Matt.Cross

There's no wrong choice there, I'd personally base it on ammo availability right now. I think you'll have less trouble finding good 300 Win Mag ammo than you will good 6.5 Creedmoor, but if you reload that's all a moot point.

It would be a lot easier if they'd start arriving in pairs. This one kid every 2-3 years stuff is taking forever....

I'm trying to figure out in what universe this would be considered an undesirable side effect....

I have the TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. An incredibly accurate and smooth rifle. Beautifully engineered and well executed in it's design, it's a masterpiece of form and function. I highly recommend it.

You're absolutely right, ripping up squirrels with a saw would be unethical. That's exactly what the minigun was for, handling any over-aggressive tree rats that might take exception to the modification of their natural habitat.

That's a good idea, more useful working load, and can have a door gunner man the Dillon minigun, just in case some squirrels get out of hand, or something....

Let's do it, I got some bushes getting out of control in my yard....

I'd love to do his job!

I love my shirt brother!

I don't know that your issue has a single cause, but I DO know that you've found and can correct a significant issue. When you have the right length gas tube, it'll end at or very near to the center of that cutout.

That's a great photo, your gas tube is well shy of the center of the cam pin relief cut.

Quantify for me where it should be going and why. Bear in mind, this is not the standard AR platform, so I'm not interested in the old wives' tales from the standard AR side of things.... Where does the brass need to go, and more importantly, why?

As it will likely be done in either a drill press or by hand with a drill, I don't recommend a carbide bit, standard high speed steel bits will work just fine. Don't get them from Harbor Freight though, you don't want to try to remove pieces of drill bit from your barrel. Buy a single numbered standard HSS bit from your local hardware, use a suitable cutting oil and a hand drill and go slow, letting the bit do the work. Midrange on the RPMs, nothing crazy, mild pressure for the drill. It will follow the existing hole and the burr in the bore will disappear with the next shot that goes downrange. Easy peasy.

Have never heard of them and they aren't a current site partner, so can't vouch for them.

it turned out to be a function mismatch in a build that had run thousands of rounds reliably previous to adding the heavy buffer. simply put, I wouldn't recommend it to complete a functioning gun. however, if somebody already had a functioning gun and they were interested in the flat wound spring, I'd recommend trying it.

I probably shouldn't have used the word "standard" so casually, I've come to think of the Armalite recoil spec as the industry standard, as it's what works across the board. However, as Tom has already stated, I'm using Clint's excellent "heavy" buffer, which reduces the recoil impulse to the extent I can follow my shots through the optic.

I ran a Tubbs flat wound for years with no issues. There's nothing wrong with them. They simply don't work with some other things, like Enidine hydraulic buffers, which also don't work with anything else. My Tubbs flat wound also didn't play well with my heavy buffer, so there's that too. Standard buffer worked like a charm with it, no issues at all.

I'm concerned about you....

This. Don't care what they want to regulate anymore. They can take a long walk down a short pier.

Fried squirrel is a treat! Love me some tree rat with tree rat gravy....

Methinks based on prior data, that gas port needs to be between .093" and .097".

Welcome!

I saw that, not a great start to 2023. I hate it for his family, he just built a car with his teenage kid...