Powerman Posted February 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Done deal.You guys are the best. I really appropriate all the help for the newbi. <thumbsup> <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Soooo... got my PRI block today. It went on easier than the DPMS. I cleaned up the barrel and used no oil.100 rounds.... zero failures. Woot woot!However... The block is the same. I have fouling on the back side. , but it does not seem to be from the tube. Last time it was obvious on the tube itself. Plus fouling out the front. Can't really tell if it is the tube or the block since the tube hole is drilled all the way through.The rifle cycled fine. I lubed it up good. Lubed it again after 40, but not necessarily dripping like before. Shot the last 60 and called it good. I will only know if it is still leaking gas after I clean it up and go shooting again, but I am not expecting to do that again soon. At this point I will run out of ammo with none on the shelves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgecrusher Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Glad to hear of the improvements, wonder if there may be a barrel issue. Either way, she shot, with no failures, and that is an improvement for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seasprite Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Glad you got it running <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planeflyer21 Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 That is AWESOME Powerman!Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 You'r getting there brother. <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Sounds like the original gasblock was the primary issue. That new one will seal quick - probably already sealed, now. Great news, man. <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 That's good to hear powerman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 200 rounds through it, I'm going to call it broke in. I'll get some pis of the fouling tomorrow. More than likely it is sealed. I'll get it all cleaned up... then I have to wait to get a scope. At this point, not sure if I'll get the Nikon 308, or the Vortex HS from Midway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IM_JOHNNYV Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Powerman,Just for the heck of it, could you take a picture of the gas tube inside the receiver, now that it's fixed. From the picture you posted earlier, it appears as though your gas tube extends inside your receiver only about 5/8" when it should be closer to the 1" mark. If the gas tube doesn't extend far enough into the receiver it will cause a FTF scenario. I have had almost every gas block show signs of leakage, but the rifles still cycled and fed. Makes me wonder...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Powerman,Just for the heck of it, could you take a picture of the gas tube inside the receiver, now that it's fixed. From the picture you posted earlier, it appears as though your gas tube extends inside your receiver only about 5/8" when it should be closer to the 1" mark. If the gas tube doesn't extend far enough into the receiver it will cause a FTF scenario. I have had almost every gas block show signs of leakage, but the rifles still cycled and fed. Makes me wonder......Well you are wrong... it's more like 11/16" ;DI have a rifle length barrel and gas tube. Standard DPMS barrel nut and freefloat tube. IDK <dontknow> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Heres the pics...[img width=810 height=456]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/free2801/IMAG0066_zps5534c5a1.jpg[img width=810 height=456]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/free2801/IMAG0067_zps23c6365f.jpg[img width=810 height=456]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/free2801/IMAG0069_zpsbb21285a.jpg[img width=810 height=456]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/free2801/IMAG0070_zpse8aaea2c.jpgAnd I did not notice any oil when I took the old block off. I don't think he used any. I put a thin coat on when I was trying to fit it. I cleaned it all up though and didn't use any oil on the new block.TIP: In case you didn't know, a SOS pad, greenie meanie... is all you need to brush stainless steel. I refinish my watch all the time. Works just as good on a barrel. Had some scratches from all this... brand new shinny now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Looks better than what you started with brother <dontknow> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted February 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 And I'm not freaking over a little gas leakage either. Obviously, at fist it was about the FTF... but we know it was under lubed. I like the minimal PRI block, and I do not think I am going to put sights on. Actually, I think down the road I will build a light CQ carbine upper instead. If I stop dorking with the gas block, I'm sure it will seal up better. Now that I know it is broke in, and functioning well, I'll just have to figure out how to run it normally and see how it does.I was borrowing scopes, and they were out of range/adjustment. Trying to get it on paper and figured out was a hassle. Can't wait to get my own scope and get it sighted in. Start pushing lead out to 600 yards at the new range! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 Actually, I think down the road I will build a light CQ carbine upper instead. No you won't. You'll end up building a full carbine, instead. You just don't know that yet... <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 No you won't. You'll end up building a full carbine, instead. Yep, he's right. Then you'll build a CQ carbine......followed by a full length rifle.....followed by another carbine....then a different kind of carbine.....then.....well, you know how it happens. <laughs> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted February 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 IF... in the future... I am still allowed to build a rifle, I would probably just build a .223 carbine. Since my future ability to have a .308 was in question, I bought a lower to build later, and here I am with a rifle. ;DSo ya, I'm definitely a gear whore, but another .308 rifle is unlikely. ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted February 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 So is there a measurement of how far the gas tube is supposed to be in the receiver? I always wondered especially since reading about leaving room like an end cap was there. I mean we are only talking a 1/16". Is there a tolerance to where the gas tube should be and where there gas key on the carrier should sit? I assume there is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IM_JOHNNYV Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 So is there a measurement of how far the gas tube is supposed to be in the receiver? I always wondered especially since reading about leaving room like an end cap was there. I mean we are only talking a 1/16". Is there a tolerance to where the gas tube should be and where there gas key on the carrier should sit? I assume there is.If you read Armalite's Tech Note #73 and do the math, you'll see that the gas tube is exposed inside the receiver approximately 1". I have checked many AR10's and that is where they fall. At the risk of sounding like a know-it-all, that is why I asked the question I did, but Powerman only showed pictures of the gas block and the slight leakage, which means nothing whatsoever. Like I said, check the gas tube protrusion inside the receiver, that's what matters.Just my 2¢ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 ^^^I responded to you... it's a 11/16" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 I would have to measure from shoulder to flange and see if it is close. It did bring up another question though... what is proper gas regulation?My last shooting put all my brass in the same spot... about 3-4 feet to the side, and 3-4 feet back. If fell on concrete so I do not know if it bounced to where they all ended up. But the article talks of enough gas to cycle, without excessive ejection force. So what is excessive ejection force or over gassed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt.Cross Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 I would have to measure from shoulder to flange and see if it is close. It did bring up another question though... what is proper gas regulation?My last shooting put all my brass in the same spot... about 3-4 feet to the side, and 3-4 feet back. If fell on concrete so I do not know if it bounced to where they all ended up. But the article talks of enough gas to cycle, without excessive ejection force. So what is excessive ejection force or over gassed?Ejecting 3-4 feet to your 4:30 is perfect. When you're slinging them 7-8 feet in any direction and tearing up brass, then you have problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 SWEET! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman Posted April 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 So a few updates, there is always fouling out of the PRI block. I have checked and rechecked, and lock tighted the set screws and they are not loose. I don't really care if it is normal, and my rifle cycles fine. At this point I have about 500 rounds through it. I still lube it good, but now I just need to figure out how much is proper. Usually I will do 100 or so rounds and I will squirt some in the bolt. I finally put my scope on, a Vortex PST 6-24x50. I thought maybe it was "too much" scope... that was a silly thought. I love it. I mounted it with a Addmount base. That's nice. I just wanted to "buy once". Worried the 20 moa cant was maybe too much.. again, silly. It's perfect and I still zeroed at 100. All my stuff came loose and had to zero again, but now it is all tightened and lock tight and good to go. I don't want a PRS stock right now, but I am trying to figure out how to make a cheek piece riser. Toying with a few ideas. Duct taping foam isn't one of them. Overall really happy with it. I was hitting 500 yard steel no problem, and one day I was zeroing in on 1000 when I ran out of ammo. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTANA308 Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 If you have a magpul stock other then the PRS http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3542 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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