Anyone camo their AR?

[buttonbuck]

I've seen a couple of decal kits and am not too keen on them if I do it I'd like the look of paint.  That said I have the worst artistic talents of anyone here hands down.  My gun spends 99% of it's time in the woods and while I can't say for sure it matters I do think stark black stands out.  I was able to wrap my bolt gun in a soft camo wrap which looks great, but just too many areas left undone with a wrap on a AR frame.  Hoping maybe someone here has had the same concerns and muddled through it.  Would love to see whatcha came up with.  I guess the nice thing about a cheap rattle can approach is ya mess it up, cover it up and start over!  I already have a bunch of Rust-o-Leum camo paint from painting stands and climbers I just need inspiration and TALENT.  Thanks guys

[blue109]

Primary arms sells some nice stencil kits.

[98Z5V]

I did a sponge-camo job on the Savage FV-SR.  Came out great. 

More details in this thread:

 

Edited April 15, 2017 by 98Z5V

[buttonbuck]

I sure like that.  I did my 308 bolt up in a soft camo wrap it's held up really well I sat in several rain storms towards the end of rifle season.  Just doesn't work out right on an AR though gotta get paint in there on the intricate areas.  

[sketch]

An airbrush kit is pretty cheep these days.. and its cammo so no artistic skill required? Plus it makes small mistakes, not big ones where you have to start over..

I say that as im waiting for the lgs to finish my paint on the 458. He is either doing a really awesome job or hes scared

[Magwa]

Yeah I have just about concluded that rattle cans or a sponge or rag are the way to go you can,t fuk it up it is camo...

[dpete]

What is used to prep an AR to give the paint the best chance of staying on?  I'm thinking of doing a camo job on my 300BLK SBR and suppressor that may or may not have grease/soot on surfaces to be painted.

[blue109]

I used a Rust-Oleum high temp primer on 2 guns and it's held up well. No other prep outside of a good cleaning.

[392heminut]

2 hours ago, dpete said:

What is used to prep an AR to give the paint the best chance of staying on?  I'm thinking of doing a camo job on my 300BLK SBR and suppressor that may or may not have grease/soot on surfaces to be painted.

You'll need to use a very high temp paint on your suppressor or it will eventually burn off.

[dpete]

5 minutes ago, 392heminut said:

You'll need to use a very high temp paint on your suppressor or it will eventually burn off.

The suppressor has a titanium tube and end caps so even high temp grill paint doesn't stick too well.  I have a can of Aervoe Coyote brown from a project I never used it on and intended on stripping the suppressor and using it as a base coat over everything.  Maybe I should strip the old black paint off the suppressor, repaint it with the same high temp black as a base coat then the Aervoe over it?  How temperature resistant is Aervoe?

[dpete]

Ok, I google-foo'd my own answer.  From the Aervoe website.

 

(view larger image)

 

Extremely durable camouflage paint to U.S. Military colors.

• Designed to U.S. Military Designated Field Coloring standards and 595 Federal Color Specifications
• Matte and semi-gloss finishes
• Dries to a tough, hard finish
• Resists corrosion and abrasion
• Will not chip or peel under harsh conditions
• High-hide enamel
• Performs at temperatures up to 300°F (149°C)
• Not recommended for immersion surfaces

Applications:  metal, wood, plastic, vehicle restoration, weapons, and hunting and camping equipment.

 

[392heminut]

I have two SD Tactical homebuilt suppressors with titanium tubes and I used Plastikote's Ultra High Temp Hot Paint on both of them and it has held up really well, it is rated to 1500 deg. If yours already have paint on them I recommend you bead blast them clean. Wipe them down two or three times with a solvent (I used naptha) and don't handle with your bare hands. The paint needs to be cured according to directions on the can to hold up properly, three stages of heating and cooling which can be done in your home oven (preferably when your wife is NOT home!) The last stage calls for something like 600 deg. but home ovens don't go that high. I just set mine on max and left the stuff in there for an extra 30 minutes, seems to have worked pretty good.

Another option that has worked really well is Cerakote's air dry coatings. It takes a week or so to fully cure but is very resistant to high temps.

[dpete]

Mine is a SD tactical too.  The black is already off, spray on paint stripper does wonders.

[bubbas4570]

13 hours ago, Magwa said:

Yeah I have just about concluded that rattle cans or a sponge or rag are the way to go you can,t fuk it up it is camo...

I'm with him!!!^^^^^

All one needs to do is break up the outline.....darken brightness, lighten the shadows.....everything else is good salesmanship.

[MikedaddyH]

16 hours ago, bubbas4570 said:

I'm with him!!!^^^^^

All one needs to do is break up the outline.....darken brightness, lighten the shadows.....everything else is good salesmanship.

Like this ?????

[dpete]

1 hour ago, MikedaddyH said:

Like this ?????

There has to be one in every crowd!  

[bubbas4570]

Not quite, but that is right up my humor alley!!

[Magwa]

[NTXshooter]

Here's what I did (before and after) with the Primary Arms Digicam stencil and Aervoe paint.  The nice thing about the PA stencil is that it is flexible silicone and easy to clean.

 

 

[98Z5V]

DAMN!  That came out GREAT!!!  

[shepp]

That's sexy!!

[Magwa]

 Damn that is HOT......you almost can,t see it that is well done!

[NTXshooter]

Thanks.  I do highly recommend the PA stencils.  You can find them on sale for about $10.  The problem is finding the paint.  I think Aervoe has stopped making some of the military colors.

[unforgiven]

That's my project for the summer. I have the PA stencils and Aervoe paint from these guys : https://dsgarms.com/ae1076

[GRA]

Now that is indeed impressive.  You did a great job.  My compliments.