darb Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Whatever's in my blast bin. Which happens to be old #80 ground silica. It wears down over time and is probably around #100 or #120 right now. I want to strip a black anodized upper and lower receiver. Can sand be used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) I want to strip a black anodized upper and lower receiver. Can sand be used? Blasting specific sand? Aluminum oxide, garnet, ground silica works best. BTW, you don't need to strip it completely. Enough to scuff up the hard anodize is sufficient. Edited August 29, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 I don't agree with that ^^^ - take it all the way down to bare metal for the best results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) I don't agree with that ^^^ - take it all the way down to bare metal for the best results. Just going by the training manual, page 6. "Hard anodizing does not need to be removed if it withstands 3-5 seconds of blasting at normal blast pressure (80-100 psi) in one location without coming off the part." Everything I've done so far stripped easily to bare metal. :) Edited August 29, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) And not one picture of any part in their training manual shows you a scuffed up part, man - not one... They show bare metal parts (if they're made of metal), hanging on wire, in prep for paint. Page 7, "properly racked lower receiver," is not a scuffed part, at all - that thing is white. You know that. I don't advocate scuffing the part, in prep for Cerakote - take it down to bare metal, if it's metal. Your finish will last a hell of alot longer if proper surface prep is done. Edited August 29, 2014 by 98Z5V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Blasting specific sand? Aluminum oxide, garnet, ground silica works best. BTW, you don't need to strip it completely. Enough to scuff up the hard anodize is sufficient. I sand blasted some ornamental wrought iron with 100 grit sandblasting sand, it was very fine. could I use the same type of sand or should I go with what you said above? Also the lower I have is a AR-15 80% which is from a friend whom gave it to me because he stepped up to the AR-308. He had some engraving done which I would like to remove. Will the sandblasting take that off or should I just leave it as it is not that bad of artwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 I sand blasted some ornamental wrought iron with 100 grit sandblasting sand, it was very fine. could I use the same type of sand or should I go with what you said above? Also the lower I have is a AR-15 80% which is from a friend whom gave it to me because he stepped up to the AR-308. He had some engraving done which I would like to remove. Will the sandblasting take that off or should I just leave it as it is not that bad of artwork. That sand should be fine. Removing the engraving depends on how deep the engraving is. The minimum 0.003" depth requirement by the ATF is already hard to sandblast off and most manufacturers willl engrave deeper than that to be safe from ATF scrutiny. Just as a benchmark, our automotive stuff is engraved to 0.001" depth and it's still not easy to sandblast off unless you hold it there for a good amount of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 That sand should be fine. Removing the engraving depends on how deep the engraving is. The minimum 0.003" depth requirement by the ATF is already hard to sandblast off and most manufacturers willl engrave deeper than that to be safe from ATF scrutiny. Just as a benchmark, our automotive stuff is engraved to 0.001" depth and it's still not easy to sandblast off unless you hold it there for a good amount of time. Do the ATF depth requirements of 0.003 apply to homebuilds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Do the ATF depth requirements of 0.003 apply to homebuilds? Only on the serial number (if any) plus any NFA specific markings. Homebuilds based off an unmarked 80% lower are not required to have any markings at all and if added later can be done with the owner's discretion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Only on the serial number (if any) plus any NFA specific markings. Homebuilds based off an unmarked 80% lower are not required to have any markings at all and if added later can be done with the owner's discretion. Thanks for the information. There is an eagle and a flag on the mag-well. If it is .003. would taking it down that much effect the integrity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamO Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) I am torn on this.... I'm really considering doing my .308 upper lower and FFT in tungsten grey. it looks sexy against black stock and pistol grip IMO... The devil on my other shoulder says leave it as a pure "evil black gun". Edited August 29, 2014 by AdamO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the information. There is an eagle and a flag on the mag-well. If it is .003. would taking it down that much effect the integrity? Not much. The thickness of that part should be 0.1" per spec so your're removing about 3% of the effective thickness. I am torn on this.... I'm really considering doing my .308 upper lower and FFT in tungsten grey. it looks sexy against black stock and pistol grip IMO... The devil on my other shoulder says leave it as a pure "evil black gun". Seen pics of Tungsten. It's sexy. I have it on my to-do list for one of the custom builds for one of the forum members. Edited August 29, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Not much. The thickness of that part should be 0.1" per spec so your're removing about 3% of the effective thickness. thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Finally... they match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.308LiteHunter Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Fine looking cookies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Another beauty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Any idea what the difference was, in applications? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) Any idea what the difference was, in applications? Probably thickness/spray volume (i.e. the knob that adjusts how much comes out). I think I went overboard on the quadrail the first time around. Edited August 29, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 I think I did that on Dawn's, too. I said I'd look at it again, but I haven't yet... <lmao> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 If I paint one of Ron's rifles, it'll show back up with a stamp in the underside... <hump> What's a little DNA between friends right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Armory Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 I think I did that on Dawn's, too. I said I'd look at it again, but I haven't yet... <lmao>You put it on too thick ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Armory Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Finally... they match. Shibi ... That's how's its done ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 You put it on too thick ! Went back and looked at it - it's fine. Shib's pics had me paranoid!!! :eek: <dontknow> <laughs> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) Went back and looked at it - it's fine. Shib's pics had me paranoid!!! :eek: <dontknow> <laughs> ann denn? Edited September 3, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 ..aaaaaaand DENN!!! I didn't strip it. I left it as-is. It's still white, and it's not any more shiny that the other stuff. That she wanted shiny. <lmao> I wanted it flat white, but she did NOT want it flat white. Change ratio away from flat white, mix, shoot, bake. She smiles, I'm done. Well, minus that 300BLK EOTech, anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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