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trouble getting scope square to bore


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Can't find a way to use my Wheeler scope levels to get my scope square to the bore of my LR-308.  Every time I think I have it I am off just a little.  I started using the levels when I had trouble with a bolt rifle.  Every time I would go up 2 or 3 clicks at 100 yards I would have to move right 1 click.  I can't find a way to use the magnetic base of the level on the aluminum (?) upper of the rifle and the top cap of the Athlon scope does not seam to be as flat as my other scopes.  I know that the longer the shot the more it will be off if I don't get it wright.  🥴🥴🥴

 Steve

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I am talking about when I look through the scope the vertical cross hare is not straight up and down through the bore of the rifle.  It is always just off a little left or right.  When  try to change it I go to far the other way.  I guess I will just have to keep trying to tweak it until I get it wright.  I have a 20 MOA mount and I can easily see the cant of the scope front to rear.    

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On 9/14/2021 at 8:11 PM, Steve crawford said:

I am talking about when I look through the scope the vertical cross hare is not straight up and down through the bore of the rifle.  It is always just off a little left or right.  When  try to change it I go to far the other way.  I guess I will just have to keep trying to tweak it until I get it wright.  I have a 20 MOA mount and I can easily see the cant of the scope front to rear.    

I know exactly what you mean from your description. It would be easier to help you if I could get a visual confirmation of what your hardware situation currently is, thus the request for a pic from the side. There's an incredibly easy way to level a scope perfectly square that physically prevents the scope from canting along it's axis while it's tightened down, but if you're not interested in helping me help you, I'll gladly butt out of the issue.

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On 9/14/2021 at 9:22 PM, Steve crawford said:

I don't know if these will help.  I sometimes have trouble explaining what I am trying to say.  The ring on the rear is not tight.  I use a torque driver to tighten the caps in a X pattern. I will tighten the rear ring when I get the scope aligned the way I want.

IMG_0509.thumb.JPG.1b1debbdfabc0947896fc3c1f5014620.JPGIMG_0510.thumb.JPG.db0ab758dd8eaa2299465d1333e1c237.JPGIMG_0511.thumb.JPG.d0cea881f32c1ca38cdcf531efc6afd7.JPG

 

Yeah, get you a set of adjustable parallels, they're very useful. Here's a link to my set:

https://www.amazon.com/PC-Adjustable-Parallel-Precision-Measurement/dp/B00D5EI0BE

They'll put you 100% square to the scope mount and the picatinny rail, and keep the scope from canting while you tighten it down.

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On 9/14/2021 at 9:58 PM, Steve crawford said:

Thanks  I understand what they do but I am not sure just where to use them for this application.   Sometimes I over think things.  Like you said, a picture is worth a thousand words.

   Steve

Oh, it's really simple:

1. Make sure the scope is just loose enough it will turn inside the rings.

2. Place an adjustable parallel of suitable size on top of the scope mount and just underneath the center section of the optic.

3. Adjust the parallel to it's fullest height under the optic and once the optic will no longer wiggle on its axis, tighten the scope mounts and remove the parallel.

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If you have the receiver level in the vice hang a string w/a weight in front of the rifle. Get the vertical cross hair even with the string and everything will be level. The string w/the weight is called a plumb bob and has been used for centurys to get stuff straight up and down

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I found this. 

I use the wheeler scope level and various other tell tale known level lines.. a fence, garage door pannels.. laser.. first and fore most  is to make sure the chassis is level. 

I have a sholder problem that also conflicts  with my cheek weld and (feel/look) straight. Longer range will tell as described in the video. 

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13 hours ago, shooterrex said:

If you have the receiver level in the vice hang a string w/a weight in front of the rifle. Get the vertical cross hair even with the string and everything will be level. The string w/the weight is called a plumb bob and has been used for centurys to get stuff straight up and down

This is what I used for laying out before laser's. Then you needed a heavy plumb to fight the wind. That's how I do my scopes also. What sometimes happens when you sung up the rings the tube will roll just enough to take you out of vertical. See how much it roll adjust accordingly. Torque hardware accordingly. Just my 2 mags

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as long as you don't change the elevation or windage settings it will work.  If you want to dial up the elevation for a long shot you also have to change the windage to match.  Then if you dial in an adjustment for windage you then have changed the point of impact on the elevation.  This has greater effect the longer the range of the shot.  Just what I have learned from the instructions that came with my Wheeler Scope Level Kit.     :embarrassed::embarrassed::embarrassed:

  Steve

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On 9/14/2021 at 6:22 PM, Steve crawford said:

 

IMG_0511.thumb.JPG.d0cea881f32c1ca38cdcf531efc6afd7.JPG

 

How tall are you?  Are you like a 6'9" Yeti or something?  If not, and you're a normal human, with a normal length-of-pull, you might want to move that scope forward, for proper eye relief.

On ARs (big or small), and normal-sized humans, you usually want that scope eyepiece just about at the end of the charging handle or upper receiver.  That thing is back about a full inch from that - and that WILL affect you, in shooting-for-realz.  It won't affect you at all, in hypothetical-land, though. 

You have the mount too far back, and you've got the scope all the way forward in the mount.  Move that mount forward, and reset everything.  You need to level the scope, anyway.  It'll treat you better in the long run.

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On 9/16/2021 at 11:10 PM, 98Z5V said:

How tall are you?  Are you like a 6'9" Yeti or something? 

Hey mister watch it!   :evil:    I resemble that remark.:laffs:  Or at least I'm close  6'6".   Even I have my scopes set at about where you are talking about.

As can be seen by this old family picture. 

IMG_4424.thumb.JPG.aca19ad6b96eaf146dbcd12b1bca0dfd.JPG

 

As far as getting the scope square and level to the rifle I do as many others have already said.

Place rifle rest on table.

Place rifle in rest and get it level using a wheeler bubble level.

Hang a plumb bob in a well lit area and while the rifle stays perfectly level align the vertical crosshair with the plumb line.  If that plumb line is slightly stretched and not touching the floor or swinging, it has to be perfectly level.

 

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