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Albroswift

Hunting caliber AR15

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Want to build something for Western Washington Blacktail on an AR15 receiver set.  Regulations here min .24 caliber. Too  many options, maybe 6.5 Grendel, 6.8 SPC,  6mm/.243?  Don't want to go 7.62 

Give me some ideas my friends!

 

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25/45 Sharps - Handload them with RL-7 powder and a 90gr Sierra Game King.   :thumbup:

Same 5.56 bolt, mags - based off necked-up 5.56 brass...   It's just a die set and a different barrel, and you're in business...

Edited by 98Z5V

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7 minutes ago, 98Z5V said:

25/45 Sharps - Handload them with RL-7 powder and a 90gr Sierra Game King.   :thumbup:

Same 5.56 bolt, mags - based off necked-up 5.56 brass...   It's just a die set and a different barrel, and you're in business...

Something I hadn't considered, but perfect. I assume you have one, what velocities are you getting? Barrel length? Gas system length?

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18" midlength-gas barrel, medium profile, straight from Sharps, and it's a shooter.  I'll have to look at my load data again and check the velocities on the load, but the RL-7 and 90gr Sierra Game King were the best that I tried.  It was under one inch at 100 yards, 5-round groups for testing loads, off a bipod and no rear support.  I'll dig out the numbers on charge weight and velocity for you.

EDIT - 23.1gr RL-7 under the 90SGK, .257" projo, CCI 400 primers, whatever .223 Rem brass I had laying around that wasn't LC NATO brass.  Mostly PMC Bronze brass.  That had me between 2650 and 2700fps 2815fps, but I can't find my velocity data on that right now.  I'll keep looking.

Final COL was 2.255".

Edited by 98Z5V

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38 minutes ago, Albroswift said:

Something I hadn't considered, but perfect.

Had to find the older data and info here, but this is what we dug up a couple years ago:

 

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Found my original info on this...   I was WAY off on my velocity, from what I calculated.  I still haven't verified this over a chrono, or by mil-drop at distance - but the chart I made on it for drop-at-distance works really well - so it has to be close to the projected 2815fps...

 

Muzzle velocities are calculated here, not measured.

#1)  90 SGK HPBT with 21.5 grains RL-7 = 2640 fps

#2)  90 SGK HPBT with 21.7 grains RL-7 = 2662 fps

#3)  90 SGK HPBT with 21.9 grains RL-7 = 2684 fps

#4)  90 SGK HPBT with 22.1 grains RL-7 = 2706 fps

#5)  90 SGK HPBT with 22.3 grains RL-7 = 2728 fps

#6)  90 SGK HPBT with 22.5 grains RL-7 = 2750 fps

#7)  90 SGK HPBT with 22.7 grains RL-7 = 2771 fps

#8)  90 SGK HPBT with 22.9 grains RL-7 = 2793 fps

#9)  90 SGK HPBT with 23.1 grains RL-7 = 2815 fps

#10) 90 SGK HPBT with 23.3 grains RL-7 = 2837 fps

Worked off a known velocity on the first charge weight, from someone developing their own loads, and using their own chronograph. At that charge weight, same projectile, COL, and 21.5 gr RL-7 powder, they verified 2640 fps through their chrono.  I used this program to calculate the other velocities, using that data as the reference point. 

http://shootersnotes.com/Velinfo.php

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6.8spc it's a small version of a 270 , which has killed more deer than  just about any other cartridge. The 6 eight needs a bolt , barrel and magazine that's it. It's a 500 yard range on animals. 110 gr and 115 gr. Pro hunters and Sierra Match Kings are the go to projectiles. That will put the meat on your table ! Another plus is the price has dropped on brass  now that the 224V & 6.5G are the newest greatest wonder cartridges.

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Ordered a sharps barrel, lite profile SS 16"

Do you use a special die to resize the 223 brass? Reason I ask is Sharps has a RCBS set that includes a die for sizing 223 into 25 45. 

