survivalshop

Not everone has had a problem with them . I feel your pain & understand ,but they have always been fast & have good pricing on some stuff.

Its OK , just say three " Anyone but CommieBama in 2012" & you will be forgiven . If I can find it , there a chemical ,that stains S/S, just like bluing and is inexpensive.

Sounds good . You are going to like the trigger ,I have one in one of my AR308 rifles & it makes a big difference in shooting . I want more of them .

Natchez has a sale on for the camo version of the TRS1 4x16x50 scope now for $ 239.00. I think it has 1/8 clicks though , I almost bought one ,but I have another build going & the last thing will be optics. They are not top of the line ,but I like mine on my 20" & for the money , ya can't go wrong with it . Its a heavy scope & built like a tank.

This rifle may have milspec parts in it . Pins, springs ,detents ,receiver extention, grips , stocks ,just to name a few , can and are used in the AR 308. I agree with Robocop1051 , if that's pretty much all ya got ,go for it , it can be made to function correctly if you come up with a problem . Hell, just read some of the stuff we go through with these rifles.

Well , I'm sure of one thing , I don't like all those bolts piled up there dinging up the gas rings. It took two days for them photo's to load (just kidding), damn nice though.

That criteria is only for military service rifles . The only 7.62x 51 NATO calibered rifle that in service for the US military is the M14/M1A. There are sniper rifles out there & some in use for SPECOPS , but they are not std. service rifles, so don't fall under said criteria. The AR's we build or buy as far as 5.56/.223 cal. are manufactured to milspec standards, they have drawings for that purpose ,that they go by. The AR 308 is a different animal ,as has been said , there are no milspec criteria for them , it doesn't exist. It is true we can not own a select fire version of the M4 ( at least a newly made lower ),but that's just a different configuration of the firing mechanism , the rest of the rifle is the same . Most civi AR 15's are made to milspec standards.

The riser may be enough of a heat sink to keep it from melting . But, its your sight !

Making your own brass is one of the things for the 300BLK ,that makes it OK that factory brass is still not available. I have no problem with making my own . I have used just about all of them out there ,.223,5.56 & it seems you can stuff a little more powder in the .223 cases because of brass thickness campared to the milspec fodder. There is plenty of loading data here & elsewhere. You dies should be fine ,but be careful ,there are some out of spec dies out there for these wild cat cal.. Most I've heard they will work fine . I got my Forster dies because I read they have the correct neck tension & indeed they work fine ,I have not needed to crimp any so far . Don't have a crimp die for the 300BLK any way.If they come out with a taper crimp die ,I may pick one up. Heavy recoil may be the heavy bullet. You can play around with your gas adj. or go to a heavy buffer. I get some case deformity also ,some can be severe, just use a round dowel or some thing like it to put the case mouth back as best as you can & it will re-size with out a problem ,because it you don't it could damage the case upon resizing. I like that YHM hand guard , photo's please or you don't have one .

One would think you couldn't get the sizer die back over a case with a seated bullet . The whole purpose of the sizer die is to put enough neck tension to hold the bullet & of course re-size the case to proper detentions. I'm surprised you are even getting the cartride in there loaded. Now , are you doing anything? Maybe ,maybe not . When seating bullets into the case do you feel resistance ? If you do ,its all the neck tension you need . I also use SB dies & taper crimp . If you don't feel you are getting proper neck tension , there are dies you can change the neck sizing bushing to change that. You should not have to swage the neck , putting too much neck tension on can effect accuracy.

I think your reasoning is sound . I have also looked into the Mega Mono for a LWRC lower I have ,but can't get by the cost. The monolithic upper is a good Idea for some reasons ,but not for some others. I think the military would like to have a free float handguard , but is not too crazy about something that screws on or clamps on . Even though they have some in service already.

Ya, right . <munch>

Since you are dealing with parts & not a manufactured rifle (they do have problems like this also with production rifles ) , you have to make your self ,over night , into a gunsmith. Just another good reason to have a set of Head space gages around . I can tell you over the years , I have had to lap bolts to seat properly . Not often, but it does come up when you do this full time . I can tell you ,I have never hammered on one , to get it to seat. Sure glad you did it with an empty case.

Hell, every Hurricane has missed us, SO FAR & this is usually our bad rainy month . We have the smoke from the fires on the Georgia border hanging out all the time . poop seems to never go away. Its starting to get a little cooler out to be able to shoot & I plan on it tomorrow .

Scoped groups are just that , magnified. No problem with iron sight groups, it seems to be a lost art ,except for boot camps . Maybe we should show how good we are with them old type sights. Magpuls are the only sights on my 16 " 308 & they work pretty good @ 100 yrds.

Hay, I'm ex Navy , does that count . It was a long time ago & I'm pretty sure it did happen . <dontknow> Just don't yell at me any more ,I've grown sensitive .<laughs>

They would put that coating on the Lands , inside the BBL. ?

So ? It doesn't bother me a bit . Good for them . As said Fulton Armory is the way to go . I wouldn't call it a DPMS , cause they don't make them like FA..

Or just the cam pin . Try a different cam pin . If said BCG seated in other rifles , ,there is nothing wrong with its machining , you are just getting that tolerance stacking we talk so much of here. Different manufacturers don't have to keep to a mil spec tolerances(as with the M16/15 family) , they seem to make all there own. It just may take some lapping in or just a good working in .

150/165 Hornady SST's. Take your pick.

That's a lot of holes .

A good bore light for the barrel & check your muzzle crown for dents or deformities . I use a bore brush's & they hold dirt or just discoloring .Gotta keep them clean also.

You should not be putting any thing but very light finger pressure to test for head space. That means one finger . You need to remove the ejector , the extractor can stay in most new gages. It is true that you may be able to fit both go & no go gages in the chamber with force. If its a 7.62 chamber , both will fit any way. One will be tighter as you have found out .

Now , that's just not right. I've never heard that before , any one else?

The resistance you are experiencing is not only from the extractor claw , but also the ejector button ,which gas a pretty stiff little spring in there. The fail to feed may be a mag. problem . Try a different mag. or manufactures mag , just to see how it works. More likely a newly built firearm's break in tweeking. Need to get some working out of the bugs , like bullets down range.