BIGBREW 308 BUILD

jtallen83 · February 20, 2017

Forgot I have a MI heavy duty QD adapter on the PM400 I keep with me. Measures 1.135 inch so that would be a little thick for your purpose. They have another model that is smaller, might be worth checking out.

edit;

The smaller one must be the 1/2 inch that Shepp is referring to. Doesn't sound like either will get you the 5/8 inch you are looking for.

Edited February 20, 2017 by jtallen83

BIGBREW · February 20, 2017

I think having the buffer tube show a little is nice aesthetically, it's not a necessity. I would need a longer vented screw. Post a product link if you can. Just about done. I'll get some better pictures with more light. Still need a barrel. Leaning towards the 20, didn't realize how long the gun would be with a 24

BIGBREW · February 20, 2017

I thought I bought the tallest mount I could get. Apparently not. Disappointed I had these painted. Just barley touching the hand guard in front.

BIGBREW · February 21, 2017

21 hours ago, shepp said:

It's 1/2" thick

I like this idea but my vented screw will still be too short

BIGBREW · February 21, 2017

blue109 · February 21, 2017

Sorry if I'm misunderstanding, but are you wanting to make the stock length longer?

That MCTAR-30 you posted is for a collapsible stock. won't work with a rifle receiver tube. If you are looking to space out a rifle tube DPMS and KAC both sell extensions that come with the proper internal spacers and screws. The easiest thing to do will be to order the adjustable LOP shoulder pad made for that stock. that's actually the whole point of that stock... Adjustable LOP and cheek riser.

This is the DPMS spacer

Edited February 21, 2017 by blue109

blue109 · February 21, 2017

For the scope...If it's touching you are a NOGO there. It won't hold zero. If you are dead set on those rings there are a few companies who make nice risers. GG&G and PRI come to mind.

98Z5V · February 21, 2017

^^^ ...And those rings pictured above are Warne Maxima Steel QD rings. And I bet they have your height that you need.

BIGBREW · February 21, 2017

Blue do you have a link for this?

BIGBREW · February 21, 2017

8 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

^^^ ...And those rings pictured above are Warne Maxima Steel QD rings. And I bet they have your height that you need.

I'll have to grab a riser

survivalshop · February 21, 2017

With a Riser , you will need different Rings , I can see those existing Rings will be too high . They look like Extra High Rings now , same height as I use , just different brand , That Scope has a very large Objective lens , what is it ?

blue109 · February 21, 2017

https://www.gggaz.com/standard-and-scout-length-mounting-rails.html

http://www.precisionreflex.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=186634&CAT=4211

Heres a couple. I'm sure there are cheaper options but these are known high quality, and every link between your rifle and optic is a potential point for inaccuracies. Your rings will still work, but I'd recommend mocking up your scope at the new height to make sure you can still get a decent cheek weld.

BIGBREW · February 21, 2017

42 minutes ago, survivalshop said:

With a Riser , you will need different Rings , I can see those existing Rings will be too high . They look like Extra High Rings now , same height as I use , just different brand , That Scope has a very large Objective lens , what is it ?

They are extra high. I did find a 1/2 inch riser. It's a 50mm that my father in law gave me. I have no problem seeing through it now. I don't forsee another 1/2" being a problem. I was worried about this but didn't have the scope before I sent everything out for paint. I was getting the itch to put this thing together. I have been doing my research and buying parts since last year. Just my luck something like this happens.

survivalshop · February 21, 2017

1/2 " can give some issues with proper Cheek Weld , unless you have an adj. cheek riser . you have to be comfortable & not searching around for a sight picture from shot to shot , but I'm sure you know that , just reminding you . Its also important if someone else is using the Rifle too.

BIGBREW · February 21, 2017

11 minutes ago, survivalshop said:

1/2 " can give some issues with proper Cheek Weld , unless you have an adj. cheek riser . you have to be comfortable & not searching around for a sight picture from shot to shot , but I'm sure you know that , just reminding you . Its also important if someone else is using the Rifle too.

Guess I'll grab a half inch riser. If I have an issue I can get the kit for my stock with the adjustable cheek riser. Still debating barrel too. So I guess I have a few odds and ends to work out. Have to grab a bipod.

All in all I think it turned out pretty good.

BIGBREW · March 1, 2017

Scope riser did the trick. Bipod will be here Friday, ordered a 24" bull from Fulton Armory today will get it when they get more in stock this month. Also said he would have me ship him my bolt to check headspace.

sketch · March 2, 2017

Nice! I see a bubble level? Care to share how you set up your scope and level? I know its not ready to shoot but curious on how level was achieved? If at all yet?

Im almost at the point of buying a weeler scope level kit?

BIGBREW · March 2, 2017

I know my bench isn't perfectly level. I'm waiting on the bipod. I will put that on set it to a level height and find a more level surface. I'll put the gun on that and set it up level both ways before setting level on the scope.

BIGBREW · March 11, 2017

Bipod:

I know the consensus is kick the legs forward. Mine is strictly a bench shooter so leaning into it will just cause the legs to slide forward in the bench. I'm still waiting on a barrel but I feel like the gun is long enough as it is (barrel should far surpass the bipod). If you wanted to stand and shoot my handguard is 16.5" there should be enough room for a hand. I honestly like them folded backward.

Thoughts?

ChaoticReason · April 6, 2017

Look'n good! It's always nice to see things come together. You and your dad did a real nice build.

ARTrooper · April 6, 2017

On ‎3‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 10:08 PM, BIGBREW said:

Bipod:

I know the consensus is kick the legs forward. Mine is strictly a bench shooter so leaning into it will just cause the legs to slide forward in the bench. I'm still waiting on a barrel but I feel like the gun is long enough as it is (barrel should far surpass the bipod). If you wanted to stand and shoot my handguard is 16.5" there should be enough room for a hand. I honestly like them folded backward.

Thoughts?

In the stan I was a saw gunner, I learned to drive those bipod legs in the ground or against whatever I could to keep a more steady position to keep my shots from opening up. when they passed on my saw to someone else, I applied the same logic to my m4. with my harris bipod I mounted it backwards so when closed the legs pointed forward. with this setup I shot my m4 similar to my saw, digging in and leaning in, so that when shooting it was like shooting a pellet gun. And the legs did extend past my muzzle, but I saw no ill effect on accuracy when legs were forward.

The other benefit I found to having the legs pointed forward, though this shouldn't have much affect on a bench shooter, I used a vertical grip and found with the legs pointing towards me, they got in the way of the vertical grip. Having the legs pointed forward I was able to have much more freedom with the vertical grip and other attachments I put on my rifle.

To this day, any rifle I put a harris bipod on, I have the legs usually forward.