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Bulk ammo?


lilmidtown

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Yeah, don't mess around with that steel cased $hit. Leave it for the commie rifles. I've shot a little out of one of my 10 carbines, and it ran fine, but that was basically just to burn up what I had on hand. And I've never bothered replacing it. That was early on, and it's been nothing but brass cased stuff since then. For blasting purposes, stick with some standard M80 like 98 said.

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On 2/22/2018 at 8:43 AM, lilmidtown said:

When I bought my armalite ar10 I was told not to shoot steel but any bulk ammo I found is steel or maybe I'm just confused basically what I'm asking is what bulk ammo can I buy that won't harm my firearm or myself haha thank you

https://www.sgammo.com/catalog/rifle-ammo-sale/308-win-762x51-ammo

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M80 or L2A2 are both NATO spec FMJ. They run about 145-150 grains, depending on the year they are manufactured. I have a shit ton of 147gr right now. 

You can shoot steel cased ammo fine. The mild steel case is not match for a quality built rifle. It’s the magnetic projectile you have to worry about... and even then, not so much.

Shooting 10 steel rounds is about the same as shoot 15 standard rounds. It does reduce the barrel life faster than copper, but the money you save will MORE than replace your barrel. You’ll save about $50 per 1k rounds. A barrel life is normally about 6k-8k rounds (depending on how you shoot). A barrel that shoots only steel will be about 4.5k rounds... at which point you will have saved over $200 and should have budgeted for a new barrel. 

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3 hours ago, Robocop1051 said:

M80 or L2A2 are both NATO spec FMJ. They run about 145-150 grains, depending on the year they are manufactured. I have a poop ton of 147gr right now. 

You can shoot steel cased ammo fine. The mild steel case is not match for a quality built rifle. It’s the magnetic projectile you have to worry about... and even then, not so much.

Shooting 10 steel rounds is about the same as shoot 15 standard rounds. It does reduce the barrel life faster than copper, but the money you save will MORE than replace your barrel. You’ll save about $50 per 1k rounds. A barrel life is normally about 6k-8k rounds (depending on how you shoot). A barrel that shoots only steel will be about 4.5k rounds... at which point you will have saved over $200 and should have budgeted for a new barrel. 

Thanks for explaining why this is embarrassing but I thought the the projectile couldn't be steel but I guess the casing is what's important

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6 hours ago, lilmidtown said:

Thanks for explaining why this is embarrassing but I thought the the projectile couldn't be steel but I guess the casing is what's important

The projectile isn’t steel as most people recognize steel. It is a polymetal, mixed with steel. Often the other metals included are tin and copper. The mixture is much softer than a pure iron based steel product. You can test your cartridges with a simple magnet to see if there is steel or not. 

Another issue with steel is the lacquer coating they put on the outside to preserve the metal. The lacquer coated cartridges were designed for the piston driven systems like the AK variants and all the HK and Steyr models. Our DI AR system dumps a lot of HOT gas inside the chamber. This isn’t an issue for standard brass casings. If you are an impatient shooter, the chamber can get hot enough to soften and possibly melt the lacquer. Cleaning it out isn’t an issue... but lacquer build up can cause loading/chambering issues until you can clean it out real well. 

 

My suggestion... FWIW... if you want to shoot a LOT of steel cases ammo... like thousands and thousands... build a dedicated, piston operated, firearm. The ammo isn’t accurate enough to waste a good barrel on. An inexpensive, but quality built, Faxon barrel will do absolutely everything. 

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51 minutes ago, edgecrusher said:

None. If so it’s all in your head. That or your more sensitive than the rest of us.

Lol

 

seriously though. It’s not much worse that the smaller format rifle. It’s a lot better than blasting an old bolt action rifle in the same caliber. 

The recoil and impulse of the rifle can be tamed after it’s been shot. New buffer, buffer spring, gas block, muzzle device... all possible modifications that can assist in reducing the kick. No two rifles are the same. It’s all about finding the “cocktail” that works for you and your rifle.

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1 hour ago, lilmidtown said:

Thanks to you all my FFL is getting the ammo for me so as far as shooting it's going to be my first time shooting 7.62-51 what's the difference as far as feel while shooting it 

I thought he was asking the difference between.308 and 7.62x51. My bad

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56 minutes ago, edgecrusher said:

I thought he was asking the difference between.308 and 7.62x51. My bad

Oh crap. Maybe? I didn’t even think about that. Might be MY bad. 

The 7.62x51 is slightly anemic compared to quality .308 win. Especially if you’re used to match 168gr or 175gr. Those little Mil spec 147gr just pop. 

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1 minute ago, Robocop1051 said:

Oh crap. Maybe? I didn’t even think about that. Might be MY bad. 

The 7.62x51 is slightly anemic compared to quality .308 win. Especially if you’re used to match 168gr or 175gr. Those little Mil spec 147gr just pop. 

I've been using 150 Hornady

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29 minutes ago, Robocop1051 said:

That’s my “go to” hunting round. I’ve killed a LOT of poop with that bullet, from rabbits to black bears. Great round!! You won’t feel a thing if that’s your usual round. 

Did you ever find the rabbits?...   :laffs:

Those fuckers are usually only made in FDE, like deer - and they're hard enough to find BEFORE you shoot them... :lmao:

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