"This .25-45 Sharps RCBS reloading dies includes a three die box, a full-length resizing die, a seater die, and a die to resize .223 brass into .25-45 Sharps".

Otherwise I'd probably go , RCBS or Hornady FL sizing, Lee factory crimp, any of the 3 for seating, 

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9 hours ago, Albroswift said:

Ordered a sharps barrel, lite profile SS 16"

Do you use a special die to resize the 223 brass? Reason I ask is Sharps has a RCBS set that includes a die for sizing 223 into 25 45. 

"This .25-45 Sharps RCBS reloading dies includes a three die box, a full-length resizing die, a seater die, and a die to resize .223 brass into .25-45 Sharps".

Otherwise I'd probably go , RCBS or Hornady FL sizing, Lee factory crimp, any of the 3 for seating, 

That's the die set that I have - I just run the .223/5.56 brass straight through that RCBS resizer/deprimer die - and I have a necked up 25/45 case.  :thumbup:

Go SLOW in the first resizing - you don't JAM that handle.  Move slow, neck it up, and it's a smooth process - you don't need that "neck up" die that they include - eliminate that step, and die.  If you go too fast, and RAM that handle- you'll split necks.

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I still have a pile of .270 brass to send you....  :lmao:  I didn't forget.  I'm just slammed at work, and at home...  :laffs:

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I did run the pile through the tumbler already, though - they're ready to resize/deprime. :banana:  There's about 110 of them...  :thumbup:

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Is there a reason to tumble BEFORE de-priming? Will de-priming first affect anything with the tumbling, press fit on the primer or anything? Asking so I dont waste a bunch of brass by de-priming first.

Edited by suzukiray

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You run that grit-and-shiit after firing through your neck resizer.  That only erodes it.  Any range-pickups - in dirt - you run that dirt through your die.

Tumble it before you do anything with it.  Or, buy more dies later down the road, or, have problems with your reloads down the road - that nobody can figure out. 

You start the reloading process with clean brass...

Edited by 98Z5V

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Yup, most depriming dies also resize and you don't want the dirt in the die. I also tumble again after resizing to get the sizing lube off the cases. That's just me, some people don't.

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I deprime first but... I have a Lee decapping die mounted in an old single stage that  is only used for depriming.  I would never let dirty brass near the good dies or press.

I wet tumble with pins.

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Everything will get tumbled, I just wondered if there was some kind of issue with de-priming first. Didn't know if that would adversely affect anything with the process.

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1 hour ago, Cunuckgaucho said:

I deprime first but... I have a Lee decapping die mounted in an old single stage that  is only used for depriming.  I would never let dirty brass near the good dies or press.

I wet tumble with pins.

^^^This right here.  Use a universal decapping die first to only punch out the old primer.  The die body never touches the case.  Wet tumbling with pins, Dawn dish soap, and citric acid powder cleans the entire shell casing, including the primer pocket to a spotless shine.  Then start your resizing process whatever it is.

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54 minutes ago, suzukiray said:

Everything will get tumbled, I just wondered if there was some kind of issue with de-priming first.

Big issue - running that dirt over your die.  Tumble, clean, first.  You START the reloading process with clean brass.  Did I not state that before, Ray?...  :popcorn:

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I have a hand punch type de-primer, the cases never see any type of die till after tumbling, that's why my question was asked. Sorry if I wasn't specific enough in my process.

Edited by suzukiray

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6 hours ago, suzukiray said:

I have a hand punch type de-primer, the cases never see any type of die till after tumbling, that's why my question was asked. Sorry if I wasn't specific enough in my process.

same here. hand deprimer and a punishment cramp later.

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Basically I vibratory tumble twice,  first overnight Grit-o-Cob and Losso, then lube with Imperial, size and deprime, clean the pockets,  then couple more hrs in the tumbler to remove the lube. Thinking of getting one of the pin/liquid type drum tumblers, really like the finish results but messy. Still probably use the vibratory for the first step. 

 

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