Powerman Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) No. Just scratches, but nothing bad. EDIT: and I did keep all my brass, and I kept the double feeds. Looking at both, I can't tell a big difference. Edited January 18, 2014 by Powerman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) How easy is it to move your bolt in & out of the bolt carrier ? Loose or easy to push in or out (like the bolt was going in & out of battery ) or does it feel like a tight fit ? Check gas rings for fitment & make sure the ring gaps are staggered . Make sure the screws attaching the carrier key are to spec's (tight) How does the a empty cartridge case fit in the bolt head . When you fit a empty case into the bolt face & force the case flat & let go of it , does it drop out of the bolt face ? How freely did the ejector move , hard spring pressure to force it down ? Edited January 18, 2014 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DNP Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Damn man. I have nothing good to add, just sorry you're still chasing the issue down. That's gotta be pretty frustrating. Hoping for a good solution soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbasks Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 did it just do that with the cheaper/lighter powered ammo? When it did eject how far was it tossing em? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 How easy is it to move your bolt in & out of the bolt carrier ? Loose or easy to push in or out (like the bolt was going in & out of battery ) or does it feel like a tight fit ? Check gas rings for fitment & make sure the ring gaps are staggered . I have suspected my rings were wore out, but these are the first so not sure. I have one piece gas rings. New the bolt would stand on it's head without falling. Now it won't stay up. I have a spare and swapped them out... ya, much tighter. So the old one piece has about 1000-1200 rounds on them. I do not know how long they are supposed to last. The bolt is not "loose", but easy to move. So I have new ones in now. Make sure the screws attaching the carrier key are to spec's (tight) I had a GS install the key. It was sort of a weak stake job, but they have not moved. Still staked, and the key isn't loose. How does the a empty cartridge case fit in the bolt head . When you fit a empty case into the bolt face & force the case flat & let go of it , does it drop out of the bolt face ? No, it goes flying across the garage. :)) Stiff spring. Case moves well, extractor moves well, ejector moves well. How freely did the ejector move , hard spring pressure to force it down ? Yes, stiff spring. This was a brand new JP Enhanced bolt I bought in a new FA chrome carrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 did it just do that with the cheaper/lighter powered ammo? When it did eject how far was it tossing em? Well, before... and this is not very scientific since I was not exactly recording stuff before... but it has happened with Federal GMM ans American Eagle ammo as well. I am out of all the odds and ends cheap ammo. I have American Eagle .308 left, and have a big box of AE 7.62 coming as well. For now on I will stick with Federal stuff. Brass has always been consistent. It tosses 4 o'clock about 4-6 feet away. Last time when I would have a double feed, I would watch my brass after I cleared and it was still landing same spot. Same thing today. Very consistent placement. Today, my bolt never failed to lock on last round. I did not go back to singles or anything after a jam, but I would just keep going and blot always locked back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketch Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Sorry for chiming in late and I'm no smithy but are you considering a heavy buffer? Again sorry if already brought up but my rifle seems to run the bolt back and forth pretty fast. Maybe a heavy buffer would slow the action down a tad? .... Experts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Sorry for chiming in late and I'm no smithy but are you considering a heavy buffer? Again sorry if already brought up but my rifle seems to run the bolt back and forth pretty fast. Maybe a heavy buffer would slow the action down a tad? .... Experts? I have a Armalite AR-10 buffer. The H3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketch Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 H3 is that standerd weight? Not known to me standerd weights? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 buffer no bueno senior~ :) ElWasho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Care to elaborate. Plenty others have said it is good and it the same weight as the CAR-10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 H3 is that standerd weight? Not known to me standerd weights? It's the actual short AR 10 buffer at 5.4 ounces with armalite ar10 spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) I've run those buffers in my carbines with no issue (the standard H3 carbine buffers). Granted, I went to the heavybuffers.com (slash) style of buffers mainly for running my rifles suppressed. Though it's amazing how smooth they make the action when running unsuppressed. I would think that the H3 would be fine for running a standard setup. All of mine are Armalite's though......not CMMG's (no disrespect meant.....just sayin). Edited January 19, 2014 by Rsquared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 I would not put too much lube & that it runs out the barrel . Would be nice if you had a spare Bolt or BCG to try out in the rifle . