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New AR-10A short stroking right out of the box???


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I just got myself a new DEF10 from Armalite (It says AR-10A on the side of the reciever).  Had a chance today to take it out and run some rounds through it.  I get 3 shots out of it before it turns into a single shot rifle.  The next 57 shots out of 3 brand new PMAG SR20's are almost all singles.  Ejects the spent cases into a neat pile about 5 feet out @ 4 o'clock, bolt closes on an empty chamber.  Last shot out of each mag fails to lock the bolt back.  (tells me that it's short stroking)  I do get a few Failures to Feed with the round jammed into the chamber, but not completely.  Feeds just fine when I pull the charging handle and let it fly home.

 

I've been running an M-4 carbine for 3-gun for years now, so I know to run the bolt wet....it's not lacking for lube.  I disassembled before firing to clean and lube.  Nothing found out of order.  I disassembled after firing and still nothing unusual.  I'm running 147Gr PMC Bronze FMJ, not cheap junk Russian TULA.

 

Am I missing something?  Granted, it was 38 degrees today....but I don't think that had anything to do with anything.  Don't tell me that PMC ammo is junk and 147Gr ball ammo doesn't work in these things.  Someone point me in the right direction.  I really don't want to send it back to Armalite.

Edited by hogwylde
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Here is a couple things to look at .

1. Check the gas block to see if it is loose.

Or

The end of the gas tube seating into the bolt carrier.

2. Check the gas rings in the bolt carrier, look for lube.

If the lube did not penetrate that could cause some problems.

3. Check for contact on the bolt catch, look for metal contact, wear.

As said above try heavier ammo next time.

Good Luck.

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Talked to Tim this morning at Armalite.  He says to use a heavier bullet for the break in period.  Something in the 155-175 weight range.  I would have thought that M80 ball equilivalent rounds would be fine, but I guess not.  My barrel is marked 1-11.25 as the twist rate.  The gas key is tight, the gas block is tight and not canted, Gas rings in the bolt are good, no rubbing or wear found on anything except on the bottom of the charging handle from having to manually cycle the bolt 60 times. (the bottom has rub marks from dragging on the receiver.)  I'm sure the 38 degree temperature MAY have had some effect also.  It did on my M4 carbine. I was sighting in a new scope on it at the same time as breaking in the AR10.  The M4 short stroked a whole magazine of TULA, but ran fine with 55 gr M193 5.56 ball.

 

I've got some 1979 era Spanish  NATO 7.65 that I'll try and also pick up something with a heavier bullet and see what happens.  I run SLIP 2000 EWL lube in my M4 and that's what I used for the AR10.  Should I run something lighter for the breaking in period or is what I'm using fine?

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New Big AR platforms need to break in, and new mags need to break in.  Load your mags 1/2 full.  Get 200 rounds through the rifle.

 

Everything will be different after that.

 

I said it.

 

Talked to Tim this morning at Armalite.  He says to use a heavier bullet for the break in period. 

 

 

Hmmm...  Tim at Armalite said there was a break-in period. 

 

I've got some 1979 era Spanish  NATO 7.65 that I'll try and also pick up something with a heavier bullet and see what happens. 

 

That's still 147 grain.  Go big.  Find something heavy, like 165 or 168 grain.  Or more.

 

I run SLIP 2000 EWL lube in my M4 and that's what I used for the AR10.  Should I run something lighter for the breaking in period or is what I'm using fine?

 

That stuff rocks - don't change it, keep running it.  Just run alot of it.

Edited by 98Z5V
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  I find Armalite's response troubling , what did they use to test fire it , a proof test round ?

 Their response makes no sense to me at all , use 155-175 gr. loads , when they know most will use 147 - 150 gr. ammo , which would be Milspec ammo . Yes , they may be treating this as an isolated incident , as far as a short stroking rifle.

  Is the barrel marked for 7.62 x 51 or 308 ? 

 

  I have built many rifles in the past , both 5.56 & 7.62 & never had to use a heavy or high pressure load for them to function , but this is a Factory rifle & not a Custom rifle , so mass production will have is good & bad days .

 

  Hope it works out for you.

 

I've got some 1979 era Spanish  NATO 7.65 that I'll try and also pick up something with a heavier bullet and see what happens.  I run SLIP 2000 EWL lube in my M4 and that's what I used for the AR10.  Should I run something lighter for the breaking in period or is what I'm using fine?

 

 

 
 I hope you mean 7.62 mm
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Picked up a new semi-auto shotgun about 4.5 years ago.  Read alot about it for about a year prior, before I could even find one.

 

Once I found it, it really did need to be broken in.  "Cycle some heavy loads through it before you try any #6 or reduced loads..."  That's exactly what I did, and I've never had an issue with it.

 

Anything that is mechanical, and brand new requires a break in period.  Parts have to mate together and work together. 

 

Should a new Armalite AR-10 function straight from the box?  Yes, I believe it should.  However, it's gonna function straight from the box better is it's well lubed and not bone dry, and it's gonna function even better still once it's broken in.  My $0.02.

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Yes, I did mean 7.62mm.  I had a suggestion from someone that I could try a lighter buffer.  The one I have is marked HB.  I'm wondering if swapping out a couple of weights with a carbine buffer and reducing the weight an ounce or so might be worthwhile..................

  It would be more fun just getting 168 gr. ammo & shooting it like they said . The AR 10 should not need any upgraded parts to function . <thumbsup>

 

  Now as far as a Shotgun is concerned , most are picky on what ammo they like , some will not shoot the low stuff with out spring changes & some will eat any thing .

 Mostly when its talked about breaking in a firearm , its about breaking in the Barrel , not the action. I was an Class one & Three FFL for twenty years & if I sold someone a firearm that didn't function right out of the box , no matter type of firearm, it would go back to the Manufacturer , for repair or replacement .

 I understand about mass production & once in a while ( if your a good Manufacturer ) you may have one or ten , have function problems . Nature of mass manufacturing , be it a supplier or the CO. itself , but that's why they have a Warranty.

  Why as a consumer, should anyone do the work of the Manufacturer , if it needs high $$ ammo to get it to function or what ever , its their product , let them get it to function properly , like it should leaving their production facility. <dontknow>

Edited by survivalshop
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The DEF should work with any thing right out of the box. Lube it up good and shoot a good number of rounds. If it does not loosen up fairly quick, take advantage of that sweet lifetime warranty that Armalite products have. They will make it right.

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Picked up a new semi-auto shotgun about 4.5 years ago.  Read alot about it for about a year prior, before I could even find one.

 

Once I found it, it really did need to be broken in.  "Cycle some heavy loads through it before you try any #6 or reduced loads..." 

I've seen quite a few posts about this being common with the Benelli M4, and that thing costs $1700!

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I'm back. I've been offline for a bit. But all is good.

 

And even I can't defend a factory rifle (yes...even from Armalite) that doesn't function. I agree with the others that brought up the "mass manufacturing" thought. And also with Tom about the break in period for parts and actions. Every manufacture has some hiccups now and again. But I'm already feeling a disturbance in the force, with the "new" line of rifles that my beloved Armalite is pushing. Time will tell as more sheer numbers of them get out into peoples hands.

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