Photos of camouflage rifles

[RacerX]

If any of you have done up your rifles in camouflage, I would like to see photos of them.
I'd like to do a hunting rifle Cerakoted in camouflage and would like to get some ideas
of what I can/can't/should/shouldn't change the looks of, and also color combinations.

 

Thanks!

[jtallen83]

ATACS-U I think

Good old BDU before assembly

[Lonewolf McQuade]

Looks great @jtallen83

[dpete]

[Lonewolf McQuade]

9 minutes ago, dpete said:

Like those patterns 👍

[98Z5V]

 

[shooterrex]

[Cliff R]

Here's my 450 Bushmaster...

[RacerX]

I'm bringing this back up to the top to raise another question.  Some of you who responded have camouflage scopes.  Did you have them Cerakoted that way, use a wrap on them or just mask it off and paint it?

[dpete]

For me it was mask and paint it.

 

[shooterrex]

Mask and paint.

[98Z5V]

Same here, mask/spray with Cerakote.  I used the same oven-bake Cerakote on the scope as the rest of the gun, but I didn't bake it, just let it cure on it's own. 

[RacerX]

23 minutes ago, 98Z5V said:

Same here, mask/spray with Cerakote.  I used the same oven-bake Cerakote on the scope as the rest of the gun, but I didn't bake it, just let it cure on it's own. 

Oh, now that's interesting.  As far as the "cure" went, did you just let it sit at room temperature for x number of hours?
Do you think without baking it is less/same/more durable than spray paint?

[98Z5V]

Oven-cure (Cerakote H-Series) will cure on it's own, without oven-curing.  It's safe to handle (pick up and move) after 2 hours.  It's fully cured in 7 days.

I just leave things like that racked (wired up from hanging to paint them), and move them someplace in the house.  Even not baked, and only air-cured, H-Series is still hard as woodpecker lips.  No matter what kind of Cerakote you use (C, H, V, Elite), there's not a spray paint that can stand up to that stuff, anywhere.

[DNP]

He doesn’t oven bake. Just paints anywhere between February and October and leaves it outside for 15 minutes. 

[98Z5V]

   Truth... 

[DNP]

It’s a dry heat…

[Cliff R]

Something I do here to help cure the paint quicker and it also helps keep it from "running" if you get to close or apply to much is to put the item to be painted in front of a small 1500 watt electric heater for about 10-15 minutes.  The pre-heat also helps get moisture out of the pores of metal parts, especially those with a matt or rougher finish.  I've been using this procedure for decades to paint Marine carburetors here in the shop.  It's nearly impossible to end up with a "run" in the paint and it "sets" and cures much faster.......

[DNP]

^^^That’s a nice little tip. Thank you. 

[unforgiven]

16 hours ago, Cliff R said:

Something I do here to help cure the paint quicker and it also helps keep it from "running" if you get to close or apply to much is to put the item to be painted in front of a small 1500 watt electric heater for about 10-15 minutes.  The pre-heat also helps get moisture out of the pores of metal parts, especially those with a matt or rougher finish.  I've been using this procedure for decades to paint Marine carburetors here in the shop.  It's nearly impossible to end up with a "run" in the paint and it "sets" and cures much faster.......

Carburator I thought everything was fuel injection.

[edgecrusher]

47 minutes ago, unforgiven said:

Carburator I thought everything was fuel injection.

Actually it’s all about the ball bearings these days 

 

 

[Cliff R]

"Carburator I thought everything was fuel injection."

You'd be surprised.  I probably turn down at least half a dozen carburetor builds a day.  The phone just never quits ringing......

 

[unforgiven]

Money in your pockets brother 🍺🍺🇺🇸  

[98Z5V]

I'll take carbs over EFI every day of the week. 

Don't Complicate Shiit With Complicated Shiit...    I know you've heard that before...  

Edited August 31, 2021 by 98Z5V

[98Z5V]

On 8/29/2021 at 5:28 PM, Cliff R said:

Something I do here to help cure the paint quicker and it also helps keep it from "running" if you get to close or apply to much is to put the item to be painted in front of a small 1500 watt electric heater for about 10-15 minutes.  The pre-heat also helps get moisture out of the pores of metal parts, especially those with a matt or rougher finish.  I've been using this procedure for decades to paint Marine carburetors here in the shop.  It's nearly impossible to end up with a "run" in the paint and it "sets" and cures much faster.......

Never really thought about this in the Cerakote process, but it makes sense.  You "gas-out" the parts that you'll be Cerakoting, at 300* for an hour.  If you properly cleaned them before gas-out, it's ready to go, right to spray, on parts that were just 300*.  If there's any oil signs or oil residue (shiny spots, from oil moving) on the parts after gas-out - then they need to be cleaned again before spraying.  I'm sure the gas-out step is there to make sure you properly cleaned before spraying - but that hot-ass metal is gonna take the spray better.   Great info, Cliff.