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Pistols and Revolvers


Albroswift

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These .40s are not fucking around - that's alot of force for a blowback pistol-cal AR.  You chipped your lower receiver at the top - because something hit it. Something being the back of the gas key?  You flatten that buffer bumper so bad that the gas key hit the top of the lower?

WTF happened there, bro?

I'm absolutely certain that all these .40 PCC manufacturers are just saying "you can run standard AR PCC parts in these!" and that's just not the case.  That round - doesn't fuk around.

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Anyone been having problems with stovepipeing in a Colt .45ACP 70 series Govt. model ?

I bought some Winchester .45 ACP at a LGS and at the indoor range I got several stovepipes, lots of smoke and black soot.  I tore the slide down and checked the extractor, it was okay.

Now before I go take a coil offen the recoil spring , do you think it could have been the AMMO?  I usually have been using Federal or Remington without problems but don't have any more except that Winchester stuff. I do have another recoil spring probably a 22#.

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When reloading smoke and soot are typically indicators of under pressure rounds. Maybe the Winchester is a reduced recoil load?  45's are a finicky breed, full power 230 gr ball ammo 1.265 - 1.275 COL always works, every gun I've tried it in, every time. Every thing else may work fine, may not, depending on the pistol.  If it was me, I would try different ammo before messing with the recoil system, even if you get it to function, you still have smokey sooty rounds.

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8 hours ago, mrmackc said:

I do have another recoil spring probably a 22#.

The ONLY reason you would need a 22# recoil spring in a 45 ACP 1911 is if you're running hot handloads like the bowling pin shooters do! I've never ran anything heavier than an 18# spring and have often ran 16# springs. I run 12# or 14# springs in my 40 S&W 1911 and STI 2011 in 40 S&W.

Also, Albroswift is correct, smoke and soot are good indicators of low pressure rounds.

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I have the original spring in the pistol, don't really know the weight of the spring, just know it never failed to feed or cycle and fire before I used the Winchester ammo, I bought 200 rounds of it, the lot numbers showed the ammo to be manufactured in 2005. The new 22# spring came in a trade it is a Wolfe spring, I may as well get a new set of 16, 18, and 20# springs and see what will work, All of my hand loads are fairly mild.

Thanks for the comebacks guys, I've been shooting 1911Colts a long time and never experienced any problems with  230 Grain Ball or the semi-wad cutter rounds I swadged and sized when I was shooting my old NM Gold Cup, that is long gone in a trade. I picked this Govt model up used for a daily carry 20 years ago it has never been ramped for wadcutters, so I doubt it has shot anything before except factory ball ammo , just put on the Green Crimson laser grips,  and was sighting it in.

Edited by mrmackc
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Mild handloads are fine with the right powders. You probably know most /all of this but I like talking reloading

Just need enough pressure to:

1. Inflate/ seal the brass to the chamber

2. Get a clean burn

3. Cycle the action- after achieving 1 and 2 here is where I would  start messing with different springs, but usually don't need to unless going uber lite. 

I have had good luck with Titegroup for medium recoil auto loads,  leaves a gray coating on the crown but burns clean at medium recoil loads. There are a lot of other powders that fit the bill as well.

My medium 45 load is

4.5-4.7 gr Titegroup

230 gr Xtreme round nose 1.265 COL

4.5 gets a little under 700 fps in the Kimber Ultra Carry 4.7 gets a little over 750 fps in the full sized. manageable recoil and accurate. And economical. 

Cleanest powder I've used is VV3N37 in autoloaders but need to load mid to upper end. (Costs more and uses more, but clean and snappy) Clean up with dry patches. 

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