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) I've run those buffers in my carbines with no issue (the standard H3 carbine buffers). Granted, I went to the heavybuffers.com (slash) style of buffers mainly for running my rifles suppressed. Though it's amazing how smooth they make the action when running unsuppressed. I would think that the H3 would be fine for running a standard setup. All of mine are Armalite's though......not CMMG's (no disrespect meant.....just sayin).None taken. DPMS lower and Fulton upper/bolt carrier/barrel. I realize a FA upper is probably DPMS manufacture. I was looking at JP Ent to see about an extractor. They just state it is a DPMS made extractor... So nothing special. But my extractor shows no sign of damage or wear. I could get a new one, but don't see anything wrong. And when I was looking for a buffer, I didn't see the point for a slash since they are the same weight..... Even though I know Slash makes good stuff and is very helpful. Edited January 19, 2014 by Powerman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 That's kinda the point that I was making with the whole buffer assembly. You got it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 So any thoughts on where to go next? I'm going to give JP a call tomorrow to see what they think about it. I don't think it is a gas/cycling problem... But obviously I'm not the expert. But it seems my bolt movement and ejection placement tell me my gas/buffer is correct. Certainly open to any other ideas on the subject. I might order new rings and extractor while I'm on the phone, but could not tell you what is wrong with mine. Does my ejector sound right? Strong stiff spring? Can it be too strong. I could understand too weak. Any other ideas besides buying another bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Did you try running a chamber brush in a hand drill? Polish up that chamber a bit so the shells will extract easier. I don't suggest using any compounds, like Flitz. I really don't know if anything bad could happen from it, I just don't know what's in that stuff and what long term eexposure from it will do to a barrel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Did you try running a chamber brush in a hand drill? Polish up that chamber a bit so the shells will extract easier. I don't suggest using any compounds, like Flitz. I really don't know if anything bad could happen from it, I just don't know what's in that stuff and what long term eexposure from it will do to a barrel. Yes. I soaked it in solvent and ran a chamber brush chucked up for a few minutes. One brush toast. If it is a tight chamber, would I see other symptoms like chewed up brass from the extractor? Cause all my brass seems OK. And I did read that a tight chamber might also present like a short cycle because of the added force to extract... but my brass seems to be flying fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 It was just a suggestion if you hadn't tried it yet. I think you're in the right direction already, by checking the bolt assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 I think we talked about this already but , are there any marks on the top of your disconnector ? Like the hammer could be hitting it & slowing down the BCG travel . it would be on top , in front of the disconnector hook or sear. It could slow it down momentarily ,at the wrong moment. How tight is your magazine catch ? How far is the release button turned into the threads of the mag. catch ? Does your Bolt stop move freely in the receiver ? Replace the extractor, its spring , ejector & its spring . Check sealing of Carrier key, make sure Gas Key is sealing on Bolt carrier . Can be done withe light air pressure & soap bubble solution . If BCG is caught & held back on the last round in the mag. & its locking it back properly , then the gas system is working & not short stroking . Now you could be having what they call , Bolt Bounce , because the catch has nothing to do with the cycling operation with ammo in the mag. ( unless it sticking & interfering with function of the BCG ) Bolt bounce, would involve the Buffer & spring or receiver extension Or high operating gas pressure . Superior Springs (TUBB's) has a flat wire spring for the 308 , same spring for Carbine or Rifle , might be worth a try . My 308AR carbine runs smooth with it in there . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketch Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 This sound similar to my buddy who resently is having the same prob- not as often. DD7 .223 so he changed the gas rings and went to older pmags it ran fine after that for 4 full mags. We found the mag feed lips were interfering with loading and ejecting. