I have RCBS FL dies sets that are very old & brand new & they all have the same wording in instructions . They just mention crimping , nothing about Taper crimping . I have special Taper crimp dies for .30 & .223 calibers. I can't find the ones that came with my SB die sets , but they will probably not be different.

Shouldn't make a difference ,unless looks of the serrated one is not wanted . I suppose you can have one custom made , wow.

Yep, its what I replaced them with .

Yes , for the most part , as long as they are the same as the barrels gas block size. 0.750 " etc..

I have had two DPMS bolt catch screws crack on me, the bolt catches were also loose. I'm not sure using loc tite on that screw is a good idea. Hard place to work with , if it won't break free . If you are concerned about it backing out , just use a little on the end of the screw after you have installed it . That way if need be , it can be removed where you can see it . Heat always helps if you have problems with it .

Trigger for sure , you can make do with the rest & change them as you see fit . There are a bunch of good triggers out there now a days. Gisselle SSA & others will make a big difference . Stock is an easy switch out to one you like better & most of us are fans of free float hand guards. I don't own an AR in any caliber with out one .

16.6 grs. of H110 , with the 150 SP. avg. Vol. 1900 fps & I don't think it is a compressed load ,but close . 19 grs. of H110 , with the 150 SP. didn't get much more out of this cartridge , avg. Vol. 1974 fps., no idea why . 19 grs. of H110 with a Barnes 110 gr. TSX bullet , shot real nice groups , Avg. Vol. 2341 fps, ES - 24 fps , SD - 9 fps. I seated the 150 gr. SP up to the crimp grove ,but no crimp . I now have a Lee Factory Crimp Die for the BLK ,but have not tried it yet .I have about a hundred cases ready to trim , but will wait till I get back from my extended hunt camp this year , I retire on the 22nd of Nov.. I also use WW296 which is the same as H110

I use H110 & I'm getting to like the 110 gr. bullets lately ,125's have shot good also . The 110's are little speedy buggers though . I have Chrono. results from 150 , 130 , 125 & 110's with H110.

I have a couple of different brands , as far as I know they all work , but we have to trust the manufacturer to keep to HS gage spec's.

What you need to find out is , what's different about your compressed loads that let them work . Short chamber or not. Check the head space of the chamber & that will tell you if it is out of spec's.

Nice . All the hunters I talk with are always into "The Big Buck " they want to shoot . I have never been one of those types & hunt for meat . Nothing wrong with it , if you want bragging rights , but my belly has always came first. I will shoot a meaty small racked buck in a heart beat. I hunt in Ohio , which is shotgun or muzzle loader only , sure wish I could take one of my AR's to hunt . I'm jealous.

interesting .

Did you do the one round in the mag fire test to see if the bolt catch works to hold the bolt back on empty mag. ? This test will tell you if your BCG is coming back far enough . It could be coming back too far & fast & not letting the empty case out of the upper receiver or the extractor is holding the spent case on the bolt face too long . Check your carrier key to make sure its tight & sealing . Checking the gas port size may give you some info , but some manufacturers have there own sizes & different sizes for different length gas systems. Also a rough or tight ,not to spec chamber may be hindering the removal of the spent case from it.( like some DPMS BBL's in the past ) There is a timing thing with semi auto systems & when they are out of timing , it disrupts different phases of the action cycling .

I also have a DPMS lower ,but its complete with all but a stock & I have a Tactical Machining , striped 308 upper I can weigh.

Wonder if forged set are less weight than a Billet set ? AR 10 set ? Slick side upper ?

Did you try Remington ? Gun Parts corp. ?

His rifle is a real shooter now , he was surprised at the difference in grouping .

TM is not far from me . I have a dedicated 300 Blackout set I used to build my 300BLK rifle & a couple of there flat top uppers on other rifles, including a 308 upper . They have a good product .IMO

I would not recommend it , but it may or not be OK . You can use the Bolt Carrier & just swap out bolts with the different barrels , bolts sorta seat in the barrel extension & may not head space correctly in another barrel . The Bolt carriers do not matter, use one for several uppers if you want.

Well , .22 ammo has been hard to find & that .17 fodder is not exactly plinking ammo priced . Hard choice. Those two rifle configurations look like they will be close to the price range of a full blown AR 15 in 5.56 cal.. Just build her a Carbine in 5.56 & get a 22 cal. conversion for it . <dontknow>

AR 15 or AR 308 ?