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Carolina amunition

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1 hour ago, unforgiven said:

What's with the Nosler tip or any with a plastic tip

The polymer tip allows the projectile to fly like a full metal jacket, but act like a hollow point in the target. My experience is that they do wok as intended. FMJs tumble into a log and get stuck; where polymer tips typically make it explode, raining wood chips all over the place. I would expect similar results when hunting. 

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Didn't realize what you were asking; I've never had a problem feeding them. I presume polymer tips are tougher than a lead tipped projectile, meaning they would deform less in that process as well. 

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4 hours ago, shooterrex said:

 The real long distance shooters have some of the tips melting. Hornady eld's use a different polymer so the tips don't melt.

Hornady put that information out, when the ELD-M came out.  I don't know how they found it out, but that would be a tough job to determine...   At any rate, I use Hornady ELD-M projectiles in many different calibers, and they work.  They're accurate, and repeatable.  I've used the older Nosler 180gr .308 "white tips," in loaded ammunition, and they work, too.  I probably still have a box or two of those around here. 

Polymer tipped ammunition feeds just fine, and it's not even an issue.  Soft-point ammo is a different story.  If might feed, but catch a part of the barrel extension - and cut it.  As soon as you shoot it, it might go off target - like a fletch on an arrow sticking out.  I don't like soft-points through a semi-auto AR, for that reason.  Some don't feed worth a shiit, and jam worse than 36gr .22LR hollowpoints in a Ruger 10/22...

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  • 2 weeks later...

About 20 years ago, (seems like 20, did they have SST's back then?) after examining some lead tips I ejected out of my 338 WM BAR and seeing a lot of deformation I went to polimer tips, never looked back. Recently went to Barns poly tipped solid copper TTSX bullets, after seeing a lot of weight loss in bullets I was able to recover from game over the years. Haven't recovered a TTSX yet from anything big yet. Good velocities and tight SD's over the chrono. We run the ELD X in the 300 Weatherby, but probably switching over to Barns when we use the last of those up. 

Edited by Albroswift
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Brother, I've never payed a single penny for any .260 Rem ammo, as of yet.  I've never purchased any factory ammo.  I built my own from Hornady .308 Win Match brass, and buy the components, though.  That gun has never, ever been fed anything but handloads, it's entire life.

We need to get you into reloading.  :thumbup:

High price on 147 ELD-Ms would be $40 per 100 box.  40 cents each.  RL-22 Powder let's call $35 for a pound (7,000 grains in a lb, I'm loading 43.0gr per round = 162 rounds per lb.  $35 / 162 = 21 cents a round.  Primers = CCI 200 Large Rifle Primers at $32 per 1000 box, so 3.2 cents each.  I'm 40 cents + 21 cents + 3.2 cents per match-grade long distance loaded round.  65 cents per round, brother.

You can see how reloading equipment pays for itself pretty quickly.  If you have the brass, you're golden.

I turn the case necks down, exact, every single time I make a piece of .260 brass from Hornady .308 Match brass.  After that, I never have to do it again.  That gear was $100, one time purchase, and it came from KM Shooting.  I don't count that into the cost-per-round. 


Edited by 98Z5V
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10 minutes ago, Rsquared said:

Fuk. That reminds me. I gotta send you some RL22 and some projectiles for the fall shoot. After all, it's mid May already. October will be here before we know it.

Let's talk again first - RL-22 is a go, for sure.  We need to up that projectile weight to the 285gr Hornady ELD-Ms for your gun.  That's where the magic happens, brother...   :thumbup:

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