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 This sound similar to my buddy who resently is having the same prob- not as often. DD7 .223 so he changed the gas rings and went to older pmags it ran fine after that for 4 full mags. We found the mag feed lips were interfering with loading and ejecting. ;) thanks. So is he having double feeds from the mags, or not ejecting the spend round? What was it about the lips that were wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsmopar Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) Powerman we should go shooting! My story is similar to yours and I have yet to find a solution. I recently took my lower back to the Manufacturer and he ended up moving the pivot point for my bolt catch and replacing my lower parts kit. He said that he doesn't know if that will affect the short stroke problem, but he fixed it none the less. I also recently polished my chamber, but after watching a few youtube videos I used a slightly different method than the chamber brush listed above. One thing I'd like to try on the next outing: I seem to recall getting through the 1st magazine successfully and the short stroke starts on Mag 2 or 3. If this is really the case and not just my imagination; I thought that I could test the theory by letting the gun sit for a while after the 1st short stroke and/or bringing a can of compressed air to cool it off. I think that this would point to a tight chamber (barrel heat, etc...). My wife is expecting baby #2 any day. As soon as things are back to normal around here, I'm going to hit the range an see if any of this crap worked! Good luck buddy and you're not the only one! ps: survivalshop, Can you elaborate on the magazine catch? I noticed that mine was looser (more screwed out) when I got it back from repair. How does this affect the cycling and how tight should it be? Edited January 21, 2014 by gsmopar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 I think we talked about this already but , are there any marks on the top of your disconnector ? Like the hammer could be hitting it & slowing down the BCG travel . it would be on top , in front of the disconnector hook or sear. It could slow it down momentarily ,at the wrong moment. I'll have to take a look at that when I get time. How tight is your magazine catch ? How far is the release button turned into the threads of the mag. catch ? The bolt is inside the button maybe 2-3 turns. I have no problem on release. I think I have it about as loose as it can be and not push it out the other side. Does your Bolt stop move freely in the receiver ? Yes it does. I do check it and make sure the set screw is not backing out, and it is operating fine. Replace the extractor, its spring , ejector & its spring . That's pretty much where I'm at. Check sealing of Carrier key, make sure Gas Key is sealing on Bolt carrier . Can be done withe light air pressure & soap bubble solution . I do not think it is loose. There is always plenty of oil in the corners and no fouling to point to gas blowing out... but it is easy enough to check and I will check it. If BCG is caught & held back on the last round in the mag. & its locking it back properly , then the gas system is working & not short stroking . Now you could be having what they call , Bolt Bounce , because the catch has nothing to do with the cycling operation with ammo in the mag. ( unless it sticking & interfering with function of the BCG ) Bolt bounce, would involve the Buffer & spring or receiver extension Or high operating gas pressure . Superior Springs (TUBB's) has a flat wire spring for the 308 , same spring for Carbine or Rifle , might be worth a try . My 308AR carbine runs smooth with it in there . Now that parts are available again, it's easier to get more. During the build, it was hard to pick and choose from anything. I might try a Tubbs. Well I know more about bolt bounce now... I never knew that was why weight were loose in buffers. Thanks. Not sure though if that is what is happening. It seems fairly simple what failures in extractors/ejectors do. Seems much more complicated to figure out a cycle problem between speed/weight/force of everything involved. The simplest thing is to replace extractor and ejector/spring. I already replaced extractor spring.... which I will do next. I'm just not optimistic since the extractor looks good, and the ejector is strong. But there is nothing else to the bolt to go wrong. I have been over the buffer/spring/weight and while it may not be super duper... there is no reason I can't run that or obvious things that might cause cycling problems. Less enthusiastic about changing parts for the sake of changing parts. Seems DPMS has a bit of a history of failure to eject... but no real common reason for it... other than extractor. Most the stuff I have found is factory rifles that get sent back and fixed. JP Ent. was closed when I got up, so I will be calling them in the morning when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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